cheap chinese video light review
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Just a guess, don’t know what emitter it uses but it looks like a copy of the XM-L2 which is 116-175 lumens per watt, the brighter it runs the less efficient it is. So that’s somewhat between 3800-5800 lumens.
I think the 6 LED version might use a lot more power. Didn’t you say your light runs for about an hour? That’s at least twice the power mine uses.
Also keep in mind 4000 lumens is still a lot. A while back I was doing some glow in the dark testing with the owner of my LDS with my DGX800. To keep it dark he held my light against his shirt. Within about 30 seconds his shirt was smoking and that’s only 800 lumens. Oops!
I just checked my dive log and it was 1hr 16 mins, of which I had the torch on for the majority of the time but on the lowest power setting. The switch was still lighting blue but I noticed towards the end of the dive if I switched the torch off and back on but leaving it on the highest power setting, after about a minute the switch would turn red, indicating low battery voltage. Switching off and then back on but cycling to the mid or lowest power setting meant the switch stayed blue. I use 18650B (button top) 3500mah batteries.Just a guess, don’t know what emitter it uses but it looks like a copy of the XM-L2 which is 116-175 lumens per watt, the brighter it runs the less efficient it is. So that’s somewhat between 3800-5800 lumens.
I think the 6 LED version might use a lot more power. Didn’t you say your light runs for about an hour? That’s at least twice the power mine uses.
Also keep in mind 4000 lumens is still a lot. A while back I was doing some glow in the dark testing with the owner of my LDS with my DGX800. To keep it dark he held my light against his shirt. Within about 30 seconds his shirt was smoking and that’s only 800 lumens. Oops!
I was looking into how to test the lumens output and it doesn't seem too straight forward. Perhaps a better approach might be for me to ask around and see if any friends have a trusted output video light I can borrow to compare. My replacement hasn't arrived yet so I can't check. 4000 lumens would be about half of what I was hoping for, though I was never expecting the sellers claimed 20000 lol!
I have an Orcatorch DL570-GL which runs on a single 18650b that kicks out 1000 lumens for about 70 minutes, but it's not a video light so comparing apples to oranges.
I just looked up the DL570 and it has laser pointer!?! Never seen that in a dive light before, thats awesome lol.
Would love to see a side by side comparison if you can borrow a light in the future. I was looking at the Orca 910V. 5000 lumens, battery is 3-18650 (38 watt-hours), run time on high is 50 minutes so thats 45 watts. I calculated my light is about 33 watts. Seems consistent, little less power and little less light then the 910V.. Still a ton of variables, a side by side comparison would be simpler and probably more accurate.
Now that I have a working BB14-7s again I thought I would share my very non-scientific lumens test. I compared to a SUPE (scubalamp) V6K, assume to be version two. The spec sheet says that the V6k is 12,000 lumens on max power and 6,000 lumens on medium. It only has the two settings for the purpose of this test. In my opinion the 12,000 lumens setting on the V6k is brighter than the BB14-14s, however dropping down to 6,000 lumens, the BB14-7s is certainly as bright, if not potentially slightly brighter than the V6k.
For the test, the BB14-7S as at the top, the V6k is at the bottom. The BB14-7S was on full power for both photos.
I'd say the estimates of around 7,000 lumens seem reasonable based on what I can see, and assuming the claims from the V6k are accurate. Note that the colour temps are different which may skew perception.
Photos:
V6k 12,000 lumens:
V6K 6,000 lumens:
FYI the V6K retails here for about 15x the price of the BB14-7S.
For the test, the BB14-7S as at the top, the V6k is at the bottom. The BB14-7S was on full power for both photos.
I'd say the estimates of around 7,000 lumens seem reasonable based on what I can see, and assuming the claims from the V6k are accurate. Note that the colour temps are different which may skew perception.
Photos:
V6k 12,000 lumens:
V6K 6,000 lumens:
FYI the V6K retails here for about 15x the price of the BB14-7S.
Anyone can suggest a store in Europe with reliable batteries?They arent as bright as they claim, but still very bright.
