Like the project. Am not experienced enough to really chime in, but hope you don't mind I offer these thoughts anyway - and I have a way to find the thread again...
-- why four output steps, why not 5 (just curious)?
- why 100%, 75%, 50%, 25%... why vary the output step width in F-stop terms? Why not have the step width e.g. in constant 1 F-stop size? E.g.: 100%, 50%, 25%, 12%, (& 6% if 5 steps)
Added benefit: that lower setting to let you check something on yourself or very nearby (or tight passage) or ... w/o going completely blind or having to use another light ... and plenty of runtime if not needed on high.
- so, you are diving along, not filming or taking pics., frugal miser that you are with your lights on a lower setting (or off) and you realize you must take a pic of something or film something that instant.... how do you get to high with one button push / slide / turn from where ever the lights were set to? (As in a 4 or position hall effect slider or rotator with end stop would be a lot nicer than having to cycle thru modes, or a dedicated button per mode). Extra bonus: one button that does both lights (yeah, I know...)
- blue... for fluoro diving or another purpose? If yes, best wavelength for it? How does the output compare to other blue lights? Power levels on that ... or no?
- I use my red lights at times (for observing, not filming), just because it seems less bothering to some wildlife than white.... may go the route of getting flashes (photography obviously, not video) where the red focus light goes off the instant the flash goes on (not sure if the flash wouldn't drown it in either case) Curious: might video lights that strong also be used for still photography.... if yes than that would be a nice added feature.
- depth rating: I suspect the market for this powerful a video light not rated to at least closer to 300' might be quite smaller than if it was rated quite there. Not only for tech divers also for people who take comfort in having plenty of rating margin on stuff they spend mone on.
- charging batteries / changing for another set of charged ones: How long, how many screws, how many seals, what seal configuration, how safe against inadvertent seal twisting, dislocating (e.g. ring in barrel groove usual dive light) vs."loose ring" in perimeter grove (camera housing)) , pinching?
- replacement seals easily obtainable?
-housing does it look like it's clear in the pics (on phone)? If so, why not thermally more conductive... like anodized or hard anodized alu?
- hall effect switch: I have a cheap light with issues that has a slider version that is engineered such that it will slide to on with certainty if you leave the batteries in your light while off. Had to add a means of locking it. Anyway a way to keep the light off for sure, when the intent is to do that would be nice.
- individual batteries vs. battery pack: so far I always get to display my individually bagged 18650s and 26650s on the airport to the TSA or whatever a local authority may be called. They are the size they are, they look like batteries, they are clearly labelled... I wonder how much more complicated that might get with a battery pack and at which point some local authority chooses to decide that now it's theirs because it exceeds some arbitrary capacity... Also, my charger may claim to get each individual battery to "full"... how would that work when charging a pack...? The individual cells don't all behave the same -or?
