Glo-toob flood?

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Here are some nice links about Glo-Toobs. There is some concern with people mistaking the on/off switch for the cap screw, which can lead to flooding if you fiddle with it underwater. The cap can also be improperly threaded, leading to flooding.

Old but very informative article. This convinced me to buy the things.
http://ledmuseum.home.att.net/glo-toob.htm

Reports on flooding problems.
http://www.scubadivinguniverse.com/glotoob.html

Back in 2003, we had a decent thread on Glo-Toob problems. It's a good read.
http://www.scubaboard.com/showthread.php?t=18930
 
There are actually 2 o-rings in the cap. One in the outer portion
that you can see and one inside the pin switch that you can't see.
(See picture)
I'm wondering if some of the flooding issues are failures of the
pin switch o-ring especially on the FX model which can
get alot more use due to the programming.

I lubed both of mine and immediately noticed that the pin switch
turns alot easier/smoother.
I haven't tried mine yet so we'll see if it makes any difference.

To remove the pin switch simply remove the split ring
and screw the switch in until it comes out the bottom.
It is a bit tough to get that last little bit, and yo will need
fingernails.

--- bill
 
I have a half dozen of these little FX beauties (intended as gifts) that I'll take down to about 110' tomorrow.
I will report Saturday.
Rick
 
What's the allure of the FX model? Are buddy teams differentiated by their flashing pattern? That would be cute.
 
Archman, using a flash mode will extend battery life. You can also set the light to constant-on with "low power" which also stretches battery life. The "low power" mode appears to be a very rapid series of flashes, so fast that they blur together and your eyes see them as uninterrupted light. The off-time between flashes adds up to less battery drain, and longer life. You can see this my swinging the light on a cord. You are getting very sleepy....
 
Rick Murchison:
I have a half dozen of these little FX beauties (intended as gifts) that I'll take down to about 110' tomorrow.
I will report Saturday.
Rick
I lied... I forgot to take 'em with me. Maybe next time.
Sorry.
Rick
 
bperrybap:
To remove the pin switch simply remove the split ring
and screw the switch in until it comes out the bottom.
It is a bit tough to get that last little bit, and yo will need
fingernails.

--- bill

bill, could you elaborate. what's the split ring? when i try to unscrew the pin it goes to a certain point and then stops. i could use force to unscrew it even further, but I'm afraid I'll break it since it seems to me further unscrewing was not intended.

by the way, i lubed the my fx's o-ring (the main one) and then used it on a shallow night dive. worked fine, but the o-ring was tricky to get out and even trickier to put back in. basically it doesn't go back in immediately, so i screwed the battery compartment lid in anyway as far as i could with the o-ring in place loosely and then tightened it before the dive. by the time i got back from my weekend diving the o-ring had slipped back into place.
 
I didn't take mine out when I lubed it. Figured that I would chew it up getting it out and then it would flood for sure.

The split ring that bill is talking about is the "key ring" that is on the switch post.
 
I have the glo-tube FX, currently I don't use it.. but would llike to to get away from the glow sticks. I have been using the tube for a year.. when the battery died, I went to glow sticks....now I want my tube back :p...lol
 
I just checked the Glo-Toob website and noticed that they come with 3 different caps: a push-button cap (not waterproof), a waterproof cap, and a Scuba cap. All the Glo-toobs I've ever seen in diving retail have the waterproof ones, not the scuba ones. My hunch is that this explains the many floods people keep reporting. The problem is whete to get one with the scuba cap?
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

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