Cold water setup for beginners

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Not all algorithms are the same. Mares and Suunto follow RGBM (or their versions of it) which is considered inferior to Buhlmann and GFs.
I tend to disagree with statement above. Buy cheap-ish computer that you can later use as a backup if you decide to go deeper/longer aka tech diving.
I use Mares Matrix that works great as a backup to my Perdix
Not exactly. I had a Cressi Leonardo that was my backup to an Aeris A300 CS. Got locked out one day while on a trip. Just left it in my room the rest of the trip and then sold it upon my return.

Having a (ridiculously) more conservative computer for a backup is a bad idea if you can get locked out.
 
Not exactly. I had a Cressi Leonardo that was my backup to an Aeris A300 CS. Got locked out one day while on a trip. Just left it in my room the rest of the trip and then sold it upon my return.

Having a (ridiculously) more conservative computer for a backup is a bad idea if you can get locked out.
I never use it as DC, only as depth gauge/timer
 
I chose the DGX bpw.

Sealed diapram Hog D1 yoke reg. Dive Rite xt's on my doubles rig (din).

Shearwater Terric or Perdix. Skip the Ai sensor to save money.
 
For cold water diving a steel plate makes the most sense. It reduces the issue of finding spots to put all your lead and helps out your trim.

For vacation you just need an extra half rig, the plate, webbing, D-rings and buckle etc. Reuse the wing.t
 
I have a friend who has the 2 crotch strap and it doesn't add anything. Also when you clip a negative reel/spool back there when its on the centre line it sits between your legs barely in the way. On the double straps it sits more annoyingly on your leg.

My preference for steel vs ali is always ali. If you know you will forever be on a signle cylinder maybe steel makes sense. But otherwise ali gives you more options to were to put the weight making it easier to trim. Furthermore if I had a steel backplate I would be overweight without any extra weight in my summer layers. In my colder layers I add V or tail weights or a small weight belt - all that subtly change the trim.

Will the Vyper and transmitter save you much money over the perdix? If you don't want to change the battery yourself it will also cost you £50 for each battery change (mine lasts roughly 100 dives, I do change mine but it is stressful as two of my competent friends had their flood after and I sheared one of the screws once which cost me £90 to fix). The vyper can take you a long way though, I do a zoop novo and vyper novo and thats for diving to 70m and being a mixed gas instructor. MY primary plan is on a slate using the zoop in gauge, with back up on the vyper (it doesn't know about my helium but to OC depths and times it makes less than 3 minutes difference and the slate's run time is normally longer than this). It is an extra faff but I've been spending my money on camera parts!

Just in terms of the build quality and ease of service I would still go DST and xtx 50 if the DST was more expensive: https://4thelement-diving.co.uk/ here can be a really cheap place to buy new apeks DSTs
 

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