Buying gear

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On the subject of buying LDS, I have been buying smaller items, books, fins and flashlights etc from different ones and have found that is a good way to get to know service and professionalism of a dive shop before I make any big investments with them. Likely to buy from the guys who offer classes in equipment maintanence and repair, all else being equal.
 
While we do get a number of inquiries about gear packages and do have a few on our site, I usually try to drill deeper into the customer's needs. Dive gear truly is not a one-size-fits-all type of thing. Either the BCD doesn't fit right or the reg set breathes funny in that person's mind. Given that, I usually try to work with the diver on what their wants and needs then build a package that works for them. At that point, we'll work with them on a package discount. I'd say see what you like, perhaps rent for a few outings, then make a list of wants and needs. Only then should you begin shopping. Take your time, that way you'll only have to spend the money once.
 
We bought both sets of our gear used. $500 each set for BC, regs, computer, bag, plus LOTS of other assorted stuff.
After a bunch of dives, lost a bit of weight so the BC's didn't fit any more, got a backplate n wing. Just sold the BC's to someone else.

I figure if I had bought the equipment new - we would not have... $1500 of stuff is very steep, but $500 that's manageable.

Good luck...
 
If you have to start out by saying "I'm not trying to be a dick"...you are.

I will keep probably keep my jacket style as well.

For a new diver, a jacket style is definately easier on the surface. I think we can agree on that. As far as the trim at depth is concerned, my experience was it was easier to get a Ranger prone than any of the several BCDs ( Sherwood, Dacor, Mares and a few others - all jacket type) I tried first. I dove another back inflate as well with the same results. I don't remember the name but it did have the lever activated power inflate device.
Jay

You are right and I apologise for being personal.

Unless you are an instructor I wouldn't bother with keeping the bcd. Honestly chopping and changing won't help you. But that's just my opinion.

I agree that on the surface it's easier. Especially if you are overweighted and if you are uncomfortable in water. But I'd still advocating sorting out weighting (number one diver problem in my opinion), and then working on your own technique would be far superior to equipment changes.

I'm saying this as someone who has just spent a lot on a pretty halcyon wing, bp and wing. I'm not anti wing - I just don't want someone new to diving to think it's the main priority. It's like golf - the clubs matter when you know how to swing them, and then only a little bit.
 
Thank you everyone for all of your information and insight. Invaluable information.

Follow-up question - if looking on Craigslist, SB Classifieds, Ebay, etc. How can you tell the overall condition of equipment without necessarily having the ability to get it wet?

What do you look for in the BCD and Reg specifically? Any tell tale signs to look for to just walk away? I don't mean to sound ignorant, but this isn't like buying a used car where you pull up and find a giant puddle of oil under the car and just keep going.
 
I don't have enough knowledge to determine if used equipment is in good shape, so I didn't buy anything used. Some LDS will sell used equipment, so that might be something to look at. At least the equipment would have been given the once over, or at least you hope so.
 
bcd has to pass 3 tests. there isn't much
Positive inflation-inflate it all the way orally and make sure it doesn't leak
Look test-can't look like it's about to fall apart
Fit-bp/w doesn't matter unless you are way outside the backplate size range, but if buying a jacket, it has to fit properly

regs-
two ways of doing this. If you don't intend to have them serviced before use, then buy an IP gauge and bring it with you, and make sure to put it on a tank to verify that the regs actually breathe, and the IP is stable. This sounds more intimidating than it is, but you literally plug a pressure gauge into the bc inflator hose and make sure it is somewhere between 130-150psi and stays there.
other way to do it, and all of this applies above, is to intend on having them serviced before use. If that is the case, then you have to do your research and make sure you can still get it serviced *basically don't buy Dacor*, and other than that, make sure it "looks good", nothing cracked, no nasty salt deposits, etc etc. Regulators have basically nothing that can go wrong that can't be fixed during service outside of broken piece *extremely rare and a sign of some very nasty abuse*. Based on that, I will ask for some detailed pictures and then usually buy sight unseen with no concerns because they're going to be serviced before I take them into a cave. If it's for OW, and they pass the test above, I'll use them with no problem in open water no matter how old the last service was, but that is not my official recommendation.
 
Lots of the stuff you will find will be almost new and in excellent condition, stored inside, and rinsed after use. That will be pretty obvious just by looking at it. Colors won't be faded, hoses will still look new, any velcro won't be frayed, and the owners manuals may still be with it. Ask the obvious questions, how old, last service, original owner, how many dives, etc. Short of an agreement to buy it pending a checkout by an equipment tech, there is always going to be a risk of a lemon. Also do your research online as well, just because someone bought a new bcd 4 years ago for $700 at their LDS and wants $500 for it...it may be available on line for $300 brand new, with warranty, as a discontinued model.

The first set I bought was older and cheap, but included 4 tanks so just the tanks made it worth it. I got 2 sets of Dacor Extreme regulator sets in the deal...lesson learned. They breathe great, but servicing them is an issue. Dacor was bought out and the new company (Mares I think) quit making service kits for them.

As far as tanks go, other than the "bad alloys" in older aluminum tanks, born on date, last vis, and last hydro. Know in advance what hydro and vis will cost and work that into the equation. There is always a chance it could fail vis and be condemmed, especially if it is out by several years. You could always offer to pay for a vis and fill, and buy it if it passes, but that's more than most sellers would want to mess with.

You can always Google the brand and model and see if there are any common issues to look for.

Facebook has been overrun with garage sale sites, we have one in Oklahoma for scuba gear. I have found several great deals there, you might search in you area.

Finally, check with your LDS, many of the shops around here will sell their used rental/training gear in December for around half price. It will all be serviced and ready to go.

By the way, Leisure Pro has a IP Guage for $7.95.

Good luck
Jay
 
Follow-up question - if looking on Craigslist, SB Classifieds, Ebay, etc. How can you tell the overall condition of equipment without necessarily having the ability to get it wet? What do you look for in the BCD and Reg specifically? Any tell tale signs to look for to just walk away?
tbone has pretty much hit the mark on BCDs and regs. If the BCD will inflate, and hold air for an extended period it should work for you. Most divers don't have an IP gauge to check their regs, so the advice is good, but may not be practical for all.

Pictures can be a big help. Knowing the brand and model is important. As tbone also mentioned, don't buy gear that can no longer be serviced, even if it looks good and is in working order. If you see something on eBay / Craig'slist / etc., and you want to know more about it, post a note on SB

Over the years I have purchased A LOT of used equipment, both non-scuba as well as scuba gear - including backplates, wings, regs, lift bags, etc., on eBay. With two exceptions - both regs - I have had very good success with scuba items. In one case the second stage housing had a small crack. I don't know if the seller knew that, or just sold it because it was breathing 'wet'. But, it cost me $17 for a new housing and the reg was good as new. In the other case, the first stage had been poorly serviced, and there were some work to be done.

When buying on eBay in particular, check the seller listing to see if the item is being sold as 'No returns'. That may diminish your enthusiasm (although I have only had to return an item once). But, the main thing is, if you decide to bid on something, have a maximum price in mind BEFORE you start bidding, and stick to it. I love eBay auctions, and auctions in general But, I have seen some ridiculous sale prices, because a bidder decided s/he really wanted something, and got sucked into the frenzy of bidding which often occurs in the last hour of an auction. My maximum is generally 'no more than 50% of the lowest (online) NEW price I can find before I bid. I have walked away from a lot of items
 

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