How to properly attach gear for streamlining?

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Devon's got the right idea, I think, and he looks pretty sleek. Just to nitpick a little, Devon, you could shorten your corrugated hose quite a bit and maybe your regulator hose as well.
That looks like one of the older Halcyon stainless steel inflators -- they are very negative and hang down but really not that much.

You can find a fantastic gear configuration here.
 
Part of the reason I am posting is to find out if all this is needed. I also only have what was required by my LDS for the training I am doing.

It may be required for the individual dives, but not every dive. For recreational diving, I consider the following to be 'standard':

1x Deployable Surface Marker Buoy (DSMB) i.e. A safety sausage that should be able to retain the air you put into it on ascent and at the surface. Ideally, they should be closed or semi-closed.

1x Finger Reel of 30-25m lengths, with Stainless Steel Double Ended Bolt-Snap.

1x Small Dive Knife. Make sure it is sharp and capable of cutting monofilament line.

1x Whistle. For signalling at the surface.
1x Small Torch. LED bulbs and AA battery powered.

Other stuff is dive specific according to the plan. Bigger torches, slates (instructional, maps, deco info, fish ID), tools (wreck dives),lift bags, redundant depth/timers, emergency signalling DSMBs.... etc etc etc
Not sure if I have a DSMB. I have a 6' safety sausage but from the decription of DSMB I do not think they are the same. I bought a small (3-4") Deepsee knife which attaches to my BC via gromets.

Some divers refer to a DSMB as a safety sausage - but normally a 'sausage' is nothing more than a glorified plastic bag, incapable of holding air at the surface and liable to leak at any time. Given that this is an emergency device (signalling, ascents in shipping areas, ascents in currents/drifts), then I wouldn't skimp on this equipment. I find the smaller sized (3ft) 'closed' DSMBs, that use oral inflation, to be ideal for me diving in the tropics. In rougher waters (back in the UK), I would use a larger DSMB...normally the semi-closed ones that you fill by exhaled air from the reg.

Any brand of knife is sufficient, although I prefer titanium ones as they hold their edge. Get some monofilament (fishing) line and make sure you can cut through it underwater...this is a good test of a blade.

Hmm, my clips for my octopus and console and plastic clips. Although I am considering removing the octopus one and going to the bungee method mentioned above. I will look into making a console attachment using what you said though.

I use these clips for everything. Once you've mastered the knot required they take 5 mins to attach to your kit and are permanent (unless you want to cut them free). They cost no more (often less) than the silly, fancy ones that you can buy in dive shops.


I like this idea since I hated the thought of everything dangling off of me.

That's a good principle to stick with...be ruthless with your kit. :D


I have a dive computer but was carrying a depth gauge and SPG in the case the computer fails. I would have to ascend but I could keep diving using those, a timer, and my tables. Although maybe I should go to a SPG only and keep the dual console in a save a dive kit or something.

If you are only doing recreational diving, then you are unlikely ever to need redundant depth, time or air gauges. If anything malfunctions, then you will immediately call the dive, ascend and do a safety stop. As you'll never be over a no-deco limit...you can always count on that direct ascent to the surface.

If you want to dive again...then 'technically' you'd be breaking the rules if you ignored your dive computer manufacturers recommendations (normally, they say sit out of diving for 24 hours). However, you'll always have your buddy to provide max depth for the dive - plus you should be aware of your own max depth for the dive and (after failure) you won't be going any deeper will you? And you should always know your descent time (I hope)...so you can still try your luck at planning subsequent dives on tables.....but chances are that if you are repetitive deepish (18-30m) diving on a computer, you may be well over table limits anyway.


Well, having read the standards, it would be allowed (as would primary donation techniques)...but the difficulty arises from not being configured in the same way as my students - no chance of convincing my dive resort to buy long hoses for all the students... :shakehead:
 


He may have to have a snorkel which is nuts but maybe a requirement when he is instructing. Were I him, however, I'd get a folding one and stuff it into a pocket, then use the long hose.


That long hose (7ft) is the best for sharing air. 5 footers aren't quite long enough. ( yes, personal experience )
 
He may have to have a snorkel which is nuts but maybe a requirement when he is instructing. Were I him, however, I'd get a folding one and stuff it into a pocket, then use the long hose.


That long hose (7ft) is the best for sharing air. 5 footers aren't quite long enough. ( yes, personal experience )

Yes, go straight to a 7ft hose, even in open water. I had a low/ooa situation in the Cenotes (hose failure), but it was still in the cavern, and the Guide (who was full Cave), offered his 5ft hose. All was well, but I took a few fins in the face that a 7 ft hose would not have given me. The 5fter was restrictive let's say.

All the best,
Geoff
 
As always great feed back!... I bought zip ties and sea clips. Just always remember that what you clip on now you may need to unclip underwater. Just make sure you can do that with gloves on! preference Is always different from people. I tried many different ways and hence the zip ties if you dont like that idea snip the zip and try another. I tried a few different things basically tral and error. Accessable and comfortable Is what you want. If you need It in a hurry you need to get at it. Good luck and Happy Diving
 
As always great feed back!... I bought zip ties and sea clips.

What's a "sea clip"?


Just always remember that what you clip on now you may need to unclip underwater. Just make sure you can do that with gloves on! I tried many different ways and hence the zip ties if you dont like that idea snip the zip and try another.

But can you "snip the zip" and then "rezip the zip" with gloves on, while undewater, while task loaded, without cutting yourself, your gloves, or your gear?
 
No sorry, I meant as you experiment setting up your gear at home, locating and placement, use the zip ties. Once you think you have a decent set up, put your gear on minus suit for say and see how it fits you and if the locations are accessable. If not try other postions. Sea clips are the clips like a hook with the spring loaded button you slide downward to open the hook. ( may have the name wrong) the other end of the clip has a swivel and loop you can use to zip tie to equipment. You dont want to have to make any major adjustments underwater. Thats why trying this out at home is better. Sorry I didn't explain it well enough.

Example..
I use a sea clip zipped tied to my cobra 2 computer on the side where It hase holes for clips. I then clip the Sea clip to my BCD ring on my upper left strap. I tried it in a few places but here i can slightly tilt it and review the screen without having to reach down grab the unit lift up etc. It is more streamlined and doesnt drag bump or rock all over. It took a few tries and thats where i like it best. This is just one example, I tried it at home then in a pool and thats it.
 
Sea clips are the clips like a hook with the spring loaded button you slide downward to open the hook. ( may have the name wrong) the other end of the clip has a swivel and loop you can use to zip tie to equipment.

Bolt snap...

480110LR.jpg


Pass on the zip-tie attachment. Go for "cave rigging" in order to ensure optimal attachment and lower likelihood of breaking either the zip-tie and/or damaging the gear it's attached to:

spg-clip2005.jpg
 
Great thanks Is this the same rope strenght line on the reel tech divers use?
 

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