Has anyone tried the new UK C8 eLed PLUS?!

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

jeckyll:
I'm eventually going to get a salvo (especially now that we have someone locally who carries them) but that wasn't in the cards at the time.

Who's carrying salvo lights locally?
 
I'm going with the greenforce so I know I have something reliable. I have seen and heard enough about these lights to realize the reliability of them. 30W HID should be plenty of light :D

I think the D8 is brighter as I've dove with lots of people with light cannon's. The only thing I like about the light cannon is the more focused beam and the whiter light colour.
 
S. starfish:
Who's carrying salvo lights locally?

Richard at Divetank.com has them now. Recent addition.
 
What about some basics for a guy who's getting ready to buy a first light?

Which handle is better and why?

I saw one light on the scubatoys website that had 2 bulbs and you could switch from one to the other if the first one burnt out. Wouldn't that be like having a primary and backup in one light? Sounds like a good thing.

Understanding that 'more is better', is there a minimum amount of brightness you should look for in a primary light?

Some were negatively bouyant...is that also a good thing? Don't need to offset a positively bouyant light by adding weight to your belt...

Thanks.
 
What kind of diving are you doing? There are such a wide variety of lights available it is hard to suggest minimums without knowing your needs. Pelican makes a nice variety of lights as does UK and a handful of other companies. I have really falled in love with the dive rite handheld HID. It is a relatively affordable handheld HID at just a litle more than the cost of a normal light, much less than normal HID's. I sell a good many different lines but so far as handheld lights go love the dive rite for handheld and the salvo for a can light.
 
I didn't care for the Diverite handheld. Don't want the aluminum body and also [think] that I would prefer a pistol grip.

The C8 eLED has the interchangeable handle and a lot lower cost. It has 2 bulbs and...

I'm guessing that 'low' uses one bulb and 'high' uses BOTH bulbs...but I could not find any documentation that said that...

But if that's true, then it would be like having 2 lights, right? If one bulb burns out, you should be able to tell that, which leaves you one working bulb (like a backup light) and then you call the dive.

Sounds like a nice light...the cannon, I'm sure, is better, but for less cost I can get a good light and a knife...

I would like to do some wreck diving, easy penetration stuff for the time being, or maybe shining the light in from the outside of a wreck...not doing any tech/cave diving or professional diving.
 
having a backup bulb is a good idea, but if your batteries die, or the light floods, you still need a backup. This is of course assuming you're doing dives where you actually "need" a light.

Dive with some buddies and see what kind of lights they're using. Generally if you're diving in darker waters, buy whatever you can afford.
 
Jeckyll said:

What is interesting, and not necessarily intuitive, is that an in-water stop with a relatively rapid ascent rate appears to be more effective at eliminating inert gas than a very slow ascent rate.DAN on Deep Stops

Jeckyll, I just came across this the other day. I find it fascinating. I printed it out and have read it several times already.

I am new to diving (for the second time) and will be full swing next summer. For the winter, I will be getting to know my new gear (see the Christmas thread), reading, researching and learning.

I have been through the rock bottom pressure planning and plan to use that in my diving. But now I am considering adding another safety stop at half the deepest depth, per that article.

I haven't figured out all the details yet...but I [think] the idea is to figure out how long an ascent time you need to offgas enough nitrogen to prevent bubbles from forming after reaching the surface.

According to the article, the relative tissue compartments are the short half-time ones...and the example they used of a 100' dive for 25 min and looking at the spinal column (which has a half-time of 12.5 min) was very enlightening.

I will be trying to figure out how to calculate the ascent time actually needed. For example, suppose you went to 100' but only stayed for 15 min instead of the 25 min the example used?

Maybe this should be moved to the physiology or general discussion forums as a new thread?
 
NJMike:
I didn't care for the Diverite handheld. Don't want the aluminum body and also [think] that I would prefer a pistol grip...

I would like to do some wreck diving, easy penetration stuff for the time being, or maybe shining the light in from the outside of a wreck...not doing any tech/cave diving or professional diving.

If you're planning on doing penetrations, even simple ones and you plan to go with a hand held light you'll want to avoid using pistol grip as it makes managing a reel very difficult. I'd recommed a UK light cannon, they're relatively inexpensive, HID, and you can get 'em with a lantern grip. The only thing is that the new ones seem to have fineky switches.
 
But I think the Canon is alot more money...but I'm more interested in why the pistol grip would not work in a penetration. I've never used either a light or a reel, so I am imagining (at least, trying to imagine) what it would be like.

The reel is used to let out a line so that you can follow your way back? How does the light handle style affect that? Is using the reel a two handed operation?
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

Back
Top Bottom