Info Diving and Seamanship

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

OMG! That one deserves being in the “need to know” list. Not so much the name but where they are and how to close them!

To expand a little, there are lots of pipes and tubes that penetrate the hull below the waterline. As Eric said, a “seacock” or valve is attached directly to each through-hull fitting. The other side of the valve is most often connected to where it is needed with a flexible hose — engine cooling water (supply and returns), sewage discharge, bilge pumps, etc.

Hoses eventually fail, which causes the boat to take on water… as in sinking! Several people onboard need to know where the sea cocks are and how to close them when the bilge alarm starts going off. Oh yeah, you also need to learn what a bilge alarm(s) sounds like so you don’t assume the reefer (refrigerator) door has been open too long.

Also on the “need to know” list is how to deal with a fire. Find the fire extinguishers and learn how to use them… unless of course you feel like swimming home. :wink:

There’s a lot more to know about boat diving than a giant stride and a back roll.

Excuse me Captain, where are your fuel shut offs?

---------- Post added July 1st, 2014 at 10:15 AM ----------

You have to wonder how much longer before the watch commander just walks up to the console and punches the numbers into the GPS-enabled autopilot like a lot of commercial vessels. I can see announcing the change to keep everyone on the bridge in the loop but it sure eliminates time lags and potential human errors.

I was never on a ship that was underway in a group, in the Navy or offshore. How does the leading vessel get the word out to others to change course?

I was USN for a very few years back in the old days (70's) but a variety of methods of signaling, from Talk Between Ships short range radio to flashing light or signal flags. Also, sounding the horn. I suppose now they can send a IM or e-mail :D as well.
 
If you are out on boats long enough someone is going to ask you to help tie the boat to the dock, for that you need a simple cleat hitch.

Cleat Hitch by Pro-Knot
 
I noticed that your cleat hitch instructions and the one in my OP, don’t illustrate how to make the final “twist” on the cleat like an old salt. This video should help even the most “knot challenged” diver look good:

How to Tie a Cleat Hitch - YouTube

[video=youtube;VMwXjckgiOs]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VMwXjckgiOs[/video]
And to take it one step further, here's what you do with the rest of the rope on the dock:
There's a reason for this. Not only does it look tidy but it's also a safety protocol. If line is strewn all over the dock in a hap hazard fashion it's more likely to trip somebody up and possibly make them fall in the water. When line is wound as shown it sits flat and can be stepped on like a flat pad, with boat/dock shoes or dive booties of course, not construction or cowboy boots.


images
 
Last edited:
I noticed that your cleat hitch instructions and the one in my OP, don’t illustrate how to make the final “twist” on the cleat like an old salt. This video should help even the most “knot challenged” diver look good:

How to Tie a Cleat Hitch - YouTube

[video=youtube;VMwXjckgiOs]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VMwXjckgiOs[/video]

The one I put up showed line being run under at the end but did not show the twist which is the most common and more correct way to do this. Another thing to know about line is that any knot, hitch or splice you put in it will reduce the safe working load of that line. The overhand knot (the most commonly used and worst knot to use) will reduce the safe working load by 55%. The best would be a short splice that will only reduce the safe working load by 10%. The safe working load of a line is about half the load it will take to break that line. When a line is getting close to breaking you will see it start to wring water and when it is about to break you will see it start smoking.
 
And to take it one step further, here's what you do with the rest of the rope on the dock:
There's a reason for this. Not only does it look tidy but it's also a safety protocol. If line is strewn all over the dock in a hap hazard fashion it's more likely to trip somebody up and possibly make them fall in the water. When line is wound as shown it sits flat and can be stepped on like a flat pad, with boat/dock shoes or dive booties of course, not construction or cowboy boots.


images

The problem with that type of coiling is it will be twisted and hard to uncoil without untwisting it. Better to figure 8 wrap it.
 
The problem with that type of coiling is it will be twisted and hard to uncoil without untwisting it. Better to figure 8 wrap it.

For a permanent docking line like this I would have made a eye splice that attached to the cleat and had no left over line to either coil or wrap.
 
On the subject of ropes...a cautionary word to your non boaty friends about the dangers of ropes is always good. Have seen too many people standing in coils of ropes totally oblivious to the dangers - Ive crewed on boats with skippers who have lost fingers to ropes and a young merchant seaman last week lost a leg due to poor rope management so a gentle reminder about ropes may just save someones life or body bits.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

Back
Top Bottom