DIN and Yoke..1st stage modifications

[divermatt]

You know that saying that the more you learn about a subject, the more you realize how little of topic you really, really know? I need a bit of help here, but I'm sure that this has been covered before. Sorry. I have a Sherwood 1st stage and Sherwood Oasis 2nd stage. The 1st stage is a yoke. I purchased 2 DIN tanks today, and was told by a VERY reliable source that my 1st stage can be altered to be primarily a DIN reg. My source explained that they just have to take off the yoke part and fit in a DIN in its place.
I guess my mis-conception was that yoke regs were only configured for pressure below 3000 PSI. Perhaps I was wrong.
So can I make a change to my reg to make it a DIN regulator? Are there any performace changes I should expect? Is this a cheap substitute, or a true modification that will not affect performance/reliability???

As always, thanks to my more experienced friends!

 

[KMD]

They are talking about the yoke assembly being "rated" for 3000psi and not the 1st stage.

Correct me if I'm wrong (and I am sure people will) but I believe modern 1st stages will support 300 bar fills.

Kevin

 

[ScubaSixString]

You know that saying that the more you learn about a subject, the more you realize how little of topic you really, really know? I need a bit of help here, but I'm sure that this has been covered before. Sorry. I have a Sherwood 1st stage and Sherwood Oasis 2nd stage. The 1st stage is a yoke. I purchased 2 DIN tanks today, and was told by a VERY reliable source that my 1st stage can be altered to be primarily a DIN reg. My source explained that they just have to take off the yoke part and fit in a DIN in its place.
I guess my mis-conception was that yoke regs were only configured for pressure below 3000 PSI. Perhaps I was wrong.
So can I make a change to my reg to make it a DIN regulator? Are there any performace changes I should expect? Is this a cheap substitute, or a true modification that will not affect performance/reliability???

As always, thanks to my more experienced friends!

They, that mysterious dive shop called they, sell DIN kits for most yoke regs. Installing one, from what i understand, requires removing the yoke fittings and installing the kit. That makes your reg DIN. You can buy a yoke adapter to make a DIN reg fit yoke tanks.

I'm not sure here, but if your tanks are 200 BAR and not 300, you can buy DIN plugs, which will enable you to use your yoke rig. My manifold is 200 bar with plugs.

 

[sidis8]

heres the din kit


http://www.leisurepro.com/Prod/SWDDA.html

 

[porsc]

i don't mean this to sound offensive, but why would you buy a tank, when most places include tanks and wt.s in the dive price? ...and it's not like you can travel with it anymore. sorry, i'm just curious.

 

[mattroz]

So he can dive locally.. Most of us don't just dive on vacation.. It's nice to be able to meet your buddy at the dive site with your tank already full and not pay for a charter..

 

[spectrum]

i don't mean this to sound offensive, but why would you buy a tank, when most places include tanks and wt.s in the dive price? ...and it's not like you can travel with it anymore. sorry, i'm just curious.

Why own cylinders?
So he can dive locally at will, and save some $$ assuming he is an active diver. Between my wife and I we have well opver 100 dives, all on our own 6 cylinders. And sometimes that's not enough! Since we prefer to dive steel cylinders it's also the way to go since most rentals are only AL80s.

We both dive 2005 Blizzards bought as DIN and that's what we dive for cylinders. The connector assembly is swapped from the regulator body to make it a DIN unit. I know that the current Blizzards are good to go with a full length 300 BAR din connector.

For travel a yoke adapter can be purchased which provides a yoke hook-up. Since you already have the yoke connectors you can also consider swapping the connectors if you'll need yoke very rarely for trips. If you go this route be sure to get coached by the LDS or let them do it. The torques need to be right to avoid damage or failure. This is all done without "entering" the first stage.

If the valves are Thermo brand and have a dimple oposite from the opening where the yoke screw would seat then it may be a PRO valve that will accept inserts making it a yoke capable valve. Check with your LDS.

Pete

 

[scubaclimber]

divermatt,

What is the pressure of the tanks you bought?

 

[oxyhacker]

Most regulator manufacturers make the same regulator in yoke and din versions, the only difference being the part that connnects it to the valve. To convert a regulator, you or your LDS removes the yoke parts and installs the DIN parts. It just takes a minute or two, and it will perform exactly the same afterwards. You end up with exactly the same regulator as you would have if you'd bought the DIN version in the first place. You (if you are wise) keep the yoke parts so you can switch back in the future if you ever need to.

As to pressure ratings, that is more complicated but current usage based on the euro ISO standards allows yokes up to 3442 psi. However US usage limited yokes to 3000, more or less, and many dive texts still give the lower figure. And some US manfucturers used to sell 3300 psi yoke valved tanks even as they limited their yoke regs to 3000 psi. So confusion is understandable.

So can I make a change to my reg to make it a DIN regulator? Are there any performace changes I should expect? Is this a cheap substitute, or a true modification that will not affect performance/reliability???

As always, thanks to my more experienced friends!

 

[divermatt]

The tanks are 100 cu foot, 3498 PSI for those of you who wanted specs. Besides being more convienient for local dives, I picked up an additional 20 cubic feet of air--most rentals are al 80s. Also, diving in a part of the world where weight is needed, a heavy tank means less lead.
Thanks everyone for all your input.