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Those are the perfect ones for those little housings.
Once they are pink and illustrating that the gas is getting wet you change the filter then take out the disk and hold it with tweezers while you wave a hair dryer over it. Poof blue again. Keep the rest safe in a ziplock baggie. I reused one for over 10 years before it got too ratty and I put in a fresh one.

Don't forget you want to be analyzing CO in every tank you use whether pumped at home or from a shop.

Those will be the ones I get. Bummer that the CO disks don't do a darn, but that's why I come on here, to get the experience of those before me. Will get a CO detector. Any cheap recommendations?

Phew thank goodness for that! Lol



Not really IMHO for home use any of the standard Polyurea NLGI 2 greases should be OK
Just dont use any of the complex soap greases or Lithium based, Find one you can get cheap and we can discuss further brand types and differences, inhibitors etc.



Yep thats a good start, you have the making of the Rix technical expert on here. Way to go. Trust but verify.
Most if not all of the so called problems with Rix on this forum is by and large the forum group experience of buying old scrap military surplus 30 year old "clunkers" then moaning why they can't get parts cheap and why they dont work off the bat. That and a total inability to read the manual fully first. Plug in press go and wonder what the funny noise was before it stopped. That and a 3 blades on the fan start, the thinking being better than non I guess. And the I wonder why it has blank plugs were the relief valves are supposed to go. Oh well lets start her up anyhow,

Other clasics like pin prick hole in the first stage cooling coil when the driven pulley is rammed on the shaft right up touching the coil, others like changing from electric drive to gas engine and wondering why it fills so fast and the other way around. My all time favorate was rod end bearing seized and con rod snaped (as its designed to do) customer wants it fixed under warranty, The inside of the shrould has 2 kilos of gease stuck to it yet the bearing is bone dry. Grease tube is half empty with a wooden stick poking out of it but the grease gun is still in the box never used
How have you been lubricating the zerc grease nipples with a stick? asked the engineer. Yes says the lady dive shop owner there is no instuctions in the manual how to use a grease gun so we used a stick like the outboard motor shop does next door. Give me strength. And Trish if your reading this Yes its you.

I am by no means an expert on small engines, but I've rebuilt one or 2 in my time. Making sure they're in good order before moving forward always saves us the most money:)

I know I need grease, if you'd like to make a cheap recommendation (or anyone for that matter) I'm happy to oblige. I had found some before, but now I can't seem to locate...was like $32 for 2 tubes if I remember.

The lady with the greasing stick....holy moly, I feel bad for her. We run a lot of heavy machinery, everything gets greased every 6-8 hours.
 
I believe Rix requires a proprietary grease but maybe not as I dont have one.

Those will be the ones I get. Bummer that the CO disks don't do a darn, but that's why I come on here, to get the experience of those before me. Will get a CO detector. Any cheap recommendations?
Ahh yes cheap life support is always the best :p
 

Thanks

I believe Rix requires a proprietary grease but maybe not as I dont have one.


Ahh yes cheap life support is always the best :p

I can buy a bolt snap @ my LDS for $13. I can buy the same bolt snap and have it shipped from DGX or wherever for $4. Maybe cheap was the wrong word, but to me it seems anytime you add diving or scuba to a device they like to add another "0" to the price.

If something works, that I can spend money on wisely and not impulsively I try to do that...it means I get to go diving more:)
 
For real time CO monitoring, I plumbed in a Tee that feeds my fill whip (back side of filter PMV). The second leg is on a needle valve, goes through a DIN flow restrictor, is fed to an adjustable laboratory flow regulator (also a reed valve for flow control), then feeds my Sensorcon CO Meter....

I felt it worth the investment.... With you running a gas driven compressor, I'd think it a no-brainer for the investment.
 
bob is right on the money, i have a co checker but i only use it every 10 hours or so ....if i used a gas engine to run plum it in permanently .....also DONT use the sea view window checker for CO it isnt worth a damn
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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