hp port.... it is fixed...
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Do you ever use a mallet to hit the wrench to breakup the crystals?Here's what you do. You need some tools and maybe a clamp, so if you don't have that, it won't help you. But it might help others and IMO it's better than a vise for holding 1st stages.
Basically what you are going to make is a long skinny box (cage, really) out of 1X3 lumber. The interior chamber of this box needs to snugly fit the body of your MK20/25 (whichever it is, so roughly 4" long by 1.25"--take your own measurements!). Then you slip the body of the reg in this box, with the DIN fitting sticking out. Then clamp the box to a workbench, and you will be able to apply enough torque to the fitting with a 6mm allen key socket and a decent size socket wrench, without marring up the regulator as can happen in a vise. SP DIN fittings are supposed to be torqued to around 20-22 ftlbs, which is pretty tight but not like lug nuts.
If that doesn't work, then you take every port plug out, the HP seat carrier out, and the turret off, and remove all the parts and o-rings you can, basically leaving the DIN fitting on the body. Then you put that in the freezer for several hours, then in simmering water for an hour or so, back in the freezer, back in the boiling hot water, and eventually you will be able to get that DIN retainer loose.
What sometimes happens is the threads on the DIN retainer get some salt water in them, the owner does not soak the reg well in fresh water after diving, the salt dries in the threads, and whammo it's stuck. This is where the freezing (which shrinks everything) and boiling water (which penetrates the threads) can help.
Use it anyway you want.I thought this can only be used with a vise!
As has been mentioned, use the HP ports. The tool comes with both LP and HP threads. Remember, these are NPS treads and most regulators are plated brass. The tool should be fully seated so that the flat is tight against the regulator. This will prevent any thread distortion that could be caused by just using a bolt in that brass. Don't use a steel bolt.One thing worth noting is that all of MK25's LP ports are on a swivel.
Do you ever use a mallet to hit the wrench to breakup the crystals?
Tapping the Allen wrench with a hammer is a great idea. It's how impact drivers work. In fact, there is a handheld impact driver that is driven by a hammer that I use often. There's a bit of skill and a short learning curve in using it, but I find it invaluable with things don't want to budge. They're inexpensive and will help prevent buggaring up the hex inset.No, but I have put a block of wood on the end of retainer and given a few sharp taps with a hammer.
Yeah, it should always be kept in mind that when it comes to reg repair, we're working mostly with plated brass, which is pretty soft. Even worse, a lot of it is hollow, so it's easily damaged. If fit correctly, o-rings don't need a lot of torque to seal and they are almost always given a groove. When you achieve metal-to-metal contact, just give it a small skootch to lock it in place. This is true for tank valves down to hose fittings.Lots of enthusiastic, weight lifting strong men out there with wrench sets.
Or go to harbor freight any buy a small vice?Why not just get a DIN to Yolk adapter?