Cleaning corrosion 1st stage

[slackercruster]

What is a good lube to use on the threads of the 1st stage connection screw? The threads show some corrosion.

And what wrench do I use to take the nut off the threads where the air inlet is on the 1st stage. They also show some corrosion there and would like to clean the threads up.

 

[Rick Murchison]

Uh, what kind of first stage?
Brand? Model? Yoke? DIN?
Rick

 

[halocline]

Can you be more specific? Are you talking about the big nut that holds the yoke in place? And what do you mean by the "connection screw"? Do you mean the big screw that goes through the yoke? If that screw has some green corrosion on the threads, you can remove it with a little vinegar and an old toothbrush, then coat the threads with either silicone grease or Christolube. The yoke nut is usually removed with either a big open end wrench or a special socket that has narrow enough walls or some cut-outs to fit around the yoke. If you use the open end wrench method you're left with the dilemma of how to tighten it to the correct torque, unless you're replacing it with a DIN connector.

Was that your question, or have I misunderstood something?

 

[redacted]

Cleaning of metal parts of a 1st stage can be done with a light acidic solution. A 50/50 mix of vinegar and water works well. A 3 to 5 minute bath will usuallydo the trick. But only metal parts should be exposed to the solution as it may harm rubber and other soft parts.

I would not lube the yoke screw threads as it may also serve to attract sand and dirt which can be a problem. Usually, a simple FW soak will keep that connection clean enough to prevent any binding.

Yoke nuts are best removed and installed with a special socket designed to fit inside the A-clamp. Size may vary with brand but most are 1 inch. It is one of the connections that can be quite sensitive to torque so follow manufacturer recommended torque specification. Those threads are often not protected by an o-ring so a light coat of lube is desirable.

 

[slackercruster]

Are you talking about the big nut that holds the yoke in place? And what do you mean by the "connection screw"? Do you mean the big screw that goes through the yoke?

Yes, that is it.

Sherwood Brut and Magnum, yoke.

Where do I buy the socket / tools at?

And thanks for the help!

 

[LeadTurn_SD]

Scuba Tools is a great source for standard and specialized tools for regulators:

Scuba Tools

Best wishes.

 

[SDAnderson]

1. Do not lube the handwheel threads, the crap it will collect offsets the rust it will prevent. A light film of Christo-Lube goes on the yoke nut.
   
2. Sherwood suggests a 15" adjustable wrench (Menards) and a support bar (Scuba Tools or any 3/8"-24UNF male thread) to loosen the yoke nut. Torque specs are a mystery for Sherwoods.
   
3. Be sure to rinse the inlet filter in yak urine before you reassemble everything - that will offset the odor of the mung that collects on the piston seat between servicings.

Hey, it's the internet. Usually the advice you get is wrong 2 out of 3 times...

 

[LeadTurn_SD]

1. Be sure to rinse the inlet filter in yak urine before you reassemble everything - that will offset the odor of the mung that collects on the piston seat between servicings.

Hey, it's the internet. Usually the advice you get is wrong 2 out of 3 times...

Do you use filtered or unfiltered yak urine? I can only find the filtered stuff locally....

Best wishes.

 

[redacted]

Do you use filtered or unfiltered yak urine? I can only find the filtered stuff locally....

Best wishes.

That would probably depend on how friendly you are with the Yak.

 

[LeadTurn_SD]

That would probably depend on how friendly you are with the Yak.

If I laugh any harder, I wont need to bother with a yak to get some urine!

Hmmm.... all joking aside (well, most of the joking), urine does contain uric acid I think... shucks, who needs to run out to the store to get vinegar! Next time I see some nasty green buildup on a reg, I know what I'm gonna try.... or maybe not....

Best wishes.