Faber Fx 80 vs XSScuba HP 80

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

Alagua

Registered
Messages
18
Reaction score
0
Location
Canada (Québec)
# of dives
0 - 24
Hi,
between those two tanks, which one should I buy. I'll be using them only in freshwater. Also, if I use 8 pounds with an Al, does it mean, that I will only need 2 pounds or noting with the steel tank?

Thank you
 
Hi,
between those two tanks, which one should I buy. I'll be using them only in freshwater. Also, if I use 8 pounds with an Al, does it mean, that I will only need 2 pounds or noting with the steel tank?

Thank you

The worthington has the better finish and the better valve, and in my and most others opinion is the better tank.

however, Faber has been putting their tanks on huge sales lately. Enough that the price difference of $100 or more savings would make the Faber tank more attractive. (which is why I've got Fabers).

Faber FX-80 is -1.74 empty and -8.05 full (buoyancy)
Worthington X-7 is -3 empty -9 full. (buoyancy)

Overall weight, the Worthington weighs almost 3 pounds more carry weight.

So you can see that both tanks are very similar in weight and buoyancy. If the tanks are the same price (or very close), I'd buy the Worthington. IF the Faber you're looking at is on sale for $100 less than the Worthington, then I'd buy the Faber. (just my opinion, but lots of others here have done the same thing based on that criteria).


For weight compared to an AL80 (4.4 empty, -1.4 full )
For the worthington tank you'll likely be able to dive freshwater w/o weight, or maybe a pound or two (depending on your suit). Same will be true for the Faber though, but maybe about a pound difference.
 
Thank you Mike. I was looking at the Faber for the sale they have. But since, I'm in Canada, I think that with the shipment cost the Faber will be almost the same as the Worthington my LSD have. I have to check that.

Some people told me it would be a bad idea diving with a steel tank and no weight vs Al tank + weights if I happen to have problem with my BCD or anything else.
What do you think ?
 
The real issue is when twinning tanks. With some of the larger tanks you can get to 20 lbs negative. If you enter the water without turning on your air you could be on a rocket sled to the bottom and may have to drop your tanks. With neutral buoyancy, I only see a minor issue (not FLOATING to the surface in a blackout). I would do the steel, but get a 100cf tank.
 
Thank you Mike. I was looking at the Faber for the sale they have. But since, I'm in Canada, I think that with the shipment cost the Faber will be almost the same as the Worthington my LSD have. I have to check that.

Some people told me it would be a bad idea diving with a steel tank and no weight vs Al tank + weights if I happen to have problem with my BCD or anything else.
What do you think ?

On the sale price, if the prices are comparible, as I said in my earlier post, buy the Worthington. It has a better finnish and a better valve. But overall there is nothring wrong with the Fabers either.



well the idea behind having weights is that they are ditchable.

However, I dive a Faber FX100 and don't wear any weight (or hardly do). In the quarries, I'm a little negative w/o weight (at depth) and about neutral at 20 ft. however I can easily swim to the surface without use of my BC for lift. (I don't agree with using your BC as lift to ascend anyway).

In saltwater, on deeper dives where my wetsuit compresses, I can dive with no weight but might need to pull myself down the anchor line the first few feet. I typically might add about two 2-pounders (one on each side on my BC) to offset this... This is also usefull for shallow reef dives where you have more of a tendancy to "float up".

But either way, even with a steel tank, I can still kick up with very little effort, so the concern in ditching weights is not a problem with me. Now if I was diving a 6 pound backplate and negative single or double tanks, that might be an issue. that's why some folks who dive heavy use redundant bladders in their BC's, just in case. Or I could switch to an aluminum backplate which is much lighter also as another option, in this case.

Ditching weights isn't always the "sure fire solution" either. You don't want to "rocket" to the surface like a Polaris missile being fires out of a submarine. You want an ascent that you can control in any situation, especially in an emergency. (just my opinion).

hope this all helps... mike
 
Get the Worthingtons, they are made in Canada.
 
Thank you everyone, your comments make sense. Since I could have them for 1 $ difference, I'll go with the worthington.
 
just being Nosey, but what does a Worthington cost in Canada?

(like the HP100)

Usually, all scuba diving gear is more expensive in Canada. If I remember well the HP 100 was 345 $ (same as scubatoys).
 
well most scuba gear isn't made in Canada, but imported from distributors in the US or other... so there is GST/Duty or some sort of extra tax added to it in a lot of cases. That and Canada has in the past traditionally had to compete with the US Dollar. (not so much today...)

Worthington tanks and Whites drysuits are made in canada... (not sure what else). so hopefully you wouldn't have inflated prices on them.

oh... in case you're wondering, Faber tanks are made in Italy.

$345 is the MAP price for Worthington tanks set by XSSCUBA, the distributor for Worthington.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

Back
Top Bottom