Halcyon STA-less BP / Wing Questions

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metridium once bubbled...
When I add or remove the cambands, it means I'm switching between Pioneer and Explorer wings.

Since I don’t have both Pioneer and Explorer wings (insert jealousy here) that is not an issue for me, unfortunately. But I still think I would bolt the Pioneer wing on, how much trouble are two bolts? Also, when and if I get enough training to need doubles and can afford them, I think I would buy an extra back plate anyway so that I didn’t have to switch them back and forth. Compared to the cost of the wing, tanks, manifold, bands, and additional first stage, the cost of an extra Fred-T plate and harness would not be that significant.

Mike
 
I guess the extra bolts wouldn't be much trouble, though in my case the whole thing is complicated by the P-weight I use for saltwater single-tank diving. I've just never had any problems without the Pioneer bolts and haven't seen the point of adding them yet.

I know it's a trivial matter, but I wanted to learn something today.

:wink:
 
I've never tried this, but it might be worth a shot if you're concerned about scratching your tank: you can purchase liquid vinyl "tool dip" at a hardware store (I don't recall what the name really is--I've always called it "tool dip" because we'd dip tool handles in it). You could try dipping the carriage bolt heads in the vinyl. When it dries (a few minutes), the vinyl is reasonably soft and probably won't bung up the tank.

The obvious drawbacks are: (1) the vinyl will hide the bolt head, so you can't check for corrosion if the vinyl doesn't seal around the shaft; and (2) it will push the tank out a bit farther.
 
metridium once bubbled...
the whole thing is complicated by the P-weight I use
Your p-weight has recesses on the back for nuts~n~washers so go ahead and feel free to use the flathead machine screws with washers and nyloks to hold the wing in place.

It is actually much better than just using the cambands to hold the wing in place... unless you seldom move the rig from tank to tank.
 
I've been diving strictly doubles since Mukilteo, and don't have my gear here for reference. Sorry if I'm a little fuzzy on the details.

What I meant by "complicates" is that it's a different - and rare - configuration, so it's apples and oranges in comparison to what the others are talking about. Securing seemed almost mandatory with the P-weight, but I never noticed the need without it.

I'll have to find new bolts for the P-weight, as only one of the pocket bolts would fit - the harness brad renders the upper bolt unusable.
 
metridium once bubbled...
I'll have to find new bolts for the P-weight, as only one of the pocket bolts would fit - the harness brad renders the upper bolt unusable.
not sure what you mean by harness brad...
but if you need greater clearance for nuts go ahead and counter sink a hole on the back... it can be done with a drill press and forsner wood working bit. If you don't have access to that... just use a chisel and hammer and enlarge the recess.

Come to think of it... I believe I used the T nuts that come with Halcyons plate packs on the wing side... and a carraige bolt on the plate side... size the bolts so that they don't stick out and touch the tank.
 
Uncle Pug wrote...

not sure what you mean by harness brad...
The point where the harness is permanently attached to the top central section of the BP. It's also the upper bolt hole for doubles.

I'll definitely do something along those lines for when/if I go back to using the Pioneer.
 
from the harness webbing at the top attachment point. It adds thickness that the bottom does not have, and causes the tank to sit away from the internal STA at the top, more or less pivoting on the top bolt. I also switched to stainless flathead machine screws with acorn nuts to finish it off. Positioning the plate on the tank is easier now, and it is more stable.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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