Gopro or go different...?

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

@Blackcrusader I have the same dilemma. Looking for option to film but also take pictures. I understood that lights are very important. Which angle is suggested?
 
@Blackcrusader I have the same dilemma. Looking for option to film but also take pictures. I understood that lights are very important. Which angle is suggested?

My lights can be moved and are on ball mounts. It's only when super close as few centimeters away that I need to turn the lights inwards. My Big Blue 4200P are wide angle 120 degree lights. Some people take very good macro shots with a small torch with low power.
 
Thx. I did that before with my sony cybershot. :). How is your focus at low ligth conditions? Or do you use them at full power. Do you have example pics?
 
Thx. I did that before with my sony cybershot. :). How is your focus at low ligth conditions? Or do you use them at full power. Do you have example pics?

There is this thread. Big Blue lights are adjustable so when doing super macro I often use the lowest power setting. I do use them on full power for some daytime video's and photos.

This on 25% power

This on 50% power

This on 50% power

This on a night dive I forgot what power level
 
Thx. I did that before with my sony cybershot. :). How is your focus at low ligth conditions? Or do you use them at full power. Do you have example pics?

For low light photos this Peacock Mantis in a hole. I used 10% power on a day dive as I wanted to not light up the cavity.
I think it's pretty close to what I saw with my own eyes. One of the few photos where my jpeg and orf file looked the same.
The Tiger Mantis was a day dive with low visibility at 27m depth. Also to get them to come to the top of their hole drop some rubble down as they like a clean environment. TM won't come up if my video lights are already on. So I have to wait for it then make sure I am facing away then turn my video light to low power I think 25% for this shot.

The sea horse head taken at 26m depth on a dark day dive as well. Also with these creatures I always use low power when close up.
The Sea Moth is super macro and you can see the shadow my lights on 10% power make. You can actually see a tinge of blue as the lights are so gentle the illumination just reaches the Sea Moth.

Being in focus is often a game of patience, and also pressing the shutter until the green focus square appears, then taking the photo.
On many TG6 photos people just press the shutter snapping the photo and the camera is not focused on what they are taking pictures of. Please note I take photos and if good enough print some of them up and put them around my house for vacation memories.


MANTIS HIDING.jpg


TIGER MANTIS DARK.jpg


A SEA HORSE HEAD.JPG


SEA MOTH CLOSE UP.jpg
 
I had problems with my GoPro Hero 10 overheating so I returned it and purchased the DJI Osmo Action 3 as all of the reviews that I looked up on it show that it does not overheat easily I will let you know once I have a chance to actually use it.
 
For low light photos this Peacock Mantis in a hole. I used 10% power on a day dive as I wanted to not light up the cavity.
I think it's pretty close to what I saw with my own eyes. One of the few photos where my jpeg and orf file looked the same.
The Tiger Mantis was a day dive with low visibility at 27m depth. Also to get them to come to the top of their hole drop some rubble down as they like a clean environment. TM won't come up if my video lights are already on. So I have to wait for it then make sure I am facing away then turn my video light to low power I think 25% for this shot.

The sea horse head taken at 26m depth on a dark day dive as well. Also with these creatures I always use low power when close up.
The Sea Moth is super macro and you can see the shadow my lights on 10% power make. You can actually see a tinge of blue as the lights are so gentle the illumination just reaches the Sea Moth.

Being in focus is often a game of patience, and also pressing the shutter until the green focus square appears, then taking the photo.
On many TG6 photos people just press the shutter snapping the photo and the camera is not focused on what they are taking pictures of. Please note I take photos and if good enough print some of them up and put them around my house for vacation memories.


View attachment 754811

View attachment 754813

View attachment 754814

View attachment 754816
For the seahorse . Is it possible to give me the settings for iso,apperture and shuttertime. Do you like to shoot with small depth of field and how is your experience with the tg? I am used to nikon d300. Have friends which shoot with omd.
 
I have the Osmo Action (OG) and it's great for everything except Macros. Great contrast and colors up in resolve very easily. Does 4k 60 well, so still very good and now can be found for super cheap.
 
I have the Osmo Action (OG)
NASA also liked the Osmo so much they put a heavily modified version on the Artemis mission. Said they had to glue down the chips because of vibration, but they like the colors and camera so much they chose it to fly to Mars. Pretty impressive, just like the colors in your videos!!
 
I have the Hero 4 and the Hero 10. The 4 took brilliant videos but I had a hard time keeping it steady enough and bought the 10 for the motion correction features. Which work better than the 4, but are not perfect...at all.
BUT the 10 routinely overheats and shuts down after 15 minutes or so. Insanely annoying. I wish I had returned it.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

Back
Top Bottom