Can I tune my SP G260?

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If it like the s600 - Separate tool on opposite side of reg....
I thought you can use an inline adjuster. Remove the LP hose...attach the LP hose to the inline adjuster and the adjuster to the second stage. DGX adjuster has a flat blade on one side and a Allen on the other side...I wasn't sure which side you use into the G260 second stage
 
Two different adjustments, orifice on one side (hose) and balance chamber on the other (knob)...
 
If you want to adjust inhalation cracking pressure which side would you do? Wouldn't you turn the adjustment knob all the way out and then adjust from the orifice side with an inline adjuster??
 
I am sure someone can explain this better, but in my understanding: On the modern regs you first adjust the lever height using the orifice with a flat screwdriver (on the hose side). And then since these regs have an adjustable knob on the other side with an internal screw (aka micoadjuster), you basically vary the length of the adjuster knob by extending out that internal nylon screw (S600, G260, Atomic, Apeks XTX). This changes the spring loading and consequently the inhalation resistance.

On earlier regs like the G250 with a simpler adjustment knob there is only the orifice to adjust, and you rely on the precision of the spring specification to achieve the desired inhalation resistant at the correct lever height. If not you have to swap springs or bend the lever.
 
At the knob end there’s a rubber plug, remove it and you'll see the adjuster.
 
Lol! You guys are getting wrapped around the axle!
@gqllc007, the answer to your question is "the flat blade end" because that's what the orifice has.
But in defense of the rest of you, the reason for the confusion is that the "tuning" that's being discussed here is not the orifice seal to the LP seat, but the tension on the spring at the other end of the poppet.
THAT is the adjuster that has the hex broach hidden under the rubber cap on the G260. It's the fine tuning for the adjustment knob.

As always,
1: "seal the orifice to the LP seat under pressure"
2: "add 1/12 turn (5 minutes on the clock) to the orifice to allow for seat set"
3: "go to the other side of the poppet and tune the spring pressure for desired cracking effort."
Same for all balanced second stages. If lever height isn't right after a LP seal plus 1/12 turn, then there are other factors at work.
 
Lol! You guys are getting wrapped around the axle!
@gqllc007, the answer to your question is "the flat blade end" because that's what the orifice has.
But in defense of the rest of you, the reason for the confusion is that the "tuning" that's being discussed here is not the orifice seal to the LP seat, but the tension on the spring at the other end of the poppet.
THAT is the adjuster that has the hex broach hidden under the rubber cap on the G260. It's the fine tuning for the adjustment knob.

As always,
1: "seal the orifice to the LP seat under pressure"
2: "add 1/12 turn (5 minutes on the clock) to the orifice to allow for seat set"
3: "go to the other side of the poppet and tune the spring pressure for desired cracking effort."
Same for all balanced second stages. If lever height isn't right after a LP seal plus 1/12 turn, then there are other factors at work.
Do you adjust the hex under the rubber cap with the adjustment knob all the way out? or in the middle? I would assume all the way out but wanted to know for certain
 
Do you adjust the hex under the rubber cap with the adjustment knob all the way out? or in the middle? I would assume all the way out but wanted to know for certain
For myself, when I do this sort of tune the knob is all the way out, I tune them pretty tight (or loose in the adjustment) and can make up for dribble if it happens with the knob.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

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