Dive Lights..What do you use and why??

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AUL/Sartec HID 10 watt,kingpelican,britelite and super-sabres as back-ups.HIDs rule and super-sabre are indestructible and simple.The rest were learning experiences.
 
I just picked up the SL4 at a local flee market. I got it because it was Small enough to fit in my pocket, cheap, and extreamly brite.

Illuminatingly,

SpyderTek
 
Thanks to the 'enlightening' comments from the previous responses, I just ordered an Ikelite PCa from Leisure Pro for $26.31 ($18.95 + $7.36 shipping).

I'll try and provide a review following my trip to Cancun/Cozumel next month.

My former light was an Underwater Kinetics Mini Q40. Worked OK for daytime dives in caverns and wrecks, but just didn't have enough brightness. That and the fact that I left batteries in too long after my last dive. (Doh . . . )
 
Primary is the Shock Wave and back up Ika Lite Pca. For almost all dives in the daylight I carry the back up light. I reserve the primary for night or other dives requiring light continuously. I had a Princenton Tek that flooded when I was at Ginnie Springs, my fault as I turned the wrong direction and flooded it. It works but, I don't want to trust it.
 
For caving I have a home-made canister light - two 7aH lead acid gelcells, 50 watt head. I carry two Ikelite PC's as backups.
For open water I use an 8 "D" King Pelican and an Ikelite PC as backup (daytime open water I carry an Ikelite PC).
Why? They still work.
Rick
 
with HID head and one battery. I need to get another canister with two batteries ("wreck II") for cave diving. The wreck light is small enough to fly with me to Cozumel for night dives where it blows everybody else' lights out of the water. The DM's down there call it "The Beeg Light".

I have on EE Scout and want another for a backup. I've got a Dive Rite backup until I get the other Scout.
 
Shane and I have EE Pro4 10wHID canister lights.

Why these? Focusable, extreme brightness, white color punches past particles in water, excellent burn time, excellent construction, excellent factory support.

Why? We use them for passive communication and active signalling. We know where each other is by the narrow far reaching beams without having to swivel our necks around constantly trying to keep track of one another. We can use light signals for most communication needs.

We also use scout backup lights (Shane's are knock-offs) and I have one 7-LED backup light.

Why these? The scouts & clones do not over drive the bulb and have excellent longevity and durability. They have stubs on the end for attaching a bolt-snap and lay comfortably along the chest straps tuck well out of the way. The rotating bezel switch is bulletproof and the beam is non-focusable. The 7-LED is a very long duration light that is foolproof but unfocusable and I probably should change it out for another Scout... but I have it and it is all paid for now.

Why? In case the primary (HID) light should ever fail we have backups that can be turned on before unclipping from the D-ring. These lights (especially the LED) can be left clipped and used to read gauges during ascent on a night dive where the HID would be too bright. They also make us look very DIR and complete the
ensemble. ;)
 
Originally posted by Uncle Pug
Shane and I have EE Pro4 10wHID canister lights.
We also use scout backup lights (Shane's are knock-offs) and I have one 7-LED backup light.
You guys are turnin' me green... none of this stuff even existed when I put together my current light suite - I went for quality - everything still works... can't junk it...
Anybody wanna buy some old [excellent quality] lights so I can join the HID/LED revolution?
Please..??
Rick
 

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