Dorcy Dive II 220 Lumen

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I wrapped mine in yellow electrical tape

Yeah, thinking about that or maybe red/white reflective tape. All my previous lights were bought with yellow bodies for just that reason. But apparently, tech isn't cool if it isn't black:wink: I vote for visible and unmistakable, over cool:dork2:

Guy (red CF200)
 
Decided not to dive this weekend, after oversleeping this morning (1 a.m. bedtime with a 4:00 a.m. alarm, which I slept right through), a poorish forecast for tomorrow and my buddy and his DR500 not being available for comparison. I did get to compare both my 180 Gen IIs and my Mini Q40 eLED Plus. The beams of the two Dorcys differ slightly; one spot is tighter and rounder, the other is larger, has some corners and has more halos. Picked the tighter one for a daytime light.

Compared to my Q40, the Dorcy's spot is brighter, tighter and whiter (my Q40 didn't have brand new batteries in it, but with LEDs I assume that will only affect the brightness, not the color temp). The Q40 will probably work better for night diving, but I'll have to try them out in the water to see. The only digital camera I have is the one in my computer, but I'll try and take some comparison pictures tonight.

Guy
 
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I did some testing of my Dorcy 180 Gen IIs and my UK MiniQ40 eLED Plus last night, and took a couple of photos with the camera built into my computer. Unfortunately, I was only able to set the lights up about 70" away from a wall, so some of the details of the beam shape were lost, and the camera lacks exposure control so I couldn't adjust it to make the details come out better. And for some reason I'm having trouble importing them here. I tried to attach them but not sure it worked, so will describe them if that didn't work.


The first photo showed the two Dorcy 180s side by side. One of them has a very well defined hotspot, which under water within 6" of a white surface can be seen to be a blacked-out square with extensions straight off each side, the side furthest away from the square being rounded. The other light head has a larger, less well defined hot spot, a few of the lobes are visible, but the hot spot is more of a blob, especially underwater. This appears to be due to less precision in manufacturing, probably normal variation.

The second photo showed the Dorcy with the wider spot side by side with the Q40 which looks very washed out in comparison. After taking this photo I moved to where I could shine the lights on a wall from about 10' away, to see more detail of the beams. The Q40 has a hot spot that's roughly 2.5 to 3 times the diameter of the Dorcy. It's a warmer (lower temp) color, not as bright, and there's only a single, much lower brightness ring at roughly double the radius of the hot spot. The 180s have multiple rings,at least four well-defined ones with others, that extend out as far or farther than the Q40 does, each ring being of lower brightness.

For the photos the Dorcy with the wider spot had six new Duracell Copper Top Alkaline AAAs, the other one had two new Copper Tops and four that have been sitting in my freezer unused for a year or more. The Q40 had 3 Energizer alkaline AAs and 1 Kirkland alkaline AA, and I've used these batteries for an unknown length of time in this light, but probably less than 1.5 hours total.

After taking the pictures I decided to get some new AAs for the Q40, and noticed some increase in brightness but no change in color temperature. I swapped light heads on the Dorcy, so that the light head with the tighter spot was now on the body with six new batteries.

Both the 180s had been used intermittently for about 15 minutes up to this point since I installed the batteries. I turned on the one with the tighter, whiter, brighter beam and 6 new batteries (Dorcy #1) on and left the other one (#2) off, only turning it on briefly whenever I compared it to #1, and put both of them in a plastic dish tub with enough water @ 50 deg. F. (a typical water temp for Monterey) to cover them, then left them. After about 40 minutes the water temp had increased to 54 deg., so I put the tub in the refrigerator for another 20 minutes, which brought the temp back down to 50. For the rest of the test I kept the water temp between 48 and 52 deg. by making use of the refrigerator when necessary.

After 1:00 hr constant burn time, #1 was now slightly less bright and appeared to be a slightly lower color temp than #2; that may just be an effect of the drop in brightness. I let #1 run for another 30 minutes.

At 1:30, #1 appeared to have lost a bit more brightness, but the difference was very slight.

At 1:45, there was no difference from previous levels that I could detect.

At 2:00 hr. there was again no detectable change, so I reverted to checking every 0.5 hours.

At 2:30, same.

At 3:00 hours, #1 was either the same or may have decreased slightly in brightness, but was still plenty bright.

At 3:30, no detectable change.

At 4:00, maybe slightly dimmer.

At 4:30, no detectable change, and time (2:00 a.m.) for me to go to bed. But first, I took all three lights outside and shined Dorcy #1 against a dark fence from about 10 feet away, side by side with the Q40, then shined them all three of them in turn on the top of a tree 50-75 feet away.

The difference in beam width and rings was very apparent on the fence and the tree. The Q40 has a large hotspot, and even though it has a single ring extending beyond it there's virtually no usable light in it -- almost all the light is concentrated inside the hot spot. It lit up the entire top of the tree, perhaps 15 feet wide.

The Dorcy's had smaller, brighter, whiter hot spots than the Q40 initially, but #1 appeared to be about the same brightness and color as the Q40 after burning all this time. Both provided more useful light outside of the hotspot than the Q40 did on the wall, but the tighter hotspot only lit up about half of the top of the tree. Dorcy #2 was noticeably brighter and whiter than the Q40 or the long-burning #1, but the latter still provided more than enough light.

