OP
Jonny Wishbone
Contributor
Awesome...purge the reg several times and make sure it just locks back up at the same IP (140) and you are good to go with the first stage..
HP Seats
- Thread starter Jonny Wishbone
- Start date
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My surface interval of 28 years, 7 months, 13 days, and 30 min. is over. And I dove on the exact same gear with the exception of the replaced regulator seats and diaphragms and a new tank. I also had the addition of the Dacor 360 I rebuilt on a 30cf pony.
It's great to be back enjoying the other 2/3 of the earth's surface!
It's great to be back enjoying the other 2/3 of the earth's surface!
Not sure if you have any thoughts here but I thought I would ask. The situation is that some vintage high pressure seats can not be sourced. Can the HP seat material be removed and replaced with suitable material. I'll use Dacor as an example. I bought a bought an EBAY Dacor 300. The HP seat is actually in excellent condition. I purchased some Flex-it 90 polyurathane rubber (resin + activator). I have applied several test thin applications on some scrap steel plate. The material dries to the consistency of hard rubber (my intent). I bought a Durometer. I forget the value but its up there.
1. I removed the roll type push pin, performed a light polish on the seat face leaving minute brass scratches. The original seat material remains. I mixed a drop of the liquid rubber on a flat surface and applied a very thin amount across the entire seat face including the brass face. Allowed to cure 48 hours.
2. Remove the cured rubber from the seat hole into which the push pin fits. Used a 1/16 drill bit and a needle to remove the rubber core.
3. I Inadvertantly removed some material so that the roll pin goes into the seat too far. I replaced the roll pin with a steel pin of the correct diameter just long enough so that the pin support (looks like a mushroom and touches the rubber diaphram) is probably 1/8" higher enabling the HP seat to be opened by the diaphram.
3. Put the regulator back together, applied ~1500 psi. Adjusted the intermediate pressure to around 150 psi. Second stage breaths well. No leakage.
I plan to cycle the regulator a couple of hundred times, take out the seat, and examine with a jewelers eye piece. Assuming the nozzle did not cut the rubber covering, I plan to scratch out all HP seat material, recoat, install, and see what happens. One question: Given that I damaged the pin depth stop in the HP seat, can I assume that a replacement pin sufficiently long enough to raise the mushroom pin stop approximatey 1/8 " is acceptable? I can understand a pin which is too short. NO air. Qualitatively it feels like the mushroom pin stop travel is the same as it was before. Can't find any design criterial regarding matching an HP seat and push pin.
Finallly, I have no plans to get in the water with this. If someone would let me get into a swimming pool, I would try it.
Comments?
Thanks,
John
1. I removed the roll type push pin, performed a light polish on the seat face leaving minute brass scratches. The original seat material remains. I mixed a drop of the liquid rubber on a flat surface and applied a very thin amount across the entire seat face including the brass face. Allowed to cure 48 hours.
2. Remove the cured rubber from the seat hole into which the push pin fits. Used a 1/16 drill bit and a needle to remove the rubber core.
3. I Inadvertantly removed some material so that the roll pin goes into the seat too far. I replaced the roll pin with a steel pin of the correct diameter just long enough so that the pin support (looks like a mushroom and touches the rubber diaphram) is probably 1/8" higher enabling the HP seat to be opened by the diaphram.
3. Put the regulator back together, applied ~1500 psi. Adjusted the intermediate pressure to around 150 psi. Second stage breaths well. No leakage.
I plan to cycle the regulator a couple of hundred times, take out the seat, and examine with a jewelers eye piece. Assuming the nozzle did not cut the rubber covering, I plan to scratch out all HP seat material, recoat, install, and see what happens. One question: Given that I damaged the pin depth stop in the HP seat, can I assume that a replacement pin sufficiently long enough to raise the mushroom pin stop approximatey 1/8 " is acceptable? I can understand a pin which is too short. NO air. Qualitatively it feels like the mushroom pin stop travel is the same as it was before. Can't find any design criterial regarding matching an HP seat and push pin.
Finallly, I have no plans to get in the water with this. If someone would let me get into a swimming pool, I would try it.
Comments?
Thanks,
John
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