Cornelius 130R build. Questions and design ideas.

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Ghost95

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Evening all. This thread is an offshoot from my "not another doublehose" post.

I realized that the previous title might not have drawn the attention it needed for me to be able to ask the right questions to the right people. Also, I have attached a pic of the compressor that I received. I haven't personally seen it yet but I will when I get home from work. It has been delivered and is in the house as we speak. I'm sure the wife loves tripping over it every day.

Anyway, I'm going to make multiple posts to this thread asking for info about different aspects of this setup and I'd love to hear thoughts, ideas, and suggestions about the project. The individual posts will allow me to keep up with the answers a little better and anyone who is following along might be able to keep up as well. Maybe someone else is contemplating a build like this and we can help them too. As I complete each step I'll try and document my progress and hope for the best.

Looking forward to getting to play with this. Here's the compressor.
 

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First question.

Cornelius 130 R compressor:

The label on mine says that it is a 2 CFM at 5000 rpm. but I have read that the 1500, 2400, 3000, and 3500 psi compressors are all the same 130R head. What’s the difference?

A higher or lower RPM seems like it would have an effect on the output volume but not the pressure.

Do these compressors have to run at 5000 or can it be run slower or faster?
 
Second Question.
Electric motor:

I’m looking to use 110v house power for an electric motor. I see motors from ½ hp to 3 hp. 1 hp to 1-1/2 hp seem to give me the most purchase options. Is bigger really better with this setup? Will I gain much using a 1-1/2 hp vs a 1hp? Do I need a 3hp? I have a 20 amp breaker to an outside outlet that I will be using for power.
 
Third Question.

RPM:

Seeing as these compressors are rated to run at 5000 RPM, should I go with a 3450 RPM motor and pulleys at aprox 3” on the motor and 2” on the compressor? Or…would a motor running 1725 RPM with pulleys at aprox 5-3/4” on the motor and 2” on the compressor be a better option?

Is there a difference in torque between the two motors that should be considered when dealing with a tiny compressor like this?
 
Quick Google this is what I found


TECHNICAL MANUAL: CORNELIUS SCUBA COMPRESSOR 130-R-1500

image unavailable
PRICING & HISTORY
DESCRIPTION: This is a CD-ROM containing a copy of the TECHNICAL MANUAL for a genuine Cornelius portable SCUBA compressor (circa 1955). The 34-page documentation is for model 130-R-1500 powered by a 14.5 amp single-phase 110 volt AC motor that turned the compressor at 3450 rpm. This compressor was designed specifically for filling SCUBA tanks and was rated at 3,000 PSI and 1.75 cubic feet of free air per minute. It had an oil-water separator-filter. The compressor assembly consisted of a radial, three-stage piston air compressor, driven directly by the integral AC motor. This unique compressor had no piston rings and used poppet-type pistons that eliminate the need for intake valve mechanisms. The 1st and 2nd stages incorporated relief valves to prevent excessive interstage pressures. It was constructed with ball and needle bearings throughout. The photo shows the compressor that the Technical Manual applies to.The 34-page TECHNICAL MANUAL for AIR COMPRESSOR ASSEMBLY, MODEL 130R1500 is on a CD-ROM disk and includes these sections:I - Detailed DescriptionII - Installation InstructionsIII - Adjustments and TestsIV - Operating InstructionsV - MaintenanceI - Illustrated Parts ListIncludes 7-pages of original Cornelius compressor color advertising and several photos of the compressor and some of its components.RETURNS: This item is sold READ MORE
 
Fourth Question.

Water separation and filtering:

My idea for water separation and filtering is something like this.

3rd stage output to a check valve. From Check Valve to a Kiddie surplus 5000 psi 9.5 cubic inch water separator. From the separator to a Coltri MCH6 filter housing with triplex filter. From the filter to either a priority valve then the whip or to the whip with the priority valve at the fill connection.

Does this sound like a good plan? Any suggestions? Extra Check Valves somewhere?

I’ve read, somewhere, that the Kiddie separators were pretty efficient and those are the only ones that I can find for a reasonable price. Any experience with them or suggestions?

Also, I know the Coltri MCH6 is small but I work a weird schedule and once I open the filter I’ve heard there is only a few months of life in them. I would eventually like a repackable stack but to start, easily available cartridges might just be easier. The compressor will fill a few tanks for a month and then be idle for a month. It will fill a few tanks for a month then be idle for another month again. I was hoping that filter life would be ok seeing as the fill rate is so slow. What do you think 10-15 tanks and some pony bottles thrown in?

Also, why can I buy a HP scuba tank for $400 but filter housings and water separators are like $700? Is there some place to find these components that won’t break the bank on a small project like this?

Attached pic is the Kidde separator I'm considering using.
 

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That's all the questions for the time being. Thanks for your input. I'll keep you updated.

Safe Diving.
 
My utilus has a check valve after the colelesing water separator, that way I can drain it for easy start up,
 
Quick Google this is what I found

TECHNICAL MANUAL: CORNELIUS SCUBA COMPRESSOR 130-R-1500

image unavailable
PRICING & HISTORY

DESCRIPTION: This is a CD-ROM containing a copy of the TECHNICAL MANUAL for a genuine Cornelius portable SCUBA compressor (circa 1955). The 34-page documentation is for model 130-R-1500 powered by a 14.5 amp single-phase 110 volt AC motor that turned the compressor at 3450 rpm. This compressor was designed specifically for filling SCUBA tanks and was rated at 3,000 PSI and 1.75 cubic feet of free air per minute. It had an oil-water separator-filter. The compressor assembly consisted of a radial, three-stage piston air compressor, driven directly by the integral AC motor. This unique compressor had no piston rings and used poppet-type pistons that eliminate the need for intake valve mechanisms. The 1st and 2nd stages incorporated relief valves to prevent excessive interstage pressures. It was constructed with ball and needle bearings throughout. The photo shows the compressor that the Technical Manual applies to.The 34-page TECHNICAL MANUAL for AIR COMPRESSOR ASSEMBLY, MODEL 130R1500 is on a CD-ROM disk and includes these sections:I - Detailed DescriptionII - Installation InstructionsIII - Adjustments and TestsIV - Operating InstructionsV - MaintenanceI - Illustrated Parts ListIncludes 7-pages of original Cornelius compressor color advertising and several photos of the compressor and some of its components.RETURNS: This item is sold READ MORE
Hi, there is a tag on the fan. I am assuming it's correct but I don't know for sure. Maybe 5000 RPM is Intermittent Duty and 3450 is Constant Duty?
 

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https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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