Condensation trap on intake?

[InWay2Deep]

I have a knockoff MCH6/MaxAIR clone running in my garage, I have to dump the condensate quite often and for a while to get it to blow dry, due the high humidity this time of year (I think), is there anything you can plumb into the intake to trap some of that before it makes it into the compressor, and are there any alternatives to the 1,000 auto purge kits? That seems very pricey for a simple timer and electric switch.

 

[Snusmumrik]

Me not being an Coltri owner, but think all HP air compressors operate on same basis.

You can't plumb something into the intake to trap some of humidity except large
silicagel-filled pre-filter, and post-filter to catch silicagel dust, but it's a bit complex
job to manage such setup - silicagel cannot be left on open air and often needs
replace or regeneraion.

Me bought cheap chinese HP solenoid valve and DIN rail-mounted timer.
Valve plumbed into filter tower purge outlet. Timer wired to fire valve each 10 minutes.
Cost me less than $20 overall. Works fine.

 

[happy-diver]

Is your paper intake filter wet, compressors despite humidity produce heaps of water through pressurisation

 

[rob.mwpropane]

I have a knockoff MCH6/MaxAIR clone running in my garage, I have to dump the condensate quite often and for a while to get it to blow dry, due the high humidity this time of year (I think), is there anything you can plumb into the intake to trap some of that before it makes it into the compressor, and are there any alternatives to the 1,000 auto purge kits? That seems very pricey for a simple timer and electric switch.

You could plumb an intake from a conditioned place (like an air conditioned room). You'll have to be more careful about CO2 build up from a confined place.

The ambient temperature, or more importantly what temperature reaches the compressor / filter stacks will define how much moisture you get. It will always be 100%, but the cooler the air the less moisture it can hold. I personally try to pump below 60°-70°(F).

This is where having a few bank tanks to fill on cooler days really helps.

 

[Gone for diving]

For draining the first stage automatically, (is only 150psi ish. ) There are all kinds of auto drains for shop air on amazon, etc.

After that you need HP valves

 

[InWay2Deep]

You could plumb an intake from a conditioned place (like an air conditioned room). You'll have to be more careful about CO2 build up from a confined place.

The ambient temperature, or more importantly what temperature reaches the compressor / filter stacks will define how much moisture you get. It will always be 100%, but the cooler the air the less moisture it can hold. I personally try to pump below 60°-70°(F).

This is where having a few bank tanks to fill on cooler days really helps.

yes, I am on the lookout for some cascade bottles

For draining the first stage automatically, (is only 150psi ish. ) There are all kinds of auto drains for shop air on amazon, etc.

After that you need HP valves

I assume the water trap is the 1st stage? That's the only one producing any liquid of any sort.

 

[Gone for diving]

Don't know yours in general... but usually there are 3 drains...

Yes the first one removes the bulk of the water....
just like a shop air compressor.

But the others do need to get drained..

 

[InWay2Deep]

Don't know yours in general... but usually there are 3 drains...

Yes the first one removes the bulk of the water....
just like a shop air compressor.

But the others do need to get drained..

I have 2 drains, and yes I drain them both every 5-10 minutes.

 

[rob.mwpropane]

I have 2 drains, and yes I drain them both every 5-10 minutes.

I have 2 drains on the compressor and 1 on the filter housing. I will drain every 10 min in the summer and every 15 in the winter. Just enough to bleed off the moisture. The filter will take care of the rest.

My coalescers (moisture sperators) are on the 2nd and 3rd stages. The 1st stage does not have a one. I know it was posted on here somewhere that having one on the 1st stage would do nothing (on a Rix). If I remember correctly, it was because the air hadn't been "squeezed " enough yet.