DIR- Generic Cold water dive gear recommendation

[ahereng]

Don't get me wrong, a lot of people use 40lbs wings for D12's. If you find that it doesn't keep your rig floating, it's quite easy to put a few kg's on a weightbelt.

The Gue-people I know in Trondheim are nice people, likely no problem joining them for dives.

 

[Storker]

Calling @Storker .

SIR, present, SIR!

Dear fellow "kool-aid drinkers" ,

I am still fairly new to scuba and DIR (GUE-F Rec with doubles/ less than 70 dives) with experience mostly diving in waters where 3mm wetsuit are more than enough, or worst case few dives with 7mm in lakes during winter. I have no experience with drysuit, or other type of gear that are needed in truly cold waters.

This March I will be leaving the South-East (US) for Trondheim in Norway, where I expect to stay for at least 2 years. I know that they have a very vivid GUE community to join and help me on everything, but I would like to get some idea beforehand. For the duration of my stay there, I expect to dive a a lot, all year around, both recreationally and for my work as a researcher, so I expect to start building my own double setup that can withstand the expected low temperatures and conditions.

I would like to ask any of you diving in Norway (or familiar with such conditions) for the gear you are using and for recomendations regarding:

1. Tanks (aluminium vs steel)
2. Wings
3. Regulators
4. Drysuits (including gloves and undergarments)
5. Other purchases that warm divers such as myself might not be familiar with.

I would like to keep the discussion as general as possible, so potentially other divers might find it useful, but I would appreciate if you could also help me by answering the following questions:
a) I am currently running a mk25-EVO with g260 and r195. According to scubapro it is classified as cold resistant. Could I just get a second mk25-EVO or should I invest in two new other set of regs? Do the secondary regs work?
b) I plan to purchase a Halcyon donut wing directly from High Springs. What should be the size recommended given a drysuit and the type of tanks used in Norway.
c) Do you have any personal preference between SANTI and DUI drysuits? Any hidden specs I should know before I place an order?
d) Is a 7mm enough for diving during summer? I naturally have a well above average endurance and love for low temperatures.


Thank you for your time and help. I wish you have a happy new year.

Welcome to the outskirts of civilization. The weather here sucks donkey's cojones, but the nature is wonderful. College or work? If college, I can introduce you to the local student diving club. If work, there are two "adult" clubs to choose between. I know people in both of them.
I would seriously consider joining a club. There's one LDS here offering outings, but a lot of the local diving activity is in clubs. A rather different culture compared to the commercial system found west of the pond.

1. The only dudes using Al tanks here are tech divers. For stage tanks and such. Backgas is always in steels. Typically twin 12Lx232bar if you're a tech dude, single 12x232 if you're rec. Some of us rec dudes also use single 300bar tanks (typically 10L or 12L). I'd look at buying tanks over here due to different regulations between US and Europe. There are used tanks on the market, you can save some money there. Either Facebook or finn.no (our version of Craigslist)
2. Wings? Use whatever you want. I've dived with folks using single tank wing, twinset wing, single tank jacket or twin jacket. Just make sure to prime your buddy during the pre-dive chat. Same with conventional octo setup vs LH/BO
3. Regs? The most common reg brands over here are Apeks and Scubapro. I'm pretty sure there are other good regs, though. Just make sure it's cold water certified. Me, I'm partial to diaphragm regs.
4. Drysuit is compulsory. You can do fairly well below in a 7 mil WS, but the SI is going to suck donkey's cojones. If you want to be comfortable after the dive, go dry. We normally have topside temps from some 15C down to below freezing. Not considering wind chill. Good luck getting warm again if you're wet. Neo or shell, that's a matter of personal preference.
5. 1 A new, thick, snug hood. Preferably some ten-ish mil if you're planning to dive between Oct and Apr, at least seven. 2. Drygloves. And drygloves. And drygloves. If you can afford them. Otherwise you should go for 6-7 mil 3-fingers. They make a ton of a difference. With wool liners. If you PM me I can tell you what kind of gloves and liners I use and where I get them. A lot cheaper than the stuff they sell at the LDS and just as good. You'll never regret those investments, and diving without a hood is... something I'd never, ever do over here. Not safe. A serious knife (type BFK) is compulsory, we have no limitations on that. Perhaps a catch bag. Comes in great if you want to stab a wolffish. They make a great supper.

 

[Storker]

Is a heated vest necessary or simply adds some comfort?

Depends.

If you dive no-stop, a good undergarment should be enough. If you plan on hanging some time for deco, a heated vest may be a good investment. It helps, though, if you carry enough weight to not having to run your DS really tight. Weight = air = insulation.

I like to add a kg or two to my belt during winter (3-5 degrees C water)

 

[Storker]

I hope they won't mind my English.

The current young whippersnappers are taught English from 1st grade, and most Norwegians are fairly competent in English. To the extent that foreigners in Norway don't learn the language since we more or less automatically switch to English if the other person isn't proficient in the local language.

IOW: Don't worry.

 

[Storker]

I found this on halcyon website, seems to be their official Norway dealer.

View attachment 697869

Fue is a great store. Really competent and with a wonderful offering. And they've drunk the GUE kool-aid. Located in Oslo, though, so perhaps a bit complicated for the OP. There are two LDSs in the town OP is going to. Both have their strengths and limitations.

 

[Storker]

Pee valves are really helpful on a drysuit in very cold or very warm weather, regardless of dive length.

Well. I've been diving dry for some 10+ years, and I can comfortably count on one hand the times I've missed a pee valve.

Just prepare properly, and you may do quite well without glueing a condom to your junk if you dive no-stop.

 

[Storker]

Wouldn't lower salinity in the water indicating need for a higher volume wing?

I believe you're overthinking stuff. Unless you're really, really minimizing your weighting, the density difference between brackish (Baltic sea) water, fjord water or Atlantic water isn't very significant.

 

[Storker]

It's in Oslo, 6 hours away by car from the town I will be living.

If you're driving at summer, occasionally above the speed limit.

If you keep close to the speed limit, account for some 7-7.5 hours driving Trondheim-Oslo, plus breaks.

 

[mariosx]

The Gue-people I know in Trondheim are nice people, likely no problem joining them for dives.

I am confident they are. Hopefully I ll get used to the drysuit quickly.

 

[Subcooled]

Without reading the whole thread, I will say that...

This March I will be leaving the South-East (US) for Trondheim in Norway, where I expect to stay for at least 2 years.

Very cold water.
Very cold fingers and toes.

I expect to dive a a lot, all year around

Cold air on the surface. Do let your regs to warm up in the above freezing water.

I would like to ask any of you diving in Norway (or familiar with such conditions) for the gear you are using and for recomendations regarding:

1. Tanks (aluminium vs steel)

Finland.
Steel.
Single 300 bar 10L or double 232 bar 12L.
Ask your future team!

1. Regulators

Apeks DS4/DST/TEK first stages at 9bar IP and ATX/XTX second stages screwed tight are probably good. That's what I'm using in +2C...+4C. Modern Poseidon is an option too, if service is available.
Check with your team.

1. Drysuits (including gloves and undergarments)

It is a piece of clothing. You do need to try it on - with undergarments.
Undergarments are cheaper to improve - e.g. with merino wool.
Gloves - the final frontier - no matter which ones you choose, there will a situation where you'll want something else but drygloves for sure!

1. buOther purchases that warm divers such as myself might not be familiar with.

Warm socks.
Heavier rubber fins.

classified as cold resistant

Certified or resistant?