diy dive light canister, less expensive option

[Packhorse]

Hey Packhorse,

How about some pictures of this process for us dummies?

Thank you,

Couv

Sure.

Place paper around pipe and line it up straight. Mark with a pen.
Use a hacksaw to cut the pipe. Make a few cuts then rotate the pipe 10 degrees or so and make a few more. You should have to rotate the pipe 3 complete revolutions before you cut all the way through.

Place a sheet of sand paper on a flat surface and work the pipe back and forwards and around and around until all the saw marks have gone. Rotating the pipe every few stokes. More to a finer grit sand paper and repeat. This will give you a nice flat even surface suitable for O ring sealing.

Making the end cap is a little more difficult but still doable with out a lathe.
Use two pieces of PVC. One the ID and the other the OD of the pipe. Glue them together with PVC cement then glue it into the base of the pipe. The lid can be made in the same fashion or get your local plastic merchant to make one out of acrylic.

I am working on a rotating collar reed switch at the moment. Will post instructions when I am finished.
But some pics for now. ( Yes I did use a lathe but you can do it with out).

 

[MrSpock]

rotating collar reed switch

Brilliant!!!! Thanks Packhorse for the idea!!!!

 

[HEFFAY]

I recognize those latches!

 

[HEFFAY]

Here is my take on the reed switch. Pretty hackish but it works. I had all but a few hours to finish it up before a dive and this is what I came up with.

It's just some automotive bungee from walmart, a little webbing for the loop and a magnet on the inside. All screwed together with a nut and bolt. To switch between modes, I use the loop to pull it out away from the canister briefly and put it back down.

Never mind the ugly glue job, it's a long story.

 

[Black Red]

Hi Packhorse,
Thanks for those photos! Helps explain all the words that I have been reading.

Can you briefly tell me how I should secure the latches to the cyclinder?
I'm thinking if I screw it in, that would damage the cylinder and induce water at depth.

I have not try building a light but would love to attempt one.
I begin, by reading and imagining the process, or at least once I'm sure I can get all the materials and methods, I will give it a try.

 

[Packhorse]

The walls are 7mm thick. Use 6mm screws.

 

[350xfire]

Or cut a small section of pipe to glue it inside the canister to double up the thickness.

Packhorse, what type screws do you use?

 

[Packhorse]

I uses M3x 6mm stainless steel bolts. Drilled a 2mm pilot hole then screwed them in letting them tap their own hole.
I was a little concerned that they may not hold the load but I really didnt want to glue a piece of plastic on the inside that could possibly no seal.
I may try putting a little JB weld between the can and latches although I dont know how well it holds to PVC.

 

[MrSpock]

So, DIWdiver, 350xfire, are you making lids or not? I need 2 for 3" Sched 80, delrin, PVC or polycarbonate. 3/4" - 1" thick. If you can make them I'll provide exact dimensions and drawing. PM me if you want to take it offline. Thanks!

 

[DIWdiver]

So, DIWdiver, 350xfire, are you making lids or not? I need 2 for 3" Sched 80, delrin, PVC or polycarbonate. 3/4" - 1" thick. If you can make them I'll provide exact dimensions and drawing. PM me if you want to take it offline. Thanks!

Mr Spock -

I'd be happy to make you whatever lids you want, but as you seem to be the only one interested, you'd have to cover the full cost of the materials. My earlier posts have covered what I expect those to be.

If you can generate some more interest, or suggest a better supplier, the costs could be less.

AFAIK, your best option for just two lids would be McMaster Carr, 3/4" PVC, about $20 materials (enough to make 4, shipped), $10 each for labor, shipping from me to you, add $15 lot charge if you want the M16 thread. For 1" material, a couple bucks more.

Any time you want to say go, just send me the specifics of what you want.

D