Just try a Solar Shower - save yourself a few light years of aggravation.
DIY Shower
- Thread starter costi
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OP
costi
Contributor
Tom,Tom Winters:
You are missing the point.....designing this is part of the fun. It would only be aggravating if I actually needed this product and the designs weren't working.
Bob
Bob,
What you need is an engineer dive buddy with 27 years of fluid power experieince.
Resivoir, understanding the pressure rating of this thing would be nice to know.
Scuba Cylinder
1st stage (gets you to about 150 PSI)
An over pressure valve to protect the IP output, an old second stage would work as well.
A common air pressure regulator that you can set as needed, Wal-Mart, Grainger.
Another relief valve since your water tank probably won't be good for 150 PSI.
I built a parts washer this way years ago though not with the scuba cylinder source and it worked swell.
Personally a good wash station at home serves my gear well. Leaving the dive site with salty hair adds body to the thinning strands when we go eat. Given the price of gas do you really want to load and lug this?
Paul's rig is cool though.
Pete
What you need is an engineer dive buddy with 27 years of fluid power experieince.
Resivoir, understanding the pressure rating of this thing would be nice to know.
Scuba Cylinder
1st stage (gets you to about 150 PSI)
An over pressure valve to protect the IP output, an old second stage would work as well.
A common air pressure regulator that you can set as needed, Wal-Mart, Grainger.
Another relief valve since your water tank probably won't be good for 150 PSI.
I built a parts washer this way years ago though not with the scuba cylinder source and it worked swell.
Personally a good wash station at home serves my gear well. Leaving the dive site with salty hair adds body to the thinning strands when we go eat. Given the price of gas do you really want to load and lug this?
Paul's rig is cool though.
Pete
costi:
OMG
CuriousRambler
Contributor
mike_s:
I have to imagine those are considerably more expensive is the main issue I'm seeing. Also, drilling and tapping it to receive your hose/showerhead and your pressure hose/regulator might be a bit of a pain, I don't know many people who've threaded fiberglass successfully :11doh:
Overpressure relief valves for boilers are preset at 35psi, hot water heaters are around 130psi...Personally I think 35psi is bordering on "too low" for my tastes, and 130 is obviously too high haha. I'll try to make a trip down to Ace Hardware tomorrow and ask about them, see if I can find one that's adjustable, or stays put at 50-60psi.
For the low pressure relief try a plumbing house that sells well system components.
Since you will have little rise the lower end of domestic pressure should do nicely.
Since you will have little rise the lower end of domestic pressure should do nicely.
OP
costi
Contributor
Pete,spectrum:Bob,
What you need is an engineer dive buddy with 27 years of fluid power experieince.
Resivoir, understanding the pressure rating of this thing would be nice to know.
Scuba Cylinder
1st stage (gets you to about 150 PSI)
An over pressure valve to protect the IP output, an old second stage would work as well.
A common air pressure regulator that you can set as needed, Wal-Mart, Grainger.
Another relief valve since your water tank probably won't be good for 150 PSI.
I built a parts washer this way years ago though not with the scuba cylinder source and it worked swell.
Personally a good wash station at home serves my gear well. Leaving the dive site with salty hair adds body to the thinning strands when we go eat. Given the price of gas do you really want to load and lug this?
Paul's rig is cool though.
Pete
Thanks for the input. I don't know if I would carry it or not....I really don't mind rinsing the gear a bit with the garden sprayer on site and doing a thorough cleaning at home.
I have just been mulling it over since I saw Paul use his on site though I didn't check it out at the time and am going to figure out how to construct one.
On the other hand, if a five gallon unit was sufficient as it seems it may be from some of the figures some of the posters have come up with, I very well may carry one.
I saw a 750 bilge pump at WalMart tonight for 12.00. It may be worth trying out to see how it would perform. It won't be a pressurized system per say, but with an efficient spray head it may work. Film at 11
o bob
OP
costi
Contributor
Where is the edit button when I need it?
CuriousRambler
Contributor
Ok, another idea.
How about cascading a couple 5gal buckets and only pressurize one directly. That way you end up with 10 Gal. but you're still working with the same simple components, plus an extra hose.
Use QD fittings on both buckets, so you can have just the "primary" bucket hooked directly to the tank, giving you only 5Gal. if you don't feel 10 is in order, or you can hook the hose coming off the "secondary" bucket into the other. I don't know if this is making sense the way I'm describing it, but basically - one bucket can work directly off the cylinder or cascaded to the other bucket, but the other bucket can only work as a cascade tank, not a standalone.
If you pressurize both from the top, the air's pushing down, obviously the way you'd want it to work. Tap out the side near the bottom to put in another QD or your hose going directly to a sprayer and it should work pretty well.
The only problem with using two buckets is that you'd need an over pressure valve on both buckets in case you were using one alone, so you're adding cost, and I'd have to imagine OPVs get a little more expensive if you want them to handle liquid instead of just air as well.
Without heating it, I'd imagine this could be had for under $100..Assuming you have a spare 1st stage laying around.
How about cascading a couple 5gal buckets and only pressurize one directly. That way you end up with 10 Gal. but you're still working with the same simple components, plus an extra hose.
Use QD fittings on both buckets, so you can have just the "primary" bucket hooked directly to the tank, giving you only 5Gal. if you don't feel 10 is in order, or you can hook the hose coming off the "secondary" bucket into the other. I don't know if this is making sense the way I'm describing it, but basically - one bucket can work directly off the cylinder or cascaded to the other bucket, but the other bucket can only work as a cascade tank, not a standalone.
If you pressurize both from the top, the air's pushing down, obviously the way you'd want it to work. Tap out the side near the bottom to put in another QD or your hose going directly to a sprayer and it should work pretty well.
The only problem with using two buckets is that you'd need an over pressure valve on both buckets in case you were using one alone, so you're adding cost, and I'd have to imagine OPVs get a little more expensive if you want them to handle liquid instead of just air as well.
Without heating it, I'd imagine this could be had for under $100..Assuming you have a spare 1st stage laying around.
OP
costi
Contributor
Cheetah 223.
I've got the day off tomorrow and the weather looks like it is going to be lousy.
I'm going to plan on putting an idea to the test. I'll be back.
bc
I've got the day off tomorrow and the weather looks like it is going to be lousy.
I'm going to plan on putting an idea to the test. I'll be back.
bc
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