diy dive light canister, less expensive option

[DIWdiver]

I know dive season is upon us, and some of you are really anxious to get your lights built. I know I am. As a way to say thanks for all the good advice I've received, if anyone just can't wait for 350xfire's lathe to arrive, I can make a few canisters and lids now. Not to brag, but I have a 15x56 South Bend that can turn an alu '80 with no problem (pics soon).

I don't want to stock material, so I will go on a cost-plus basis. Your best bet would be to drop ship material or to get a couple folks together who want to use the same material and I'll buy it. I'm not into manufacturing, so limit a few pieces per person.

Bottoms/Lids are stepped design, minimum 1/4" thickness each step (minimum 1/2" total). The larger diameter will have slight jaw marks. Canisters will have jaw marks on either inside or outside of one end. Material must start 1/4" oversized.

Add materials plus shipping plus prices below:
Bottoms/Lids - up to 5" diameter, $10
Canisters - from tube (no boring), $10
Canisters - from solid plastic, to 4" dia, $2/inch length
Max boring depth 8" from end
Larger sizes, Aluminum, Stainless or tolerances better than 0.005" - by request

Anything else?

D

 

[MrSpock]

DIWdiver, I'd most certainly order a top lid or even two for a light built with 3" SCH 80 PVC pipe. I don't have any material, but it's a very common pipe size used for canisters. Delrin, PVC or polycarbonate should work. 1" or 3/4" inch thick. Stepped leaving 0.5" out. OD: 3.5" ID: 2.87". Most important: the surface going toward the pipe (o-ring) must be as smooth as possible to prevent leaks.

Could you also make an off-center hole for the gland? M16x1.5? I can provide drawings.

So, anybody wants to split the material cost or even shipping?

 

[MrSpock]

Just out of curiosity drew and quoted on Home Online Machine Shop Fabricate Custom Parts Instant Pricing the lid designed for 3" PVC SCH 80 canister:

- Polycarbonate or black delrin
- M16x1.5 threaded off-center gland hole

Batch of 10 $330 ($33 each).
Batch of 20 $460 ($23 each).
Batch of 30 $600 ($20 each)

 

[DIWdiver]

MrSpock -

Those are some interesting numbers from emachineshop.com. If their prices drop much more, I'll have to hang up my lathe and use the web!

I could do the hole, but I'd have to get the tap first. The only ones I have that are close are 3/4-16 and M14x1.5. MSdiscount has them for around $12.

D

 

[DIWdiver]

Well, I had a brainstorm last night and figured out a good way to cut non-stepped disks on the lathe. Here are some photos of the prototype lens for my light, still warm off the lathe. It is 3/8" PC, 1.960" diameter with 0.050 x 0.095" o-ring groove located 0.100" from the back surface. The piece it was made from is an old machine guard, and is kind of beat up (you can see the scratches). I polished out all but the worst of them before turning it (totally NOT worth the effort).

If anyone needs lids, bottoms, or lenses made, I can do them to spec.

I have some clean 1/4" PC (actually 0.220") and the beat up 3/8" (0.340") piece that I can use.

D

 

[MrSpock]

MrSpock -

Those are some interesting numbers from emachineshop.com. If their prices drop much more, I'll have to hang up my lathe and use the web!

I could do the hole, but I'd have to get the tap first. The only ones I have that are close are 3/4-16 and M14x1.5. MSdiscount has them for around $12.

D

emachineshop probably outsources the work somewhere overseas. Their turnaround time is about a month.

Attached is the 3D I used for the quote. I've chosen M16x1.5 because of Argo (agro?) glands commonly used for canisters. The thickness of the lid needs to be at least 3/4" for 3" SCH 80 pipe. Especially if you are using only 2 latches. I thought about making the hole for the switch, but decided against it. It complicates the matter (and price) and it's a weakest point of the canister. Reed switch is much better solution.

I found a local shop - they asked $70 for 2 lids - It's insane! If I only had a lathe at my disposal... I used to work as a machinist for about 2 years, did a pretty cool stuff...

Anyway, I still need the lids, so I guess I just continue searching and monitoring craigslist for machine services.

 

[rescue15]

I just posted another run of canister kits...

http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/gear-equipment-classifieds/283795-diy-canister-kit.html

Mr Spock, If you were satisfied with the lid you purchased from me, if I get enough interest I can get you what you need for about $25 each.

Steve

 

[MrSpock]

I just posted another run of canister kits...

http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/gear-equipment-classifieds/283795-diy-canister-kit.html

Mr Spock, If you were satisfied with the lid you purchased from me, if I get enough interest I can get you what you need for about $25 each.

Steve

Hi Steve, yes, your kit is pretty good, except one minor complain: the lid surface adjacent to o-ring was pretty rough. It would not make nice contact with o-ring and therefore could potentially leak. It had some marks from the bore you used for milling the material. I spent quite a bit of time sanding it. If you can improve the process and make this surface as smooth as possible - I'm inline for 2 of them for PVC 3" SCH 80 pipe. Can you make threaded holes as well? Thanks!

 

[rescue15]

For the money, I don't think you will get it any smoother. The lids were machined using a CNC machine. If they are to be polished, that would be another step and more money. Not to sound smart, but that is part of the DIY component.

Just as an aside, you are lookong for something to fit Sched 80. The kit I sell is made from Sched 120. This gives you a thicker sidewall so you have more to drill into when attaching the latch. The Sched 80 is overkill as far as pressure goes but if you use Sched 120, you will be able to drill and tap screw holes and not have to pierce the wall of the canister so no chance of a leak there. The price of sched 120 is about 30 per foot compared to less than $5 per foot of sched 80 but I think it makes a better canister (Just my opinion).

Steve

 

[MrSpock]

For the money, I don't think you will get it any smoother. The lids were machined using a CNC machine. If they are to be polished, that would be another step and more money. Not to sound smart, but that is part of the DIY component.

No complaints, Steve. Just if your CNC mill machinist tweak the process a little (use other bit, sharpen the bit, slower forward speed, etc.), the surface could be smoother without additional operations. It's just really hard to do evenly by hand in such a tight place.

Just as an aside, you are lookong for something to fit Sched 80. The kit I sell is made from Sched 120. This gives you a thicker sidewall so you have more to drill into when attaching the latch. The Sched 80 is overkill as far as pressure goes but if you use Sched 120, you will be able to drill and tap screw holes and not have to pierce the wall of the canister so no chance of a leak there. The price of sched 120 is about 30 per foot compared to less than $5 per foot of sched 80 but I think it makes a better canister (Just my opinion).

Yeah, absolutely! I asked for the SCH 120 pipes, nobody even heard of them! But for my new light I need slightly larger inner diameter. I want to use either 14 C-size batteries or 9 or 12 D-size (dunno yet - will depend on the LED config). If I were building a light for Li-Ion batteries - it's a no brainer! I'd get your kit for sure.

BTW: I left some comments on your new batch thread. Hope it will help you finding enough people.

Thanks again!