Cancun Trip Report!

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JohnCollins

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Well, first dives in 12 years. Not very pretty, but the feeling is starting to come back! I am glad I did the scuba review with an instructor, that's definitely the way to go after a long layoff. I used to dive like a fish (about 60 dives in 4 years in Philippines, Okinawa and the Carribean), but after the long layoff, even with the instruction, my buoyancy control left much to be desired, and although I could clear a full mask, I got a couple of good sinus shots which were not fun at all. I'm ready to go again, though! I'll break this into sections: The Diving, The Review Course, The Dive Operation, and Cancun as a vacation destination in general, so stop reading when you've had enough.

The Diving

Well, certainly nothing very exciting for the seasoned diver, but Cancun is pretty much an ideal place for beginners to learn, or to schedule their first diving vacation after certification. I dove with one instructor and a nice couple from Orlando on a PADI Discover Scuba session. The dives were shallow and short (two about 25 feet depth and half hour in length), but they were just fine for me for several reasons. First, I'm not a fish anymore and so I was thinking a whole lot more. . ."slow down your breathing. . .stop bending your knees while you kick. . .you're sinking. . .watch your breathing again. . .you're rising." It was more or less constant self-talk. And trying to keep track of where the other divers were and not bumping into them took some concentration, too. There was some slight surge, nothing severe by any means, but instead of relaxing with it, I was kicking hard in the ebbs, which was certainly not necessary. Frankly, although I am in fairly good shape, I was pooped after these dives! Clearly, I was getting more relaxed at the end of the second dive (at least until taking a good sinus shot while clearing my mask. . again!), and I'd be as relaxed as a fish again after a couple more dives, I'm sure.

The reefs were very pretty. No walls around Cancun, you have to move over by Cozumel for those, I guess. Several nice shallow reefs surrounded by sandy bottom in shallow depths for learning the basics on, though. Fish life is very abundant and colorful, as is the coral. By taking newer divers around the outskirts of the reefs, they stay in fairly good shape, because we're bouncing off the sandy bottom rather than on the reef itself. The instructor pointed out a stonefish at one point, and we saw tons of fairly large angelfish and lots of others I can't identify (I need to get a good reef fish identification book). They'd often school around us, apparently completely unperturbed by divers. In fact, I was bitten by one of the little buggers on my little finger! Ouch! Had a perfect little 1/2 inch by 1/4 inch double row of fish teeth marks on my finger. Never had that happen before.

The discover scuba couple had mixed reactions. Ashley came down but decided it wasn't for her and the instructor took her back to the boat. Since I wasn't current in my skills I grabbed Michael's BC shoulder strap and we kept in contact, kneeling on the bottom without moving, watching our instructor go up, drop Ashley off and come back down to us. Then we continued. Michael took to it right away and loved it. Probably another dive nut was born that day. Ashley grabbed her snorkel and followed us from above.

I highly recommend the area around Cancun for beginning divers or for brushing up rusty skills. Not demanding at all, and plenty of beautiful reef and fish to watch. If you get adventuresome after a few dives there, Cozumel isn't too hard to get to, and I understand there is some world-class wall and cave diving in the Cozumel area.

The Review Course

Just what you should do after a long layoff from diving. They give you a fifty question multiple choice exam to determine where your knowledge needs beefing up. I was pleased that save for one, none of my missed questions were safety related. I got the magnification factor of things viewed underwater wrong, and I put 5 years for tank inspections, thinking of the hydro-static testing, but I forgot about the visual. I got the preferred priority for an out of air situation wrong, but the instructor straightened me out on that and why. All pressure, volume, technique, hand signals, and dive table calculations were good. So, after debriefing me on missed answers, we determined I was good to go knowledge wise. The test is a good one, covers pretty much all the different factors.

