Gear Maintenance: Rinse your metal second stage in warm vs cold water ?

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Is the picture you attached of my regulator? Or a sample photograph.

Also, the photographs I posted were sent to me by the Scuba Pro technician while maintaining my gear.
You mean during maintenance, to soak the piston in a plastic bottle to avoid it making contact with other parts?
Yes, the parts in the yellow colander were copied from your post. If that's from a shop, they should be ashamed.

And no, the scarred piston pic was from a recent Mk25 with 12psi IP drift. Took 20 min of polishing with Micromesh to fix. A shop would have just replaced the piston.

Exactly. The plastic bottle keeps the knife edge from accidental contact with other metal parts. It doesn't take much to create a leak.
 
Yes, the parts in the yellow colander were copied from your post. If that's from a shop, they should be ashamed.

And no, the scarred piston pic was from a recent Mk25 with 12psi IP drift. Took 20 min of polishing with Micromesh to fix. A shop would have just replaced the piston.

Exactly. The plastic bottle keeps the knife edge from accidental contact with other metal parts. It doesn't take much to create a leak.

Unfortunately was from the scuba pro official shop

Any other tips I can read for better maintenance practices?
 
Any other tips I can read for better maintenance practices?
It's a guild system. Apprentices learn from experienced techs and then pass that knowledge along. There is no school. Vance Harlow's book has tips, but no theory. Wolfinger has theory but no tips.
The courses techs learn from are parts-changing courses. Scubapro is as good as it gets. They have three levels of training, from Intro to Advanced to Pro, and René Dupré knows their regs cold. But he's not in repair. He doesn't see what we see when guys bring in their train wrecks for an "Annual Service", except it's been six years.
And to add to that, fully 40% of the attendees at the Intro course have never even opened a reg before. So nobody has taught them how to handle a pick. But the mfr cert course isn't designed for that.
And they're the new graduate at their shop, except that there's only one other tech, and he's not there to teach the new guy, who's expected to "know", since he now has the certificate.

And then our brethren only want to pay $30 per stage, even when their regs are green with corrosion. The shop owner can't spare the time it'd really take the tech to check the service bulletins for your model (one of thirty that the shop sees), test it for baseline, disassemble it, clean it, inspect it under the microscope, reassemble it, find that the IP drift it has from the scarred piston really requires polishing he doesn't know how to do, call you on the phone for permission to spend $60 on a new piston, disassemble it, replace the piston, reassemble it and test it again. They literally can't afford it!

I wish that story were unusual, but it's fully 20% of the regs I see. If my shop owner prices by time required to do a perfect repair, since bad news travels 5x good news, the money he gets for an expensive repair will cost him more in badmouthing from the unhappy customer (who should be ecstatic that a shop was able to restore his piece of junk).

Am I ranting? :fear:

Maybe someday someone will write the basic book. The one you read before you take your first course. Years ago, I spent $3k on tuition and motel going to a shop for a week of basic training. I then spent another $2k on eBay regs and service kits to practice on. Then more travel expense for official manufacturer courses at $200-400 per brand. That finally entitled me to service your regs in my first shop, where I really started learning what actually comes in the door. I'm up to nine mfrs, and 12 "brands". And I'm still learning.

No, the list of what I wasn't taught could fill a book. But with 95% of divers doing no-stop diving, and the rest checking their gear more carefully, we don't kill anyone. Just lots of equipment nightmare stories for ScubaBoard.

"It ain't rocket science, but it sure is precise! "
 
Hello Divers!

What is the most effective way to rinse off your reg after a salt water dive? I like to dip them in VERY warm water to get rid of the salt, but is it good for the material that is inside of the second stage? (Mine is a SP A700). Just want to confirm! Thanks
Lukewarm water helps dissolve the salt micro-crystals better in my experience.
If you have the chance leave it soaking for a while.

*IF you are going to be storing your reg for a while, let it dry completely and rinse AGAIN after a few days as you will probably see salt crystals reappearing. This is normal and makes sense as salt is stubborn!
 
Lukewarm water helps dissolve the salt micro-crystals better in my experience.
If you have the chance leave it soaking for a while.

*IF you are going to be storing your reg for a while, let it dry completely and rinse AGAIN after a few days as you will probably see salt crystals reappearing. This is normal and makes sense as salt is stubborn!
It is a great idea to rinse it again after couple days, because i do realize salt crystals on my gear even after an intense rinse !
 
I just realized that I don't ALWAYS rinse my gear in hot fresh water..... We usually head over to Neah Bay, WA at least once a year for a week or so and on the way back we usually stop at Crescent Lake for a "High Pressure" rinse dive. Then when I get home I just flush out by BC wing and hang everything up to dry!
 
because i do realize salt crystals on my gear even after an intense rinse !

That's probably because of the minerals present in the rinse/wash water. I use bottled water for more sensitive equipment such as regulators, dive computers, BC hoses/inflator, lights and whatever else that I consider "sensitive."
 
That's probably because of the minerals present in the rinse/wash water. I use bottled water for more sensitive equipment such as regulators, dive computers, BC hoses/inflator, lights and whatever else that I consider "sensitive."
Umm interesting, i guess im taking a salt water shower every time then haha
 
That's probably because of the minerals present in the rinse/wash water. I use bottled water for more sensitive equipment such as regulators, dive computers, BC hoses/inflator, lights and whatever else that I consider "sensitive."
You are off by two orders of magnitude. Checking the Chicago water reports, Total Dissolved Solids for our tap water is around around 150 mg/l. TDS for seawater is roughly 30,000 mg/l.

Also, bottled water has the same range of TDS as tap water unless it is specifically labelled as Reverse Osmosis (without minerals being added back) or Distilled.
 
That's probably because of the minerals present in the rinse/wash water. I use bottled water for more sensitive equipment such as regulators, dive computers, BC hoses/inflator, lights and whatever else that I consider "sensitive."

Bottled water is not free of minerals.
Another moniker for bottled water is mineral water.

Drop a bit of your bottled water on a metal surface and let it dry. You'll literally see the unevaporated minerals on the metal surface.

I would use distilled water if you really want to eliminate any minerals.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

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