cheap chinese video light review

[Scuba-Lad]

I tried this as well based on the piezo switch you had recommended, however with a different Chinese made canister light using the same cheap LED switches, and had a similar experience. The latching on the piezo was not enough to turn the light on or off but would, with long enough and hard enough pressing, cause it to cycle through the different intensities. Possibly a different piezo switch would do better but it also might be a dead end depending on the latching circuit requirements.

I'm not particularly an expert with electronics but it crossed my mind about using a small relay with delay effect. So rather than using the Piezo to directly close the switch circuit, the piezo would be used to activate the relay, which in turn could be set to say 300-500ms to hold closed before returning to normally open. The relay would probably draw some power when not in use, but I'm presuming with such a tiny device that power draw would be negligible in comparison to the LEDs.

 

[MATTKINZ]

you people know a lot more about electronics than I do. I am unable to remove anything from light. it seems they epoxied everything in place.

If i can get it out. I hoped to make light always on and then screw the battery section in or out to turn on like some of the old dive lights. Thus bypassing the switches. I have tried to use a wire to connect across the contacts for the switches in the depth of the switch holes, but no power to bulbs. It seems under the leaky switches, there are small circuit boards and a small push button switch. If anyone can direct me how to bypass switches, that'd be great.

To those who have bought the lights with crappy switches. I recommend not pressing buttons while underwater. Turn on light just before entering and turn off if still on when out of water and rinsed with fresh water. I think the stem of the switch does not have a good o-ring seal and may work if not wiggled underwater. wiggling it while underwater is likely to allow seawater to squeeze by. Mine crapped out in middle of dive after turning on and off a number of times to take pictures/videos.

 

[MATTKINZ]

one more idea, since it leaks at the switch. there is a little space under where you presss the switch. If you have a syringe that can develop enough pressure, you may be able to inject silicone to fill the area under the plastic switch top. There is a special silicone grease for Environmental cap. I cannot remember the name or designation., however any silicone if fillingthe compartment under the button may prevent seawater excursion past the o-ring.

good luck divers. mk

 

[MATTKINZ]

Dow Corning 111 O-Ring Valve Silicone Lubricant & Sealant Scuba 2oz 57g is the type used for silicone protected environmental cap for scubapro piston regulators.

 

[Addison Snyder]

it seems they epoxied everything in place.

Pics? I have some lights where they took the big circular chip and simply superglued it so that it wouldn't rotate with the batteries and twist the wires on the inside. To break the bond I used a hooked pick (normally for getting O-rings out of regs). There were some notches that allowed me to get some leverage. It wasn't easy and took a little brute force. If your light chip doesn't have anything to get a hold of, you might (YMMV, potentially risky) try to drill a small hole through the PCB where there aren't any connections or components.

 

[MATTKINZ]

thanks , will try. there are 2 notches in the battery plate.

 

[Addison Snyder]

Example of one of mine. Note the scarring where I had to use a little bit of force. Not pretty but you can crack it open with a decent pick. On a side note, I hope chinese manufacturers could respond with a better cheap product. Frustrating to see them make 80% of a good light at like 10% of the cost. Making 95% of a good light with like 15-20% of the cost should be possible.

 

[Addison Snyder]

Considering buying one of these for 20 bucks, from the photo the switch actually looks on-par with what you might get in a Tovatec or branded light, and it also takes 26650s 21700s. Seems they are slowly but surely reacting to common issues in chinese lights. Seeing more lights with higher quality looking push button switches, magnetic switches (even ones with springs and different modes like in branded lights). Seeing thinner lights (aka no "thick" front reflector), or alternatively, just thicker bodies that match the front while providing space for bigger batteries. Lol maybe a few years from now they'll be moving to piezo-electric switches.

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[Gone for diving]

Considering buying one of these for 20 bucks, from the photo the switch actually looks on-par with what you might get in a Tovatec or branded light, and it also takes 26650s 21700s. Seems they are slowly but surely reacting to common issues in chinese lights. Seeing more lights with higher quality looking push button switches, magnetic switches (even ones with springs and different modes like in branded lights). Seeing thinner lights (aka no "thick" front reflector), or alternatively, just thicker bodies that match the front while providing space for bigger batteries. Lol maybe a few years from now they'll be moving to piezo-electric switches.

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Have you actually used this light? How good is it?

 

[MATTKINZ]

That is te exact type of leaky switch on my lights. the plastic ring around is made of clear plastic and they have tiny LED's under it to light up when you switch it on.

Not a better switch. Beware.