diy dive light canister, less expensive option

[Couv]

Hey Packhorse,

How about some pictures of this process for us dummies?

Thank you,

Couv

 

[350xfire]

For the lid, buy flat sheet and cut circles out, one smaller than the other. Then laminate them together.

 

[350xfire]

Its surprisingly easy. Get a piece of A4 paper and wrap it around your pipe. Line the paper up so the edges meet. This will give you a true line to cut. Mark with a pencil or marker. Remove paper and cut on the line with a hacksaw. Rotate the pipe as you cut into it. The result will be a pipe with a end that has a good right angle to it. Next lay a piece of sand paper on a smooth flat surface and hold the pipe end against it flat and move backwards and forwards rotaing it every few strokes. You will soon end up with a nice flat level surface.

You can also use a stainless steel hose clamp as a guide. Also, you can use a band saw.

 

[350xfire]

True, but you need equipment to machine the lid and pipe mating surfaces to a pretty smooth finish in order for a tight sealing. Any ideas on how to do that without the need for high precision equipment?
I tried the PVC pipe approach first and had a really hard time getting the lid and pipe surfaces to line up 'perfectly'...I used a dremel and sand paper, not very precise.

If you want, give me the dimensions of the pipe you need and I'll get you a perfectly cut piece done with my bandsaw for cheap.

 

[martzak]

350xfire, thank you for the advice and the offer. I just might take you up on it. The DIY person that I am though, I have to give it another try myself.

Lastly, for the lid, do you cut it out of a flat, thick sheet of lexan or something?

Thanks again.

 

[Codiak]

You could always go with an OMS Canister, though your choice of battery might have to change.

OMS Backplate & Harness Accessories http://www.OMSdive.com

 

[oxyhacker]

You can build a dirt cheap, no-machining canister with a bit of PVC pipe, a cap, and a "test plug", which is a rubber and plastic plug made for blocking off pipes temporarily for testing. McMaster Carr has them. Total cost should be under $10. There's a picture of one in the "Gallery" section of the Airspeed Press webpage.

Depending on pipe size, you can fit just about any size battery you like. SLAs still have a lot of bang for the buck.

 

[350xfire]

350xfire, thank you for the advice and the offer. I just might take you up on it. The DIY person that I am though, I have to give it another try myself.

Lastly, for the lid, do you cut it out of a flat, thick sheet of lexan or something?

Thanks again.

I use PVC. Order it from an industrial supply store that carries pipe or McMaster Carr. You can go 1/4 in on the bottom and 1/2 on top or just do 1/2 on both.

 

[antero]

....
Lastly, for the lid, do you cut it out of a flat, thick sheet of lexan or something?

You can buy Lexan sheet in Home Depot or your other local hardware store. The sheet of
3/16" thick 2x2 feet would be something like $16. Then you have to use manual
fret-saw and lubricate it w/machine mineral oil otherwise lexan will melt and you will
have a hard time w/it.

Cut 3 circles - one just less than inner PVC pipe diameter, other 2 must be larger than
the outside diameter to allow the latch-locks height that later will be installed at the
end of a PVC pipe. I would leave 3/16" height which makes it the outside diameter
of the PVC pipe plus 3/8" (I use stainless steel spring loaded Nielsen locks).

All these 3 circles now must be assembled together w/acryllic cement. I suggest to
use the liquid special acryllic cement and not the multipurpose one found in the PVC
plumbing section. Before you glue it you have to sand your coasters because
they will have some rough edges after a fret-saw. I use a belt sander for that.

So you glue it together, clamp and leave it for a night to cure. Now you have to find
a proper size o-ring as soft as you can get (I have had a bad luck finding a soft one
so I used something like EPDM or even Buna). When you will be drilling for screws and
cable gland - be very careful as Lexan cracks very easily, use high rpms on your drill-press
and start with a smaller drill bit. When you install screws (stainless steel I presume) -
make sure you drill proper size pilot holes - the damn thing will crack!

Did I mention Lexan is very fragile ? Well it is also more flexible than you would want it
so I would rather get a sheet of 1/4 delrin instead. It is an awesome material
and it does not seem too much more expensive after you broke few lids
which were "almost ready". The problem with delring though - you cannot find a cheap
cement to glue it so you will have to put pieces together using screws or
other hardware. But w/delrin you can easily get away with just two pieces - Delrin is almost
as strong as aluminum. What else is there besides delrin? ABS is awesome, you can glue it
easily but it is a very expensive material. PVC-2 is good but also expensive and hard to
find. Don`t use HDPE for lids. HDPE is way too flexible for lids.

I'm not allowed to post urls links here so if you want so get more info and pictures you may try yefimovs.com.

Good luck,
ARY

 

[350xfire]

My lathe will be here soon grasshoppers... 10x22 Grizzly!!! I will see what I can do to produce some lids and canisters for the masses at a reasonable price.