If it like the s600 - Separate tool on opposite side of reg....
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I thought you can use an inline adjuster. Remove the LP hose...attach the LP hose to the inline adjuster and the adjuster to the second stage. DGX adjuster has a flat blade on one side and a Allen on the other side...I wasn't sure which side you use into the G260 second stageIf it like the s600 - Separate tool on opposite side of reg....
Do you adjust the hex under the rubber cap with the adjustment knob all the way out? or in the middle? I would assume all the way out but wanted to know for certainLol! You guys are getting wrapped around the axle!
@gqllc007, the answer to your question is "the flat blade end" because that's what the orifice has.
But in defense of the rest of you, the reason for the confusion is that the "tuning" that's being discussed here is not the orifice seal to the LP seat, but the tension on the spring at the other end of the poppet.
THAT is the adjuster that has the hex broach hidden under the rubber cap on the G260. It's the fine tuning for the adjustment knob.
As always,
1: "seal the orifice to the LP seat under pressure"
2: "add 1/12 turn (5 minutes on the clock) to the orifice to allow for seat set"
3: "go to the other side of the poppet and tune the spring pressure for desired cracking effort."
Same for all balanced second stages. If lever height isn't right after a LP seal plus 1/12 turn, then there are other factors at work.
For myself, when I do this sort of tune the knob is all the way out, I tune them pretty tight (or loose in the adjustment) and can make up for dribble if it happens with the knob.Do you adjust the hex under the rubber cap with the adjustment knob all the way out? or in the middle? I would assume all the way out but wanted to know for certain