DIN or Yoke first stage?

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Scubanomad

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Upgrading my current regulator to the more travel light Mares Carbon 52. Most of my diving is currently in Asia and while in the U.S. Caribbean, with all tanks being yoke valves. Being employed currently in the U.S. I decided to get a more travel light Reg the Carbon 52 which is also good for cold water diving. Once I move back to Europe I like to dive the lakes again in Austria and Bavaria Germany. Given that should I just buy the DIN valve now and dive with a "converter" in Asia or can I later "refit" my first stage with a DIN valve outfit? Thanks.
 
You can do either. The DIN fitting is just an insert.

I think there can be no doubt that DIN is a more secure fitting and there are compelling reasons to prefer it.

R..
 
Din regulators can be adapted to fit yoke tanks with a din to yoke adapter as you know. I would get the DIN regulator and buy an adapter. This way you can dive whichever type of tank you encounter. A din first stage converted to yoke is slightly larger than a native yoke first stage. I don't believe there are any other drawbacks except the cost of the adapter its-self.

That's what I did. I'm glad I did it.

On the other hand, you can buy a din to yoke insert. I've got a growing collection, as they came with all 6 of my tanks. This installs in the tank valve, to convert the tank to yoke. You could carry these in order to use a yoke first stage if you had one and encountered a DIN tank.


I believe a DIN regulator connected to a DIN tank is more secure. It probably only matters if you're doing cave diving or wreck penetrations where you're likely to bang the first stage on something hard while diving.

On a DIN setup, the O-Ring is part of the regulator. This means it gets inspected (and probably replaced) when your regulator is serviced. With yoke, it's part of the tank. Rental tanks generally only get a replacement o-ring when the ring fails completely. I've never had an O-Ring failure on DIN, but I've seen numerous failures on yoke tanks.
 
On a DIN setup, the O-Ring is part of the regulator. This means it gets inspected (and probably replaced) when your regulator is serviced. With yoke, it's part of the tank. Rental tanks generally only get a replacement o-ring when the ring fails completely. I've never had an O-Ring failure on DIN, but I've seen numerous failures on yoke tanks.

thanks.... already knew this.... was just debating if the insert is another way I should go. BUT NO will have to call SCUBA.com to ensure they ship me a DIN first stage. Scuba stuff in the USA is CHEAP.. hence I prefer to buy it there once I'm employed there, BUT its a PAIN to get all the right proper stuff. Thanks for the input. Note in calendar "call Scuba.com Monday to request the change" :)

---------- Post added March 15th, 2014 at 10:03 PM ----------

curious how is that different when most operators in the Caribbean and Asia use Yoke type tanks? Meaning even if I use a DIN first stage (which has MY O-Ring) and then MY adapter to Yoke valve to the "crappy O=Ring on the rental tank" I will still have a leak .... NO?

On a DIN setup, the O-Ring is part of the regulator. This means it gets inspected (and probably replaced) when your regulator is serviced. With yoke, it's part of the tank. Rental tanks generally only get a replacement o-ring when the ring fails completely. I've never had an O-Ring failure on DIN, but I've seen numerous failures on yoke tanks.


---------- Post added March 15th, 2014 at 10:06 PM ----------

my original question still wasn't answered... Can a Yoke first stage valve LATER be re-fitted with a DIN valve utilizing of course a (in my case a authorized Mares dealer)?
 


my original question still wasn't answered... Can a Yoke first stage valve LATER be re-fitted with a DIN valve utilizing of course a (in my case a authorized Mares dealer)?

Yes. Unless the reg is very old.

It's just a matter of screwing the yoke fitting out of the first stage and replacing it with a DIN fitting.

R..
 
If you are going to buy a reg set why not order the DIN or yoke conversion kit at the same time. It is probably cheaper that way than buying later. Then you can change to whatever connector type for the tanks you are using where you are living. If you are using DIN and need to use a yoke tank for some reason you can use a DIN to yoke adapter, they are nice to have just in case.
 
Din regulators can be adapted to fit yoke tanks with a din to yoke adapter as you know. I would get the DIN regulator and buy an adapter. This way you can dive whichever type of tank you encounter. A din first stage converted to yoke is slightly larger than a native yoke first stage. I don't believe there are any other drawbacks except the cost of the adapter its-self.
Well, you do end up with two o-rings between the valve and the reg instead of just one, which doubles the number of failure points. Not much of an issue IMO, but worth pointing out.

On the other hand, you can buy a din to yoke insert. I've got a growing collection, as they came with all 6 of my tanks. This installs in the tank valve, to convert the tank to yoke. You could carry these in order to use a yoke first stage if you had one and encountered a DIN tank.
This only works on valves that were designed to be converted in this way. If you have a native DIN-only valve, then this won't work (especially if it's a 300 bar valve).
 
Most of my personal tanks are DIN and all but a few of my regulators are DIN. I greatly prefer it. Can't remember the last time an o-ring blew on me. I do have both the inserts to convert yoke-to-DIN and the adapter as well for DIN-to-yoke. I carry the adapter when I travel. No big deal.
 
If you are going to buy a reg set why not order the DIN or yoke conversion kit at the same time. It is probably cheaper that way than buying later. Then you can change to whatever connector type for the tanks you are using where you are living. If you are using DIN and need to use a yoke tank for some reason you can use a DIN to yoke adapter, they are nice to have just in case.

This would be my recommendation as well. DIN to yoke adaptors are a bit of a PITA and defeats the purpose of getting a light weight travel reg.

Here is a link to the DIN portion. Notice the DIN threads on one side and the other threads which go into the reg:

Divers Discount Florida - Mares MR52 Din Conversion Kit - High Quality Diving Equipment at a Discount

The yoke assembly that holds the yoke in place has similar threads for the reg side.

If you switch back and forth it is best to have a thin walled socket for removing yoke (the DIN use a hex wrench).

1" Yoke Nut Socket

Using an adjustable wrench will lead to damage in most cases.

Finally, make sure you get a std. DIN and not of the new EU DIN for nitrox.
 
you are right... "adaptors are usually a PITA" .....and defeats the purpose of getting a light weight travel reg. " Since most of my diving is done right now with Yoke type tanks, in fact I never even seen a DIN tank except in Austria lake diving. PS: I always rent my tanks.
If I had my own tanks then it would be a different story. But for now I probably take the Yoke and since you confirmed I can later re-fit my MR52 into a DIN valve there is no need to carry a adaptor around that may get lost and adds additional weight. Thanks guys for the multiple suggestions


This would be my recommendation as well. DIN to yoke adaptors are a bit of a PITA and defeats the purpose of getting a light weight travel reg.

Here is a link to the DIN portion. Notice the DIN threads on one side and the other threads which go into the reg:

Divers Discount Florida - Mares MR52 Din Conversion Kit - High Quality Diving Equipment at a Discount

The yoke assembly that holds the yoke in place has similar threads for the reg side.

If you switch back and forth it is best to have a thin walled socket for removing yoke (the DIN use a hex wrench).

1" Yoke Nut Socket

Using an adjustable wrench will lead to damage in most cases.

Finally, make sure you get a std. DIN and not of the new EU DIN for nitrox.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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