Then it was out to under the pier for skills review. First embarrassing moment. . .I forgot my fins. Got all situated, jumped in, started kicking. . .nothing. :bonk: "Ummmmm, Senor boat driver, would you graby my fins there and toss them, please?" He was polite enough not to laugh, but was stifling a smile. Mask clearing, mask removal and replacement, regulator retrieval, buddy breathing, fin pivot BC practice, then a swim around the pier pilings. It it devilishly hard to stay swimming on the bottom in a full 3mm wetsuit in 8-10 feet of water, let me tell you! I took a good sinus shot on the mask clearing, but other than discomfort, my skills were OK, albeit certainly not what I'd call good. I found out on the short dives that scuba is a little like riding a bicycle, but I was thinking quite a bit, and somewhat awkward. I wish I could say I looked like a fish again after ten minutes, but it's not true. I suspect that after another two tank dives, though, I'd be back near where I was at my peak. It comes back quickly, but I just couldn't squeeze in any more diving this trip.

I honestly don't think this refresher is needed at the start of every season, as some folks recommend, HOWEVER that's assuming you dive at least a few times every year. If you layoff for a season, though, I would highly recommend this refresher as much for the written test and debriefing by an instructor as for the skills review. I am going to my neighbor's pool tomorrow with snorkel gear and a couple weights and I'm going to remove and clear my mask for about a half hour. Even if you don't do this with an instructor, if you have a tank, I'd recommend jumping in the water with a tank and practice all this stuff with a buddy before the first dive of the year. I think the course is pretty much excellent. Just the right stuff and the right amount of stuff for a "tune-up".

The Dive Operation

I was delighted with the dive operation, called Manta Divers. Check out there website here:

www.mantadivers.com

The operation is owned by a couple of Texans, Mimi and John Dykes. Their two sons, Trevor and Tyler, 6 and 3, respectively, help "run" things and pretty much have everybody in the area wrapped around their finger. Mimi and John are great folks, I'm glad I stumbled onto their operation by lucky accident.

My instructor was Candy Lopez, a diver for, I believe 11 or 13 years, and a PADI instructor for 7 years. She's delightful and very professional, and I'd highly recommend you look her up for lessons. On one of the boat rides, I asked her about her diving experience, and she's really been around. After her certification, she worked for the archeological museum in Mexico City, diving for archeological artifacts in Mexican rivers and lakes. After doing that for a while, she went to Egypt and worked as a Red Sea diving instructor and guide for a few years. She's been in Cancun for the last 3-4 years. Her husband, Daniel, is an equipment tech and divemaster who guides at the caves, and they have other instructors and guides, as well.

They have quite a number of diving packages available and their website is well worth the visit. They are a PADI "Gold Palm Resort" operation (tons of certifications and regularly tested air quality), and I recommend them unequivocally.

Cancun as a Vacation Destination in General

Wow! Having lived in the Philippines for a number of years, I went expecting a "third-world experience" but I was pleasantly surprised by the quality of the facilities and the level of service on Cancun. Although there are still vestiges of "third-world-ness" in evidence (if you go by Manta Divers, ask Mimi about her telephone travails after the recent storm. . .I think she may be able to chuckle about it by the time you get there), at the main hotels on the central strip, you wouldn't know you weren't in Orlando, Florida at a Disney Resort. Gorgeous beaches, stunning hotel facilities, wonderful food, cheerful and prompt service, and while not cheap, by any means, it is a terrific value in high-end vacationing. I'd give it an unscientific rating (my opinion :wink: ) as an Orlando resort-type experience at, oh, 80% or 85% of Orlando's prices. My wife and I stayed at the Casa Magna Marriott (which I also highly recommend), and it was as nice a place as we've ever stayed. One of my co-workers went a couple weeks earlier on a last minute, all-inclusive package he found at a travel website and got an unbelievable deal. So you could, if you're flexible about when and exactly where you go, get an Orlando resort experience for less than half the price!

