How do you rig and use your doubles?

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

Yes, the Hp 80s really are the perfect setup for me. If you want to do some 200' plus dives, they really don't have the capacity to this safely, or at least with any kind of real bottom time. I happen to be averse to doing long deco hangs though. So for the kinds of dives I like to do (175' or shallower) the HP 80s really are the perfect. Also, they allow me to do two recreational level dives without having to change my set up. I'll post some pictures tomorrow.
 
Yes, the Hp 80s really are the perfect setup for me. If you want to do some 200' plus dives, they really don't have the capacity to this safely, or at least with any kind of real bottom time. I happen to be averse to doing long deco hangs though. So for the kinds of dives I like to do (175' or shallower) the HP 80s really are the perfect. Also, they allow me to do two recreational level dives without having to change my set up. I'll post some pictures tomorrow.
Nice !!
yeah i wont be diving 200' or deeper anytime soon but its good to know i can comfortably go beyond rec limits with the HP80's....
thanx ryanT
 
Hey dvrdv: Yes, I fought with this for a while. I started out with a set of HP 100s. The length of those was perfect for suiting up on the boat, but they were stupid heavy both in and out of the water. I find the 80s so much more manageable all the way around. I'm posting the pictures of the block here. It's just two 2x6s screwed together. You can use a single 4x4, but I like the added width of the 2x6s. I put a coat of stain and spar urethane on them to just help reduce weathering in the salt environment. The only thing to remember with the block is that you can't put it under the tanks on the boat ride out, the tanks will slip out from the base. You just put the block under the tanks at the dive site when you get ready to gear up.
IMG_0286.JPG
IMG_0289.JPG
 
Hey dvrdv: Yes, I fought with this for a while. I started out with a set of HP 100s. The length of those was perfect for suiting up on the boat, but they were stupid heavy both in and out of the water. I find the 80s so much more manageable all the way around. I'm posting the pictures of the block here. It's just two 2x6s screwed together. You can use a single 4x4, but I like the added width of the 2x6s. I put a coat of stain and spar urethane on them to just help reduce weathering in the salt environment. The only thing to remember with the block is that you can't put it under the tanks on the boat ride out, the tanks will slip out from the base. You just put the block under the tanks at the dive site when you get ready to gear up.
View attachment 384415View attachment 384416
Nice!
great solution ryanT! The HP80's look great . Do the bands stay stable on the tank boot? Any problems with leaving the tank boot on? If i could leave the boot on that would be ideal cuz i can lower the top band a little more so the valves arent hitting me in the back of the noggin....
 
Yes, the bands are stable on the boots. I hear some folks saying that you should be knocking the boots off your tanks to ensure that you don't get corrosion under them. I've never done that. I've always just given my tanks a good freshwater rinse with a hose and then follow that up with a soaking in a big tub. With that said, taking the boots off and rinsing before an extended storage is probably not a bad idea. You could easily take the bottom band and boots off while leaving the top band in place. That would prevent the tanks from wobbling and damaging the manifold.
 
Yes, the bands are stable on the boots. I hear some folks saying that you should be knocking the boots off your tanks to ensure that you don't get corrosion under them. I've never done that. I've always just given my tanks a good freshwater rinse with a hose and then follow that up with a soaking in a big tub. With that said, taking the boots off and rinsing before an extended storage is probably not a bad idea. You could easily take the bottom band and boots off while leaving the top band in place. That would prevent the tanks from wobbling and damaging the manifold.
Ah so!
thanx again ryanT for your help....
I'm really stoked to assemble my double set HP80's and get em in the water for some test drives!
 
Hey dvrdv: Yes, I fought with this for a while. I started out with a set of HP 100s. The length of those was perfect for suiting up on the boat, but they were stupid heavy both in and out of the water. I find the 80s so much more manageable all the way around. I'm posting the pictures of the block here. It's just two 2x6s screwed together. You can use a single 4x4, but I like the added width of the 2x6s. I put a coat of stain and spar urethane on them to just help reduce weathering in the salt environment. The only thing to remember with the block is that you can't put it under the tanks on the boat ride out, the tanks will slip out from the base. You just put the block under the tanks at the dive site when you get ready to gear up.
View attachment 384415View attachment 384416
That's a purdy long inflater hose ya got der.
 
That's a purdy long inflater hose ya got der.

Yes it is. When I had this wing rigged with a different harness and set of tanks it didn't hang down so far. I'll be replacing it with a shorter hose before my next dive.
 

Back
Top Bottom