Was this suit new? It IS possible for the dump valves to get gummed up and vent poorly. Soaking them overnight in distilled water, followed by more soaking in another batch of water with a few drops of Ivory soap in it, helps a great deal.
The thing about drysuit diving is that you have to use the weight you have to use. Trying to keep the ballast down, and ending up underweighted and squeezed, means you aren't comfortable AND you aren't very warm, either. This is why, at least around my neck of the woods, you see a lot of people with the Faber steel tanks (which are very negative) and using steel backplates. You want to get rid of ANYTHING with positive buoyancy that you don't absolutely have to have on you, and that includes Al80s and BCs with a lot of padding.
Drysuit fit, as somebody else has already said, is a big deal, and something most new drysuit divers don't know a great deal about (and drysuit dealers either don't, or would rather sell the suit than tell the customer it doesn't fit well). Material makes a difference, too -- My compressed neo suit, although it is warm, is a bear to get in and out of, because it's heavy and stiff. In addition, among my dive buddies, there are only a few people who can get in and out of their suits with no assistance at all. Most of us need a bit of help with a zipper, or getting an arm out of a sleeve, or something. It's just part of the dry suit deal.
But I think if you tweak your configuration a little and get enough ballast that you can run more air in the suit, you'll be far happier with it.
And don't feel bad about blowing a stop. We've all been there! The key to drysuit buoyancy is ANTICIPATION -- because it vents slowly in comparison with a BC, you have to start venting a lot earlier.
The thing about drysuit diving is that you have to use the weight you have to use. Trying to keep the ballast down, and ending up underweighted and squeezed, means you aren't comfortable AND you aren't very warm, either. This is why, at least around my neck of the woods, you see a lot of people with the Faber steel tanks (which are very negative) and using steel backplates. You want to get rid of ANYTHING with positive buoyancy that you don't absolutely have to have on you, and that includes Al80s and BCs with a lot of padding.
Drysuit fit, as somebody else has already said, is a big deal, and something most new drysuit divers don't know a great deal about (and drysuit dealers either don't, or would rather sell the suit than tell the customer it doesn't fit well). Material makes a difference, too -- My compressed neo suit, although it is warm, is a bear to get in and out of, because it's heavy and stiff. In addition, among my dive buddies, there are only a few people who can get in and out of their suits with no assistance at all. Most of us need a bit of help with a zipper, or getting an arm out of a sleeve, or something. It's just part of the dry suit deal.
But I think if you tweak your configuration a little and get enough ballast that you can run more air in the suit, you'll be far happier with it.
And don't feel bad about blowing a stop. We've all been there! The key to drysuit buoyancy is ANTICIPATION -- because it vents slowly in comparison with a BC, you have to start venting a lot earlier.