OP
Intova 3W LED Dive Light?
- Thread starter D_B
- Start date
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Ya, The New Luxeon K2-TFFC is little expensive than other LED with same Lumen level, such as Cree and Z-power LED. But still good for mod. For the final light beam and pattern should be same as original.
I had never try to take the Heat Sink out and replace the driver inside
, coz I think 700ma is good enough with a longer run time and not to push the LED too hot.
I had never try to take the Heat Sink out and replace the driver inside
, coz I think 700ma is good enough with a longer run time and not to push the LED too hot.
OP
Just noticed that you can adjust the beam spread a little bit by twisting the head of the light (like a MAG light)
from about a 15" hot spot, with head fully bottomed out, to about a 12"-13" at 4m/12' distance, by backing it off about a 1/4 turn
from about a 15" hot spot, with head fully bottomed out, to about a 12"-13" at 4m/12' distance, by backing it off about a 1/4 turn
OP
Updated pics ..
The heatsink is threaded into the body and uses an O ring seal or spacer at top ...
Circuit board is under heatsink and slides out after removeing LED Star from heatsink and unscrewing sink from body, holding wires/star from turning .. be carful of green ground strap wire on edge of board, heatsink butts up against it and mine came loose turning heatsink and will require me to re-solder it to board
White paste on back of LED Star is computer CPU thermal paste I applied to help conduct heat from LED to heatsink, I also will apply some to the threads of heatsink to better conduct heat from sink to body of light
Note: don't have a heart attack when you've reasembled the light after soldering wire back on and it doesn't work :11: ... First check to see if you put the black circuit board holder 180* around, with board away from magnetic switch ... DOH! :doh:
The heatsink is threaded into the body and uses an O ring seal or spacer at top ...
Circuit board is under heatsink and slides out after removeing LED Star from heatsink and unscrewing sink from body, holding wires/star from turning .. be carful of green ground strap wire on edge of board, heatsink butts up against it and mine came loose turning heatsink and will require me to re-solder it to board
White paste on back of LED Star is computer CPU thermal paste I applied to help conduct heat from LED to heatsink, I also will apply some to the threads of heatsink to better conduct heat from sink to body of light
Note: don't have a heart attack when you've reasembled the light after soldering wire back on and it doesn't work :11: ... First check to see if you put the black circuit board holder 180* around, with board away from magnetic switch ... DOH! :doh:
HenrikBP
Contributor
D_B: Very cool pictures. Thanks for keeping us updated on your progress. I'd be right behind you if I could only get the light unscrewed .... <headshake> I'm starting to sound like I have 10 thumbs, but I'm usually a pretty decent wrench ... honest ... 
I think the light is quite bright - certainly brighter than my UK Q40 eLED. But I'd like to change the circuit board for one that provides different light levels. Something like one of these might work:
$3.99 16 modes in 3 group 7135 Regulated 1A 17mm Circit (16 modes in 3 group)
$4.99 1.2A output Li-ion 1.2A 7135 LED Regulated circuit (3 modes)
The first one lacks reverse polarity protection.
Anyway - the light has so far stood up to bench vise, strap wrenches, pipe wrenches, heat gun and me trying trying to wring it's neck with my bare hands and sticky toolbox drawer liner. Boeshield X-9 and PB Blaster has had no effect either. Problem is that whatever I use on the light body, my grip slips. Head is clamped tightly in the vise and not moving.
It looks to me like the 2 slots cut inside the light body may be the key. I'm guessing they may use these during assembly??? If I can make an aluminum strap that would engage these slots for a good length I may be able to get enough of a twist on the body to separate the two.
Getting exited about modding this light. I think Intova may, unknowingly, given us a great platform to work from.
Henrik
I think the light is quite bright - certainly brighter than my UK Q40 eLED. But I'd like to change the circuit board for one that provides different light levels. Something like one of these might work:
$3.99 16 modes in 3 group 7135 Regulated 1A 17mm Circit (16 modes in 3 group)
$4.99 1.2A output Li-ion 1.2A 7135 LED Regulated circuit (3 modes)
The first one lacks reverse polarity protection.
Anyway - the light has so far stood up to bench vise, strap wrenches, pipe wrenches, heat gun and me trying trying to wring it's neck with my bare hands and sticky toolbox drawer liner. Boeshield X-9 and PB Blaster has had no effect either. Problem is that whatever I use on the light body, my grip slips. Head is clamped tightly in the vise and not moving.
It looks to me like the 2 slots cut inside the light body may be the key. I'm guessing they may use these during assembly??? If I can make an aluminum strap that would engage these slots for a good length I may be able to get enough of a twist on the body to separate the two.
Getting exited about modding this light. I think Intova may, unknowingly, given us a great platform to work from.
Henrik
OP
Thanks for the links
I will measure the circuit board but I'm pretty sure the smaller 1A one will fit, but the 1.2A one will not (switching is going to be another issue, magnetic switch is just visable in cutout in circuit board module ... maybe adapt/transfer it to new board?)
Grooves in side of body are to index two tabs on the bottom of the circuit board module (one of which is visable in pic) there is a step machined into body just out of view in last pic, grooves go thrugh it .. but maybe could be helpful in getting a purchase to turn body?
I will measure the circuit board but I'm pretty sure the smaller 1A one will fit, but the 1.2A one will not (switching is going to be another issue, magnetic switch is just visable in cutout in circuit board module ... maybe adapt/transfer it to new board?)
Grooves in side of body are to index two tabs on the bottom of the circuit board module (one of which is visable in pic) there is a step machined into body just out of view in last pic, grooves go thrugh it .. but maybe could be helpful in getting a purchase to turn body?
Hello HenrikBP
I had tried the multi mode drivers as you mentioned to another light.
The Maxium input is 6V only!!. May be too high, and sometime the driver get crazy( not Stable)
I Used this driver finally. DealExtreme: $6.44 3.6V~9V 800mA Regulated IC Circuit Board for Cree and SSC LEDs (4-pack) to another flash light. The driver will give 800-1000ma above 7V, So one can use the 3.7V rechargeable.
Oh!. The Head is not Screwed in and no key inside I just pull it out so hard.(by using 2
wrench and rotate left and right to shake it out.)
Wish you good luck.
I had tried the multi mode drivers as you mentioned to another light.
The Maxium input is 6V only!!. May be too high, and sometime the driver get crazy( not Stable)
I Used this driver finally. DealExtreme: $6.44 3.6V~9V 800mA Regulated IC Circuit Board for Cree and SSC LEDs (4-pack) to another flash light. The driver will give 800-1000ma above 7V, So one can use the 3.7V rechargeable.
Oh!. The Head is not Screwed in and no key inside I just pull it out so hard.(by using 2
wrench and rotate left and right to shake it out.)
Wish you good luck.
OP
:huh: Mine is most definitely screwed onto the body, and you can see the threads in the pics
Thanks for the link, 16mm ... that looks like it would work, I will measure the opening of the body
Thanks for the link, 16mm ... that looks like it would work, I will measure the opening of the body
OP
ahh, gotcha
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