Gear Maintenance: Rinse your metal second stage in warm vs cold water ?

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Hello Divers!

What is the most effective way to rinse off your reg after a salt water dive? I like to dip them in VERY warm water to get rid of the salt, but is it good for the material that is inside of the second stage? (Mine is a SP A700). Just want to confirm! Thanks
You are on the right track rinsing the A700 very thoroughly. The adjustment assembly has very fine plastic threads inside a metal sleeve. The plastic adjustment screw is prone to bind and break on disassembly when salt and silt sit in there. Not SP's best design. Hopefully thorough rinsing will help keep it from freezing up.
 
Warm bath with a wee bit of lemon. Afterwards a light drying with a lint free towel. Followed by warm air infused with some Best Air Bacteria Treatment. Finally a spritz of mint on the mouth piece.
the spritz of mint got me :). I do put in some gear cleaner to get rid of the bacteria tho
 
You are on the right track rinsing the A700 very thoroughly. The adjustment assembly has very fine plastic threads inside a metal sleeve. The plastic adjustment screw is prone to bind and break on disassembly when salt and silt sit in there. Not SP's best design. Hopefully thorough rinsing will help keep it from freezing up.
Umm interesting. I bought the a700 is because most modern scuba regulators are made out of plastic, but the a700 is a whole metal second stage and it breathe with a little moisture which I love. Hopefully A700 can last forever...
 
Looked ok to me when I got it serviced 1.25 yrs/150 dives later
1669599289053.png

Just a tiny suggestion. Pleeeeeeze put your piston by itself in a plastic medicine bottle in which you've drilled holes.
20220523_193959.jpg

Pistons really hate getting bumped into other metal parts. Or dragged against the workbench. Those little nicks at the top = IP drift or even IP creep.
 
What is the most effective way to rinse off your reg after a salt water dive? I like to dip them in VERY warm water to get rid of the salt, but is it good for the material that is inside of the second stage? (Mine is a SP A700). Just want to confirm! Thanks
My just-certified college student returned last week from Roatan. She took my old (1994) Scubapro Stab Jacket + AIR 2 + Wenoka Dive Knife and Scubapro Mk 10 + Balanced Adjustable. and Riffe snorkel. Of course she rinsed everything there in a fresh (?) water rinse tank before heading home.

However, once home, we cleaned gear the way I "always" have (when the weather is nice enough, that is)--namely, on a tarp, on the lawn, with the reg (and AIR 2) attached to a cylinder and pressurized, and a lot of high-flow water from the garden hose, being careful to "work" all swivels and connections and buttons, and open all pockets and zippers and velcro, etc. (Don't forget the ambient pressure chamber on the Mk 10!) BC is washed (rinsed) inside and out, and drained through the OPR valves and the AIR 2, a couple of times. And hands are used to "wash" the outside of the BC, front and back, and the hoses, a couple of times.

Afterward, wetsuit, hood, gloves, and booties are cleaned in the bathtub with wetsuit shampoo, rinsed, soaked in Sink-the-Stink, and then hung up to dry.

Ever since I started buying gear in 1987. Works every time.

rx7diver
 

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However, once home, we cleaned gear the way I "always" have (when the weather is nice enough, that is)--namely, on a tarp, on the lawn, with the reg (and AIR 2) attached to a cylinder and pressurized, and a lot of high-flow water from the garden hose,
Living in a condo, when I get home from a trip, I just plunk it all in the bathtub and hop in with it. It's all a little crowded with the tank, but I manage. After the initial clean (which may involve some baby wash), I drain, use the shower to rinse everything, climb out, refill the tub and let soak overnight.
 
View attachment 726852

Just a tiny suggestion. Pleeeeeeze put your piston by itself in a plastic medicine bottle in which you've drilled holes.
View attachment 726983
Pistons really hate getting bumped into other metal parts. Or dragged against the workbench. Those little nicks at the top = IP drift or even IP creep.


Thank you so much Rob.

Two questions.

Is the picture you attached of my regulator? Or a sample photograph.

Also, the photographs I posted were sent to me by the Scuba Pro technician while maintaining my gear.
You mean during maintenance, to soak the piston in a plastic bottle to avoid it making contact with other parts?
 
Thank you so much Rob.

Two questions.

Is the picture you attached of my regulator? Or a sample photograph.

Also, the photographs I posted were sent to me by the Scuba Pro technician while maintaining my gear.
You mean during maintenance, to soak the piston in a plastic bottle to avoid it making contact with other parts?
Piston is the last thing I put into the US, carefully standing up, and the first thing I take out. Being stainless steel it doesnt need much cleaning beyond a swab inside with a Q tip and wipe around the oring seats.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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