Hissing sound when valve is open (I changed the o-ring already)

[BRT]

Replacing parts that might be bad is not troubleshooting. Do you have a Sherwood regulator with a rubber plug in the first stage? Those leak and are supposed to.

 

[Kairoos]

Replacing parts that might be bad is not troubleshooting. Do you have a Sherwood regulator with a rubber plug in the first stage? Those leak and are supposed to.

Why not? Any better ideas? I don't have any. I have a Zeagle Flathead LT and an Oceanic CDX5 (I think on that one).

Changed the oring on the DIN/yoke insert and that fixed that issue.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

 

[uncfnp]

Why not? Any better ideas? I don't have any. I have a Zeagle Flathead LT and an Oceanic CDX5 (I think on that one).

Changed the oring on the DIN/yoke insert and that fixed that issue.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

now you need to put the hex key and spare o-rings in your save-a-dive kit

And I don't like any leaks I can prevent so even though its slow I would change out the inlet/tank o-ring the next fill.

 

[spectrum]

Do not over tighten the insert. Tightened lightly it will be square in the valve. If you torque it tight it wlil tend to skew in the threads and I have had difficult sealing when this was done.

Pete

 

[Bob DBF]

Replacing parts that might be bad is not troubleshooting. Do you have a Sherwood regulator with a rubber plug in the first stage? Those leak and are supposed to.

Well it is troubleshooting, but not necessarily very productive, logical, or cost effective.

Sherwood regs with the dry bleed will slowly bubble air when pressurized, but they do not hiss when working properly. Off the top of my head it bleeds around10cc per minute.

Bob

 

[Kairoos]

Well it is troubleshooting, but not necessarily very productive, logical, or cost effective.

Sherwood regs with the dry bleed will slowly bubble air when pressurized, but they do not hiss when working properly. Off the top of my head it bleeds around10cc per minute.

Bob

Not sure where you got regulator from. My regulators aren't the problem here, nor do I own a Sherwood regulator. The valve on this tank is made by Sherwood and that is what I was having an issue with. It was the o-ring on the DIN side of the DIN to Yoke adapter that was causing the issue. Brought the tank to my LDS and they changed the o-ring, dunked the tank and tested it, and charged me nothing for it.

 

[BRT]

Sorry guys. Troubleshooting is what I've done most of my life and replacing parts because they are likely failure points is not troubleshooting. Sometimes we do that when there is no reasonable way to test things. Troubleshooting would be using a water bath or soapy water to figure out where the air is coming out of. Or you could "troubleshoot" it by replacing the tank and the reg with new ones. That usually fixes the problem but it isn't troubleshooting.

 

[divad]

I'll bet he even has one of those underwater flashlights.

Bob

Hot Damn!!!

---------- Post added December 18th, 2015 at 12:25 PM ----------

another issue was discovered that there is an extremely, extremely, extremely slow leak coming from between the tank and valve.

I had one like that and the solution was to file the neck flatter. DiveGearExpress did it for free as part of their VIP. The "other" fill place wanted 35 bucks to file it (although that price was not from management).

 

[kr2y5]

Sorry guys. Troubleshooting is what I've done most of my life and replacing parts because they are likely failure points is not troubleshooting. Sometimes we do that when there is no reasonable way to test things. Troubleshooting would be using a water bath or soapy water to figure out where the air is coming out of. Or you could "troubleshoot" it by replacing the tank and the reg with new ones. That usually fixes the problem but it isn't troubleshooting.

That's an appeal to authority, a logical fallacy... any reduction of uncertainty about the root cause potentially helps to identify it. If replacing a suspected part eliminates symptoms, it helps to reduce uncertainty. If the part was cheaper to replace than the time one would otherwise invest in an alternative troubleshooting technique, you can also argue it was cost-effective.

 

[Bob DBF]

Not sure where you got regulator from. My regulators aren't the problem here, nor do I own a Sherwood regulator.

I was directly responding to BRT, not to your original question again.

BRT
Troubleshooting is what I've done most of my life and replacing parts because they are likely failure points is not troubleshooting. Sometimes we do that when there is no reasonable way to test things.

Which is a way to test things and would be considered troubleshooting.


Bob
---------------------
Who has been fixing all manner of things for over 60 years.