Cool older instrument

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neil

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I don't think this is particularly vintage, but it's odd and I'd thought I'd share. My wife found this yesterday in a thrift store. It's in perfect conditon and still has a label on the side identifying it as model SK-80. A compass/capillary gauge combo.

SK80.jpg
 
rakkis:
pimp. does the gauge work?

It's burdon tube depth gauge which have no moving parts and are almost inpossible to break short of running over them with an 18 wheeler. Their main problem is that they get harder to read accurately the deeper the depth because the the graduations get closer together the deeper you go. That is the main reason you don't see them made today.
 
'Course, the boudon tube automatically compensates for altitude, so it's got that going for it. I mean, besides the 'cool' factor.

I saw one of those on eBay a while back, but wasn't in nearly as nice shape, and was a very uncool shade of black :wink:
 
I had one, kinda' like that in 1971. It was my primary depth gage (actually, it was the only one we had between my buddy Scott and I).

Ah, the good old days... :D

Nice find.
 
captain:
Their main problem is that they get harder to read accurately the deeper the depth because the the graduations get closer together the deeper you go.

Not to mention difficult to see in low light, which would be, umm....U/W?

You can still get them:
http://shop.divebooty.com/321.html
 
The flip side is that they are extremely accurate and easy to read in shallow water. We always thought they make great back up depth gauge and the best depth gauge to hold the shallow water decompression stops. I don’t think there is a more precise depth gauge down to 30ft (at least not an analog depth gauge).

I see that the price is still under $20 (that is close to what they cost in the 70’s)
 
captain:
It's burdon tube depth gauge which have no moving parts and are almost inpossible to break short of running over them with an 18 wheeler. Their main problem is that they get harder to read accurately the deeper the depth because the the graduations get closer together the deeper you go. That is the main reason you don't see them made today.

No, it's not a Bourdon tube. It's a capillary tube. Bourdon tube gauges are nearly linear.

Submersible pressure gauges contain a Bourdon tube, a flattened tube bent into a curve. As the pressure inside the Bourdon tube increases, the curve tends to straigten and that motion is converted into the rotation of a indicator (hand) on the face of the gauge.
 
donacheson:
No, it's not a Bourdon tube. It's a capillary tube. Bourdon tube gauges are nearly linear.

Submersible pressure gauges contain a Bourdon tube, a flattened tube bent into a curve. As the pressure inside the Bourdon tube increases, the curve tends to straigten and that motion is converted into the rotation of a indicator (hand) on the face of the gauge.

My bad, it was early in the morning.
 
I have one of those in black. Also several other capillary tube gauges. They are fairly accurate IF a) The gauge is marked correctly (I found one of mine which was graduated improperly), b) The tube is positioned in the correct position in relation to the depth indicators (some have an index notch like yours, many do not), and c) If you are on your first dive.
The gauge can be inaccurate on subsequent dives due to a small amount of water remaining in the tube from the first dive. When you resubmerge, there is a small "bubble" of water, per se, in the air column, or the water column will be too long, giving a deeper reading than actual (most of the inaccuracy in these gauges errs on the side of safety- i.e. reading deeper than actual).
Theoretically, all of the air in the tube SHOULD return to it's original volume at the surface, thereby forcing ALL of the water out, but temperature also comes into play. Assuming the usual scenario of diving water which is colder than the surface air, the air column in the tube will cool and form a small vacuum while submerged, drawing more water into the tube than what would have been pushed into it due to the water pressure at depth. (Yes, this will also affect the accuracy while you are diving. The larger the temperature differential, the greater the error- again, usually on the safe side.) The remedy for subsequent dives is to simply hold the gauge in your hands or in the sun until the warmed air in the tube pushes the remaining water out.
But then, if sand gets in the tube (as it somehow always does).........................................................
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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