All in all, I'm quite pleased with the performance of the Dorcy, but still need to get them underwater with my Q40 and my friend's DR500 to see how they do in that environment. I've previously used the Q40 as a primary at night, and have found it to be pretty decent at that. Judging by the run time I achieved at ~ 50 degrees, it should be possible to use rechargeable batteries in the Dorcy lights and use them as daytime primaries for signaling and crevice-viewing, at least. I intend to find out, but don't have rechargeable batteries and a charger yet. I'd still prefer that the lights used AAs like the Q40, which is about the same size.

Guy
 
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I took the three lights: Dorcy I 180, Dorcy II 180 and Dorcy II 220 on a day dive to the Yukon in San Diego, and all three were fine for looking inside and I really could not discern the difference between the three. There are small difference but to notice them you have to look under controlled conditions and practically the light from the three is identical.

Adam
 
I took the three lights: Dorcy I 180, Dorcy II 180 and Dorcy II 220 on a day dive to the Yukon in San Diego, and all three were fine for looking inside and I really could not discern the difference between the three. There are small difference but to notice them you have to look under controlled conditions and practically the light from the three is identical.

Adam

I took both my 180 Gen IIs and my Mini Q40 eLED Plus out on a night dive saturday. The 180s were better, with a brighter hotspot and a usable spill. We had excellent conditions, vis probably 30-35 feet, and I was able to light up squid egg clusters easily at that distance. The color temp was noticeably hotter than the Q40 or my buddy's DR500, and seemed to be about as bright as the latter, although with a narrower beam.

I have no previous experience with a Goodman handle and found it useful, although it still doesn't allow you to see what you're writing on a wrist slate. I had to set the light on the bottom and move my arm until the slate was lit up, or else have my buddy illuminate my slate, to be able to write properly. I am a little concerned with whether the clamp on the Goodman handle will spread as it ages and allow the light to fall out; some duct tape around the light body and/or over the clamp will make things more secure.

I was perfectly satisfied with using one of the 180s as my primary. I have no personal experience with HID can lights, but I prefer not to turn night into day or barbecue any fish that are caught in the beam. Caves would be a different matter. On a couple of occasions I turned the Dorcy's hotspot away from fish that I wanted to approach, lighting them only with the spill, and was able to get within a foot or so.

On Sunday I took one Dorcy out on a day dive at Point Lobos to see how well it works for signaling and crack inspecting. Fine for cracks, but we had unusually good vis at Lobos that day, 80'+ vertical and probably 45'-50' horizontal with clear, sunny skies, so it was much lighter at depth than normal. Under those conditions it was poor for signaling; if you were fairly close to your buddy and the bottom, say 5' or less, it could be seen, but otherwise your buddy has to be looking right at the spot on the bottom to see it. I need to try it in more typical lighting conditions to see how it works for that.

Definitely keepers for me, although I'd still prefer one that uses 3-4 AAs.

Guy
 
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Just curious...what do you write on the slate at night? A soft hands-free mount might be more secure than the Goodman as well since you don't have a cord to keep you from losing it if it did fall out.
 
Just curious...what do you write on the slate at night? A soft hands-free mount might be more secure than the Goodman as well since you don't have a cord to keep you from losing it if it did fall out.

It's essentially a soft Goodman handle, i.e. the upper part that holds the light is solid, then there's an adjustable strap that goes around your hand. As to what I write on the slate, the same info I note during the day. Pressure, dive time, depth, temp, bearing, distance. If I had a computer with downloadable data and a bookmark funtion I could do without many of these, but I'm loathe to rely on anything electronic underwater, without backups.
 
It's essentially a soft Goodman handle, i.e. the upper part that holds the light is solid, then there's an adjustable strap that goes around your hand. As to what I write on the slate, the same info I note during the day. Pressure, dive time, depth, temp, bearing, distance. If I had a computer with downloadable data and a bookmark funtion I could do without many of these, but I'm loathe to rely on anything electronic underwater, without backups.

I don't know what Goodman you're using, but if you're using the OxyCheq soft Goodman, it's designed to have a bolt snap tied to the back of the light and the clip clipped to the handle as a backup attachment method.

OLL-20-02_150b.jpg
 
I don't know what Goodman you're using, but if you're using the OxyCheq soft Goodman, it's designed to have a bolt snap tied to the back of the light and the clip clipped to the handle as a backup attachment method.

OLL-20-02_150b.jpg

This one from Piranha. I have a bolt snap tied to the base of the light. There's also a hole on the left side of the mount base, which you could tie a bolt snap to if you wanted. The Raider light sock looks a lot more secure than this, but maybe I'll switch the bolt snap to the mount base, and run some cave cord from the light base to the mount. Or something like that; I'm still playing around to find what works best.


1994-2468_th.jpg

Click for larger image


Guy
 
Got my 220 in the mail from piranha a few days ago. Wow this thing is bright. Absolutely the brightest flashlight I have ever used. Definitely some hot spots in the middle, but they don't matter. A decent amount of 'spill' around the centre beam. I'll see what the battery life is like. I also put the 220 up against another light in the dive shop today. It was no match for the 220.

In total it was $75 CAN shipped with a nice quick release lanyard. Now to try it out underwater.
 

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