Cancun is great place for families, and the Casa Magna is a great place for kids. I've heard, though, that some of the clubs get a little out of hand around spring break time, so watch your teenagers, if you have any. Find out about Casa Magna here:

http://www.marriott.com/epp/default.asp?MarshaCode=CUNMX

The diving is probably too tame right around Cancun for experienced divers, Cozumel would likel be the place to stay, but I can't comment on it as I didn't get there. My non-diving wife and I did go to Isle Mujeres, however, and that is a great place to go with kids. Food, snorkeling, and "Snuba", surface supplied shallow diving, as well as "Sea Trek" full helmet diving (you walk around in about ten feet of water with this bubble helmet on with a constant air stream and watch the fish) is available. There is a sculpture park, an ocean catwalk, and a hammock garden to relax in. It's a great day-trip. There are archeological sites, bullfights (not for the squeamish), and an ecological theme park nearby. You can do parasailing behind a boat, jetski rentals, and all manner of beach fun.

About the food and water. Our hotel had a sign posted saying the water was filtered and chlorinated, and I drank plenty of it. Cancun is well-developed and they aren't going to stay popular if they get tourists sick. We didn't worry about the ice or water anywhere on the main strip at any of the clubs or restaurants. HOWEVER if you venture away from the ritzy resorts and nicer restaurants on the main strip, I'm quite sure you can get into intestinal trouble in short order. While in Cancun downtown, or on eating at local beachside vendors near the dive operator, I stuck to bottled water, coke, beer and cooked food. . .no fresh salads or fruits. I'm not saying you will have a problem if you do any of that stuff. . .but one bout with "Montezuma's Revenge" in Mexico City 25 years ago is still a vivid enough memory for me to make me very cautious. But at the resorts and main hangouts, I believe you are very safe.

There are more restaurants than you can shake a stick at on the strip, but here are three we tried and recommend.

At the Casa Magna, is the Mikado, a Japanese steak house , sushi bar, and Thai cuisine. Rose and I had an order of Thai Beef Salad, 9 piece Sushi assortment, Thai spring rolls, a spicy Thai beef entree, fried rice, 4 glasses of wine by the glass (should have gotten a bottle!), one dessert and one coffee, with tip it was $95 USD. It was as good or better than any Japanese steak house I've been to, and the food was excellent. I think that's very reasonable, and it's what I'm basing my first-rate vacation at 80% of the price ratio on. Service was perfect. Go there.

Along the strip is a delightful place called La Distelleria serving authentic Mexican food (not the Tex-Mex we're used to) in a place with Tequila distilling equipment and the largest selection of premium tequila I've ever seen, must have been a hundred of them. Food was excellent, the service is simply outstanding. Ask for Fabian if you go there. And definitely go there. The waitstaff is just the most personable I've seen anywhere, they pride themselves on it.

In La Isla Mall (very much like a US shopping mall) we went to a cute little place called La Casa De Las Margaritas. It was incredibly colorful (makes your eyes hurt!), and the music was terrific. They do Mariachi, Marimba, and Jarochos (guitar and harp-my favorite of the bunch) music on a center stage while you eat. The food was good, not high-end by any means, though. I'd characterize this place, food wise, as kind of like a Mexican Applebees or TGIF kind of place with entertainment. Not too expensive, very fun.

In Conclusion

For diving, I'd give Cancun (just the local area, I'm not talking about Cozumel, here) 4 stars out of five for students and inexperienced divers, but only 2-3 stars for very experienced divers. However, if you do a family vacation here with non-divers, world-class diving is not far away. If you all dive, go to Cozumel and stay there.

For the dive operation, Manta Divers, I give it 4 stars. Wonderful folks, and if you're there with non-divers, they will get you to the exciting dive locations around Cozumel from Cancun.

For Cancun as a vacation destination in general, definitely a five star location. And value for the dollar, one of the best values on the planet, IMHO.

JPC
 
JohnCollins once bubbled...
I was pleasantly surprised by the quality of the facilities and the level of service on Cancun. ... For Cancun as a vacation destination in general, definitely a five star location.

Which only goes to show that everything is a matter of taste!

We stayed one night in Cancun during our first visit to the Yucatan a few years ago, and vowed never to do that again ... to our taste it's 'way overdeveloped, Americanized with Planet Hollywoods and whatnot, drinking contests in the hotel swimming pools, etc, etc. An hour down the coast around Akumal or Tulum we found the ambience that fits our family (enough amenities to feel comfortable, but very low-key village-type atmosphere). Now when we go we drive directly from the Cancun airport to points south.

