"De-tuning" a valve knob.

[Boogie711]

Dumb question time.

I have a tank (Faber LP95 with a Thermo 200 Bar Din valve) which has a really sensitive knob.

Just the slightest touch will turn the air on, with some force. You have to really be careful with it if you just want a trickle of air leaking out.

I've lost a tank of air when it was rolling around in my pickup, just because it rolled on against my pool noodle tank-carrier.

So - (here's the part with the dumb question...) how do I rig my valve so that I have a half-turn or so of play before the air comes on?

 

[Genesis]

The "sensitivity" of the valve is pretty much controlled by the material the seat is made of, and what it seals against.

Most tank valves are pretty simple things. You ideally want a "slow" one (that turns on slowly), but "slop" from off to start of flow is not necessarily good.

I know of no good way to do what you're looking to accomplish.

 

[FredT]

If there is as small annular between the handle and the packing protrusion on the valve you can place an o-ring or rubber band on the protrusion under the handle to provide a "drag" on the handle. Some handles have a bit of clearance, others dont'. Finding the correct size ring or band may be a bit of trial and error though.

FT

 

[Boogie711]

I just want a nice, slow handle that I can carry back and forth from my truck without worrying about forcing air into my skin.

Just the slightest crack sends the air rushing out, so I can't carry it in my right hand - I'm worried about having my palm next to the valve orifice and what affect compressed air would have.

I'll probably have to live with this one until it's next vis, then. Maybe when the valve is off, I can poke around at it. (Or swipe it with someone elses when they're not looking. )

 

[FredT]

You should carry any tank with the orifice AWAY from your palm!

Really easy turning can also be stiffenened up by cleaning and degreasing the packing. If done carefully this does not require draining the tank. It does require paying close attention when the packing nut is removed to keep from turning the seat plug as the nut is removed though. the last valve I had that was super easy to turn had been wel and truely overlubed inside.

FT

 

[divad]

You should carry any tank with the orifice AWAY from your palm!


So that gravity will fix your valve.

 

[mrducks]

wierd...sounds like non standard parts may of been installed in valve somewhere along the line.
disassemble valve and check all parts against thermo specs.....if all checks out try the extra o-ring on valve stem if you are saavy in valve re-buliding and willing to experiment.

 

[Boogie711]

Which is why I'm not carrying the Faber in my right hand. That's the problem with the handle being on the right hand side - to carry it comfortably in your right hand (usually your dominant one) you carry it with your fingers curled under the knob. Unfortunately, that means that your palm is next to the orifice - and I agree - that's NEVER a good thing.

I was slugging my PST E7-100 around today, and trying to come up with some form of habit-forming way of slugging it around as I fill it, load it in my truck, etc. It's not so much a concern, just because you can give it a half turn before air starts to trickle out, but I still want to develop "good slinging habits."

Basically, it's either turn it around so two fingers are under the handle, and your ring finger/pinky are under the plug, or go with the whole "over the shoulder" thing. The shoulder thing works pretty good most of the time, but it's awkward and gets trickier when you're trying to move multiple bottles.

Maybe I should just get a left-handed valve and tell people I'm working on putting together a doubles set.

 

[divad]

What's wrong with turning it around?

 

[Boogie711]

What's wrong with turning it around?

Nothing. It's just not as comfortable, and as a result, you see a lot of people who don't do it. And admittedly, sometimes myself. Like I said - I'm working on developing good 'tank slinging' habits.