Diving watches

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No, I meant "lefthander's watch" (i.e., watch for southpaws). We lefthanders often wear our watches on our right wrists. I was looking at the "wrong-sided" crown. The Sinn website just explained it to me, though: "Crown on the left side of the case to prevent pressure on the back of the hand".

rx7diver
I think Citizen makes a few lefties.
 
1. From my understanding, many diving agencies don't teach the US Navy Dive Tables anymore.

2. Following the profile set on dive tables is VERY different than real life scenarios and real time algorithm adaptation. These differences can be crucial while at depth and in DECO situations and you know as well as I do that you cannot predict using the US ND tables the actual seabed nor your actual exact depth at all times. This means, IF you've planned your dive to 28m, you need to stay at 28m for the whole dive right? Problem is, you have a DC so you are following the rest of the divers and now your dive computer "fails" mid-dive so you have no idea what calculations apply anymore... OR you've planned your whole dive based on your max depth, you follow it religiously, you are obviously separated from the rest of the group and your bottom time is greatly reduced as a bonus. Nice.

3. You must also be taking notes UW on your slate right? Your dive watch bezel can only be used for one thing at the time... so let's say NO DECO to make a point. Did you noted down your NO DECO stop exactly at the point your DC failed...
I'm a little confused about your insistence that only the US Navy Tables must be used to make a watch an effective backup to a dive computer. Here's what I do before every dive... no table necessary, but allows me to use my watch:

--> Prior to the dive, I use my dive computers "plan" function. I check to see my NDL at a range of depths, usually 50 to 90 feet, but it depends on the dive plan. These values are, more or less, the same as what a dive table would tell me... but I don't need to carry a table. They're right there, in the plan function of my dive computer.

--> I remember these numbers. It's not complicated.

--> When I hit the water, I set my dive watch timer to zero.

--> IF my dive computer was to fail (hasn't happened yet), I could still use my dive watch with the NDL value for the greatest depth I'd reached on that dive, to continue the dive.

If you've never used the plan function on your dive computer, I highly recommend it... it's very useful. You're welcome.
 
Since we're sharing dive watch recommendations, this one is mine (it's a stock pic...) but I swapped the band for a gray NATO:

orange ballistic diver.jpg


It's a Freestyle Ballistic DIver that I bought used off Ebay for about $30. I've changed the battery once over the years; it's been with me on hundreds of dives with no problem.

I used to think about buying a really expensive dive watch, and then I read Sheck Exley's book... and his trusty $20 Casio digital watch. I realized there's a lot of value in a cheap, reliable watch: it does what I need, and I'm not worried about losing it (as I would be, constantly, with an expensive watch.)
 
IF you belong to that small category that really plans your dives in addition to using a dive computer, my answer is the same as previously: Congrats.
Or... uses your dive computer to plan your dives.

Planning dives and using a dive computer are not mutually exclusive.
 
I am thinking same thing every damn day, should I sell it?🤣
It's a lot easier to get the attention you crave by sticking with a Sub, Gucci tracksuit and gold chains. Think about how uncomfortable it will be wearing that CCR all the time. Plus you will have to leave the price tags on it so people will know what it cost and can respect you accordingly. Kinda hard getting in and out of your Rover or Plaid with a CCR on your back versus a luxurious cotton-poly blend tracksuit.
 
It's a lot easier to get the attention you crave by sticking with a Sub, Gucci tracksuit and gold chains. Think about how uncomfortable it will be wearing that CCR all the time. Plus you will have to leave the price tags on it so people will know what it cost and can respect you accordingly. Kinda hard getting in and out of your Rover or Plaid with a CCR on your back versus a luxurious cotton-poly blend tracksuit.
There are levels in life as there are way easier and cheaper ways of getting attention... like buying Halcyon gear and being the multicolored clown on a Live Board.
 
Since we're sharing.... :) Nice dive watches can be subdued, but VERY reliable. This is my 1967 Tudor Submariner my father gave me. This was his team watch when he was in the military back in the 60's. I wear it every day and it still keeps perfect time, but it's much too valuable (sentimentally and value wise) to dive with it. I like my high end and low end G-Shocks that can take a beating and don't cost $15k! LOL BTW - This watch was $200 new back in 1967!


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