International warranty - purchased from US, warranty repair in Australia?

[uniqueloginname]

Hello,

I bought an MV Octopus from the USA together with a Rover 2s first/second stage and imported them into Australia.

I am very happy with the first/second stages, however I have noticed the octopus free flowing at times during dives, which was tolerable, however tonight it began constant free flowing for most of the 1 hour+ dive, so I guess there is something wrong with it. The regs were purchased in November 2012 and I have only done about 12-15 dives with them.

I plan to take a closer look tomorrow, but assuming I can't get it to settle down, can I get this checked out under warranty in Australia?

Thanks for your time.

Mark

 

[OkByMe]

I don't know about the warranty, but I might suggest that if it was fine when you started and now is free,flowing, you might have some sand in it. A lot of divers just let the octo hang and sometimes drag the bottom. Set your regulators up on a tank near a sink with 5-6 inches of water in it. Turn the octo mouthpiece up and start to submerge it, if it starts to free flow before the mouthpiece opening gets under water, it is ether adjusted too sensitive or there is something between the lever and the diaphragm. Try pushing in on the purge button all the way several times while under way and shaking it back and forth to dislodge anything inside. If no joy, you may have remove the diaphragm cover to check that.

If the reg is clean, and still FF, remove the hose and look inside. Hopefully there is a slotted or allen screw. If so, turn that clockwise just a smidge and reconnect the hose. Submerge the reg again. For an octo, the mouthpiece opening should go just under 1/4"-1/2" before free flow. In my opinion, a slightly hard to breath (subjective) octo is way better than one that free flows since it can jeopardise YOUR safety. Anyone who needs it is going to be glad to have it, even if it is not perfect o. The other possibility is that the octo, being new, is loosening up at the lever hinge point and contact with the back of the diaphragm making it more sensitive. You will still need to adjust it.

 

[redacted]

Without checking the IP and knowing what it is doing. how do you know whether to work on the octo or the 1st stage?

 

[OkByMe]

Without checking the IP and knowing what it is doing. how do you know whether to work on the octo or the 1st stage?

Been my experience that if IP creep is the issue, then both (all) seconds would would burp - OP did not say both were free flowing. There is a possibility that the first is breaking in and that the IP has a slight rise causing the octo to free flow if it is clean and in need of slight adjustment..

 

[redacted]

Been my experience that if IP creep is the issue, then both (all) seconds would would burp - OP did not say both were free flowing. There is a possibility that the first is breaking in and that the IP has a slight rise causing the octo to free flow if it is clean and in need of slight adjustment..

Unless IP is really out of control, then only one 2nd usually starts to leak (free flow). That would be the 2nd stage that is most sensitive to the IP rise. The FF occurring with the octo rather than the unbalanced primary does suggest the blame may be the octo but an IP check would point to the culprit before making possibly unnecessary adjustments.

 

[Couv]

Master Awap is correct (he always is) in that the more sensitive second stage will freeflow first and may relieve over pressure IP before the less sensitive second stage has a chance to freeflow. If you do not have an IP gauge, try this simple test. Remove the second stage that is freeflowing (in this case the octo) and plug the port. Hook back up to a tank and check to see if the primary now freeflows or burps. If not, then chances are a simple adjustment to the octo is all that is needed per OK's instructions.

 

[uniqueloginname]

Hi all, thanks for the information, I really appreciate it.

Sorry, I neglected to mention that the primary reg (2nd stage) has often free-flowed as well, but is always stopped by turning it upside down when under water, which I thought may be fairly normal (most hire regs I used did this). Also, as I am always breathing off it, it did not seem like a practical problem.

But now it sounds like the 1st stage might need an adjustment?

I don't have any tools or experience for servicing regs, but am willing to try the things that I can (especially cleaning the octo). Luckily I have a few hundred PSI left in the tank.

(Edit: I guess if it's a 1st stage adjustment required, rather than "servicing", my LDS could probably do this at a reasonable cost. Happy to hear options though.)

Thanks again.

 

[redacted]

Hi all, thanks for the information, I really appreciate it.

Sorry, I neglected to mention that the primary reg (2nd stage) has often free-flowed as well, but is always stopped by turning it upside down when under water, which I thought may be fairly normal (most hire regs I used did this). Also, as I am always breathing off it, it did not seem like a practical problem.

But now it sounds like the 1st stage might need an adjustment?

I don't have any tools or experience for servicing regs, but am willing to try the things that I can (especially cleaning the octo). Luckily I have a few hundred PSI left in the tank.

(Edit: I guess if it's a 1st stage adjustment required, rather than "servicing", my LDS could probably do this at a reasonable cost. Happy to hear options though.)

Thanks again.

The problem you describe is typical of IP creep which is caused by the HP seat not sealing properly with the orifice. It is not corrected with an adjustment, although that might buy you a little time. It is probably time for a good cleaning and service.

 

[uniqueloginname]

OK thank you awap. At only 6 months old with not many dives, it's clearly a defect, so I'm back to needed to know from Mares whether they will look at this under warranty. At least I have more idea of which part may be the problem.

 

[redacted]

While a defective seat is a possibility, such a problem may also be the result of getting SW inside the 1st stage and the resultant deposits and corrosion (verdigris). I expect the route you will have to take is to have a Mares dealer look at it and decide whether the repair, or part of it, is covered under warranty. If it is an HP seat problem, I would expect you might get free parts but will have to pay the labor charges. And you have little choice but to take their word for what the problem is. Unfortunately your dealer and the manufacturer/distributor have you by the short hairs and are in full control.