General advice to new scuba divers: do not waste your money!

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I believe, from my experience, that the majority of LDS personnel "push" what they believe is best for the customer exactly like what people here on SB do to those that come in here and ask for advice. Most folks here on SB "push" what they have been using because they think it is the best for them and thus others should use it too, not much different from people working at an LDS, just look at the SW cult clan here. These "devotees" to SW, push the over $1000 computer to people who are better served with a $300 dive computer.
The problem with most $300 dive computers is the RGBM algorithm. There are a few choices that provide Buhlmann ZHL-16c besides Shearwater.
For those that object to LDS using the "life support equipment" line, many of you use the "getting into technical diving in the future" to justify their advice to buy very expensive dive computers or other equipment just because they are using it and push the others to use it. Different words, same motive and result.
BP/W are typically cheaper than jacket style BCDs. A harness is a harness. If one wants a "deluxe" harness and wants to do so inexpensively, they can buy the parts in their fabric store and take the webbing to a shoe repair shop and finish for them (my local shoe shop charges $6 a stitch).

The difference in backplates is all about machine time (as that is what is expensive) and sometimes finish (the Deep 6 BPs have the most attractive finish/logo). Wings vary on material, but just like a jacket style BCD, it will last an incredibly long time if properly maintained. If something breaks, then only that component needs to be replaced. It is cheaper to replace a wing than it is to replace a BCD. To replace a harness is incredibly cheap with new webbing.

For divers that need a significant amount of weight due to exposure protection (including bioprene), having weight on ones back is a nice way to distribute weight. We can argue whether one dives a balanced rig, or ditches weight at depth or the surface, but having some weight is certainly a plus. There are ditchable pockets. I think Hollis has the nicest system for both ditchable and nonditachable weight, but that's just starting to approach overpriced BCD prices.
 
"Splurge on the regulators -- everything else is f**king window dressing," was the most sage diving advice that I had ever received; and I still believe that -- followed closely by "don't piss your suit."
While it's not terrible advice in general, this thread was also targeted at brand-new divers who don't know the difference between a good regulator and a bad one, or what all the features even mean. "Throw money at the problem" is how a lot of brand-new divers may see this advice, when in reality there are ways to more wisely spend money.

(I'm perhaps being a little nitpicky here, since I agree with most of the post).
 
If one wants a "deluxe" harness and wants to do so inexpensively, they can buy the parts in their fabric store and take the webbing to a shoe repair shop and finish for them (my local shoe shop charges $6 a stitch).
You can also get comfort-pads from ebay, which can go on existing harnesses, premade for $20.
 
When I’m at 40m I’m not thinking “man this reg isn’t breathing well”, I’m thinking “look at the pretty fishies!”
That's nitrogen narcosis, heh, heh, heh -- that, or 'crazy eye" . . .

 
Is this thread correct?
 
Can someone explain the idea behind buying expensive regulators?

I get the parts availability argument, but are they really any better performing than a cheap set for recreational dives?

I bought the cheapest I could from my lds after my dacor ones became unserviceable and have had them for 7 years without an issue. Pretty much all my diving is in the ocean in temps from 12-20 degrees and down to 40m max. It’s never had any noticeable issues.

For arguments sake, say I spent $300nzd on my set and a top of the line set is $2600 nz. Even if my cheap set fails and is unserviceable in ten years, the interest on the savings would buy me multiple cheap sets. I just don’t get it.
You provided a PERFECT example of what I meant in my other post. Just telling people to that good regulators are worth the money, comes across to a new diver as "just blow money on the problem" and doesn't tell them what to look for, what the features mean, or which features are or aren't needed.

If your regulators work just fine for your needs, then continue to use them. Spending more on regulators probably won't gain you much value.

Personally, my first sets were some old/used Scubapro G250 + MK10s, which cost about $125-ish for a 1st and 2nd stage, and then I learned how to service them myself. I more recently upgraded to two sets of MK25 + S600s, and to be honest, I can barely tell the difference. For the people blowing $2000 USD on regulators, do they really care if they can be serviced 30 years from now? Or will they have blown more money on the latest/hottest regs?

Features one may want are:
  • Balanced - A really good feature to have.
  • Adjustable - Kinda nice.
  • Environmentally Sealed - Good for salt water and cold water.
  • Cold-Water compatible - Only needed for very cold water.
  • 1st Stage Turret - Very for SideMount, and perhaps useful for backmount.
  • Lightweight or Compact - for travel
  • Lots of ports - Most divers probably won't need them.
And I say "may want" because it really depends on the kind of diving you do, or how dedicated you are.

That's why I'm advocating people generally start with more affordable regs (unless they have specific needs for specific regs), and then switch to nicer once once they have a little more experience or pursue more advanced diving.
 
How does that work?
I’m not a regulator designer, but this provides some info sufficient for the layman. In short a balanced reg provides consistent performance through varying conditions, whether that means decreased tank pressure, or increased ambient pressure.


The drawback to a balanced reg is that they breathe great right up until the tank is empty.
 
That would depend upon the regulators and how they are put to use.

Most rental fleets use p.o.s. equipment, leaking like sieves; but I had seen enough vacationers enjoy that experience without real accident or injury; but I wouldn't trust them under the ice, for example, or expect to easily breathe off them, in a swift current, which I have frequently experienced

I dive commercially; and when I first began, there were basically only two brands which saw regular use, in science, military and industry -- ScubaPro and Poseidon, both of whom always leaned toward the pricier side. The Swedes cut us a break; we went that route; and I still have most of that gear -- and the regulator seen below is my first, from mid-1970s. Parts are still available; and I think nothing of using it, under even the heaviest of conditions. I also work on them and have rebuilt them any number of times.

If you like the cheap-o route, and you're happy with it -- more power to you; but I am only interested in the long haul and not keen on too much disposability . . .
Used to have one of those 300’s. Bought it second hand to replace a Spiro bought new when I first started diving. After more than 20 years of hard use one of the LP port threads had corroded. Things don’t last for ever. Replaced it with a 5000 With the flat bottomed first stage.
 
While it's not terrible advice in general, this thread was also targeted at brand-new divers who don't know the difference between a good regulator and a bad one, or what all the features even mean.
Give a consumer some credit.

I didn't know jack-sh**t about regulators when I first began and just did some research on my own and wondered, as others already have, why the price discrepancy between one and the other? Balanced or unbalanced?

Originally, I was just shopping for something for both freezing waters (where I was already spending quality time) and, eventually, hopefully, the tropics, should I ever come up with the cash -- and still have that regulator, on my pony, through, going on, eight presidencies -- no corrosion, nothing . . .
 

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