DRIS Shorty vs Hollis LED3

[AlabamaExile]

I am going to purchase a backup light and am looking at the DRIS Shorty 1000 and Hollis LED3. The DRIS Shorty is slightly more expensive but offers 1000 lumens (although I have my doubts that it is actually that bright). The Hollis is cheaper but is only 230 lumens. Both lights run off 3 AA cells. The Hollis is more of a "brand name" but the DRIS Shorty seems to have a good reputation here on SB. The reason I am purchasing the light is that I am taking a cavern course and need an additional backup light for the dives (I already have a cheap UK).

Does anyone have any experience with either of these lights? All replies are appreciated.

 

[AaronRiot]

If the Hollis hasn't changed in the last year you should be aware that the on/off is done by twisting the rear. Opening the light to change the batteries is done the same way. Twist a little too far at depth or twist the wrong way by mistake and you've flooded your light. Mine flooded and I was quite careful with it. Diving lights should have a button or some other on/off device that does not risk a flood. It's a poor design.

The light itself is fantastic though if you're sure to take enough care not to twist it too far. I'd buy it again if they engineered a more reliable on/off. I like its all metal design and weight. I also like the strength and tightness of the beam.

I have no experience with the other option you mentioned so I cannot comment on that one.

 

[rhwestfall]

I own both..... they are both "twist to operate", but the Hollis is not intuitive as it is backward of the conventional majority of lights functioning this way...

I flooded a Hollis the third dive (first time it was used). Hollis was excellent in service and repalced it. Beam is not as bright as the DRIS 1K shorty. Hollis says dont run it out of water. DRIS seems to have just astounding customer service.

They are "close", but I'd tip toward the DRIS....

Hollis makes very good stuff (love my F-1's), but this light just isn't my favorite....


Edit: the Hollis stores with the "switch" tight in the off position, and you begin to spin the tail cap off to turn it on. Mine, for some reason needed more than the 1/4 turn Hollis stated to turn it on, and flooded, and they were quick to replace it. The DRIS line of lights (and most other lights I own that are twist to operate) turn on by twisting until it stops (hence the "oposite" statement about the Hollis).

 

[chrpai]

I've got about 100 dives on my DRIS 1000 (twist on) and I've never flooded it. DanV posted a GI3 DIR video a while back and one of the things GI3 said was your backup should be a simple twist on, alkaline driven light to ensure reliability.

I don't have the shorty but I have other XM-L T6 lights and 800-1000 lumens is fair. When I start hearing 1200-1400 I call BS.

 

[AlabamaExile]

Thanks guys. Looks like I will opt for DRIS Shorty. For those of you that have them, do you recommend the Goodman glove?

 

[rhwestfall]

twist lights and goodman gloves are not a peaceful cohabitation. Rigid goodman handle would (okay, IS) my choice.

 

[GrumpyOldGuy]

twist lights and goodman gloves are not a peaceful cohabitation. Rigid goodman handle would (okay, IS) my choice.

I agree. I have the glove, its great as long as you agree to turn the light on and leave it on the whole dive. That means you change the batteries. Fine for night dives.
For occasional use to looks in cracks and under ledges, its better to clip it so you can turn it on as needed. The batteries then last a long time.

 

[AlabamaExile]

Thanks to all for the input. I think I will skip the glove for now -- I can always pick one up later if the need arises.

 

[crpntr133]

twist lights and goodman gloves are not a peaceful cohabitation. Rigid goodman handle would (okay, IS) my choice.

So have you used it with a rigid Goodman? If so what brand held the DRIS shorty? The sock seems to be pretty useless.

 

[eelnoraa]

I have a little different opinion about rigid goodman vs light socks. Rigid is good for canister light where you have a light cored tathering to the light head. Light sock for non canister where the "light head" securely attached to your hand is essential.