DIN v. Yoke! Fight!

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I really hope ALL dive operators would use those dual functions pillar valve on the tank.
An extra O-ring for the yoke connection though.
 
Lots of (all?) the DIN valves come with the yoke insert though, so really is just a matter of an extra o-ring that cost next to nothing..
 
Lots of (all?) the DIN valves come with the yoke insert ...

I can confirm that the H 300 BAR manifolds/single tank valves are DIN-only. The depth of the valves are too deep to fit a yoke over. IIRC, only the 232 Bar DIN manifolds/single tank valves with the shallower thread depth will work with the "convertible" yoke inserts.
 
Good point.
But then again thats not really common rental tanks anyways. Infact its not all that common tanks at all for scuba, atleast not around here.
 
The convertible valves are very common around here, because they're standard on the 3442 special permit tanks, which include HP100s. But rental and/or charter tanks with the convertible valves could be even worse than straight DIN valves, because the convertible tanks have unprotected threads on the plug. Imagine what those would look like after a season or two of diving if they were not removed periodically.

I think a big part of the confusion about DIN/yoke stems from the perspective of the individual diver who owns a DIN tank, cares for it, and likes the design, then has problems on a dive trip with a yoke tank that's been abused on a boat, commercial filling station, back of the truck with 50 other tanks, etc....every day for years.
 
I think a big part of the confusion about DIN/yoke stems from the perspective of the individual diver who owns a DIN tank, cares for it, and likes the design, then has problems on a dive trip with a yoke tank that's been abused on a boat, commercial filling station, back of the truck with 50 other tanks, etc....every day for years.
I just bought the tap for the DIN because one of my tanks was dropped on a boat and the valve was damaged. I think it was a Brittish 5/8" straight pipe and it resolved my problem pretty quick. I had at least one other tank that had become hard to hook into as well and the tap straightened that right up too.
 
The convertible valves are very common around here, because they're standard on the 3442 special permit tanks, which include HP100s. But rental and/or charter tanks with the convertible valves could be even worse than straight DIN valves, because the convertible tanks have unprotected threads on the plug. Imagine what those would look like after a season or two of diving if they were not removed periodically.

I think a big part of the confusion about DIN/yoke stems from the perspective of the individual diver who owns a DIN tank, cares for it, and likes the design, then has problems on a dive trip with a yoke tank that's been abused on a boat, commercial filling station, back of the truck with 50 other tanks, etc....every day for years.

I agree. I have seen very few rentals AL 80 in the Caribbean with convertible valves. That is probably a very good thing, because the few that I have seen did not look like the insert could be removed easily, due to corrosion.

I am not a real big fan of convertible valves. For the most part they work fine, but I have seen a couple where the outer surface of the insert was not lining up as it should. It actually got worse if you tighten up the insert. Most of them work well, but occasionally you need to replace the insert.

I just bought the tap for the DIN because one of my tanks was dropped on a boat and the valve was damaged. I think it was a Brittish 5/8" straight pipe and it resolved my problem pretty quick. I had at least one other tank that had become hard to hook into as well and the tap straightened that right up too.

That was probably the only thing you could do to try to save the valves. The bad news is that chrome plating on the threads is now compromised or totally gone. The live of the threads has now been shortened. The exposed brass can also collect more grit than the original plated threads.

The worst part is that any corrosion on the threads can scratch the finish on the mating threads of the regulator.
You probably planned on replacing your regulators (or the threaded ring) before this becomes a major issue, but I recommend you keep a nylon brush handy and keep the threads clean.

Is the tap that you use a thread chaser (thread repair tool) or a regular cutting tap?
Where did you get it?
 
I just bought the tap for the DIN because one of my tanks was dropped on a boat and the valve was damaged. I think it was a Brittish 5/8" straight pipe and it resolved my problem pretty quick. I had at least one other tank that had become hard to hook into as well and the tap straightened that right up too.

We repaired a damaged DIN valve using a SS DIN plug as a tap. We just put the plug in as far as we could by and and finished it off with a wrench. We figured the worst that could happen was that it wouldn't work, but it did.
 
Ive used removable din inserts in the caribbean as well as the middle east and them being on a rental tank has not made it an issue either to remove them or put yoke valves on them, beyond the typical need of changing o-rings every now and then..
 
Never heard that before...If i were starting out.. I would buy DIN and use the adapter when traveling. I have 15 regs (and 20 tanks) all yoke and it would be a pain to switch. DIN is safer.

I agree with DumpsterDiver. Switched to DIN about a year ago and have been much happier. I bring the yoke adapter when I think that DIN tanks will not be available.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

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