I don't say this with any rancor ... it's just a case of different strokes for different folks. :)
 
JohnCollins once bubbled...

The Diving

Well, certainly nothing very exciting for the seasoned diver, but Cancun is pretty much an ideal place for beginners to learn, or to schedule their first diving vacation after certification.

I also just got back from my first trip to Cancun, and dove the entire week with Marina Club Lagoon Divers (All new equipment, new boat), and I found the diving plenty challenging for an experienced diver. We were there Fourth of July week, and the visibility was 75-100', water temp 84, and the current heavy. Most of our dives were on the outer edge of the barrier reef and in 50' of water.

The first day was very rough, and I had the unfortunate first experience of hurling through a regulator....:wacko:

One of the best dives that we did was on the wreck of the naval boat. They have sunk a 135' naval vessel in 80' of water and made it entirely safe (as safe as a closed space can be at this depth!) to explore. There were "windows" cut into every room that would allow egress (although some of them would require the removal of your BCD).

We saw a giant grouper, a spotted manta and a shark on this dive. The difference in the dive operations was painfully apparent on this dive. While the cut rate folks dumped their divers at the buoy line and expected them to swim down to the wreck against a heavy current (probably burning a 1000 of their air supply!), our Capt. Nicki took as up current the the perfect spot, and we descended effortlessly to the up current side of the wreck without a flick of a fin.

Capt. Nicki performed the same navigational feat all week as he precisely positioned our group in the perfect spot to drop down with the current and land at the edge of the reef.

Tonio and Reuben, our DMs were the best that I have ever been in the water with, and their pre-dive briefings were as comprehensive as I have ever heard.

Of course, we made the trip to Cozumel to dive Palancar that week, and there is no comparison, I still had a bunch of satisfying, challenging and unique dives in Cancun.
 
However, this was the first trip longer than an overnight my wife and I had away from the kids in ten years, and she doesn't dive. She drove the location and the Casa Magna was about perfect. To Mama, anything below about a Courtyard by Marriott is like camping, so I have to pick accordingly.

Like you, I'd much prefer some local ambiance and after living in a third world country for a couple of years, I'm perfectly happy in a place with a bed, a strong electric fan, and a toilet that flushes. Shower heads are even optional! I just don't want to have to flush the can with a bucket filled in the bathtub (call me picky! :wink: ).

Like you, I was very dissappointed with the McDonalds, Houlihans, Pizza Hut, etcetera, and we avoided those places. Heck, there's a Houlihans across from my office!! I'll stick by my recommendation, however, of the Casa Magna as a near perfect place for a family with a mix of diving and non-diving members and kids. Well supervised, and no drinking contests. I also agree, though, you DO NOT want to let your teenagers troll around there unsupervised.

I suspect I'm going to start going on dive trips with strangers (friends I don't know yet?) though, because I'm limited by the locations the family will go to, and I'll go literally anywhere for a good diving location. Hopefully, I can entice my teenage daughter into scuba, she's pretty adventuresome.
 
John, congrats on getting back into diving. You were spot on doing the Scuba Review to bring you back to the wonderful world of scuba.

Great report. :thumb:

Dive Safely, Dive Often... don't let it be another 12 years before your next dive! :)

~SubMariner~
 
I hope not! It's too much fun! And the fish are so beautiful, I never get tired of watching them!

It was easy when I lived in the tropics, but I guess I got away from it just from work pressures, having young kids. . .the old life is what happens to you while you're making other plans sort of thing.

I'm going to plan on at least one dive vacation per year, though. Hopefully one of my kids will get into it, but if not--well, I'm doing it for me. :)
 
JohnCollins once bubbled...
To Mama, anything below about a Courtyard by Marriott is like camping, so I have to pick accordingly.

I know how that goes. I'm lucky in that my (non-diving but occasionally snorkeling) wife and son enjoy beachy vacations, but even then there has to be enough non-diving stuff to keep their interest. So liveaboards, for example, would be a no-can-do.

Anyway, glad to hear that you're back in the water after a dozen years, and hope you enjoy it!
 

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