If you're in the US heres a couple of batteries I would recommend. Keep in mind theres a global battery shortage, prices are high at the moment.
Very good high discharge battery and the highest capacity money can buy. Made in South Korea. Use code BLFuser for 5% off. Illumn also offers free shipping to lower 48.
18650 LG MJ1 INR18650-MJ1 3500mAh High Discharge Protected Button Top
18650 LG MJ1 INR18650-MJ1 3500mAh High Discharge Protected Button Topwww.illumn.com
A cheaper option: BAK 18650 3050mAh 6.1A - Protected Button Top Battery
Made in China, little less capacity, little less discharge amps. Never used these batteries but I've heard good things.
thx
West Indiaman
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If you buy bulk you cant beat Fogstar's price. The minimum order is £75 (~€89). Every week they offer 15% codes posted on Facebook. Which comes out to €2 ($2.11) per 3000mAh battery. They also sell lots of different chargers at good prices.
BAK N18650CK [Button-Top/Protected] | Fogstar Wholesale
BAK N18650CK [Button-Top/Protected] from Fogstar Wholesale | The number one source for wholesale lithium ion batteries and accessories in the UK
www.fogstar-wholesale.co.uk
Xtar 2200mAh (€3.68)
Xtar 2200mAh 3.7V 18650 PCB PROTECTED Batterie für Size 18650
Der wiederaufladbare Lithium-Ionen-Akku Xtar 18650 hat eine Kapazität von 2200mAh und basiert auf dem originalen Panasonic-Sanyo 18650-Akku. Geschützt gegen ...
etronixcenter.com
Xtar 2600mAh (€5.58)
Xtar 2600mAh 3.7V 18650 PCB PROTECTED Batterie für Size 18650
Der wiederaufladbare Lithium-Ionen-Akku Xtar 18650 hat eine Kapazität von 2600mAhmAh und basiert auf dem originalen Panasonic-Sanyo 18650-Akku. Geschützt geg...
etronixcenter.com
Xtar 3300mAh (€7.95)
Xtar 3500mAh (€9.91, NCR18650GA great battery, probably overkill).
Xtar 3500mAh 3,7V 18650 PCB GESCHÜTZTE Batterie für Size 18650
Der wiederaufladbare Lithium-Ionen-Akku Xtar 18650 hat eine Kapazität von 3500 mAh und basiert auf dem Original-Akku 18650 von Panasonic-Sanyo. Geschützt geg...
etronixcenter.com
The Keep Power 2600mAh West Indiaman posted is a little cheaper €4.75 on Etronix. Not sure about shipping costs.
KeepPower 18650 2600mAh wiederaufladbare batterie für Size 18650
Beschreibung: KeepPower 18650 2600mAh wiederaufladbare (protected) batterie P1826J Einzelheiten: Geschützter (protected) Lithium-Ionen-Akku 18650 P1826J Min ...
etronixcenter.com
I have what appears to be like the SUPE V6K as seen on pst by Scuba-lad above. It is the Chinese light with the D handle. Early on , the red/blue switch quit. half way into a dive yesterday. the other switch failed. The batteries have power and when screwing the back with the batteries in place, the led's flash showing they work,but neither switch functions. Does anybody know how to remove the switches to repair the light?
It has the clear plastic surround of the push button switches. Can they be removed? I built a spanner to remove the lens ring but cannot remove the LED unit itself.
It has the clear plastic surround of the push button switches. Can they be removed? I built a spanner to remove the lens ring but cannot remove the LED unit itself.
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That's not the SUPE V6K you have there. It's one of the Chinese lights though I can't see exactly which from the photo. Also, the aluminium body of your light looks slightly different to the ones we normally see posted on here, though the switches look the same. For the switches I used a pair of long nose pliers to grip the switches where the small notches are in the clear plastic and un-screw them that way. To remove the LEDs you simply unscrew the ring holding the lens glass in place and it all falls out, including the PCB. It might be slightly stuck in place due to thermal paste around the edge.
If the light has flooded, chances are the PCB (driver) will be destroyed from the salt water corrosion.
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