Buying a tank, if you don't know what you're buying

[Mr. Manfrenjensenden]

Hello,

Inexperienced diver here. I have all of my own gear, except weights and a tank. Given rental prices in my area (Boston) and the amount of shore diving I expect to do this summer, I think I should buy a tank. I see a posting on Craigslist for a batch of used AL80s for $60 each with the line "need hydro, visual are all good." Is it a bad idea to be buying a used tank if you don't have any way to evaluate yourself whether it's in proper condition? I called around and to do a hydro inspection in my area seems to run about $50. Looks like a new tank would be about $170 shipped to my house.

Thanks,
Peter

 

[emoreira]

I would recommend never buy a used tank without Hydro inspection done recently. You don´t know if the tank will pass the needed Hydro inspection.
No one will fill a tank with an expired Hydro.
Even if you buy a compressor to fill yourself your own tanks I would not fill a tank with an expired Hydro bought used. The risk is too high for a very little difference.
$ 60 each tank + $ 50 for Hydro each. For $ 60 more you can have a brand new tank with 5 years on sight to the next Hydro.

 

[2airishuman]

Hello,

Inexperienced diver here. I have all of my own gear, except weights and a tank. Given rental prices in my area (Boston) and the amount of shore diving I expect to do this summer, I think I should buy a tank. I see a posting on Craigslist for a batch of used AL80s for $60 each with the line "need hydro, visual are all good." Is it a bad idea to be buying a used tank if you don't have any way to evaluate yourself whether it's in proper condition? I called around and to do a hydro inspection in my area seems to run about $50. Looks like a new tank would be about $170 shipped to my house.

Thanks,
Peter

Hello Peter

Most used cylinders for sale are out of hydro and have been sitting for years. The exception would be the active diver who has moved to a different type of cylinder or switched to a rebreather.

I've bought maybe 30 used cylinders. All but one were steel. I've had 3 of them fail hydro, and they were all in a batch I bought at once that had been sitting outside for several years without air in them. One of the ones that failed had filled halfway with rainwater. One of the ones that passed had filled halfway with rainwater. Cylinders are tough and while hydro failures do happen, they are rare.

For AL80s, check the date. Anything made before 1990 is, at best, more trouble than it's worth, because of known problems with the alloy used back then:

Is my cylinder made from the "bad" alloy aka AL6351?

Steel cylinders of any era are still good, provided they pass, but know what you're buying as there are some older/oddball cylinders out there that aren't especially useful for diving either because of insufficient capacity or because of buoyancy problems.

Ask what is included in a hydro test. Most scuba shops send their hydro work out but also include a VIP sticker, neck o-ring, face o-ring, and air fill in the price. Some will perform valve maintenance if necessary. Some will replace the burst disk. I usually disassemble the valves on the cylinders I buy, clean them, and replace all the o-rings and the burst disc.

 

[pconsidine]

If you do your research you can get hydro's for less than $25. either going to a local welding supply company or fire extinguisher co.-dive shops usually send out to these facilities then charge you 100% markup..

 

[Mr. Manfrenjensenden]

If you do your research you can get hydro's for less than $25. either going to a local welding supply company or fire extinguisher co.-dive shops usually send out to these facilities then charge you 100% markup..

Thanks for the tip, will definitely look into this.

 

[Mr. Manfrenjensenden]

Thanks for the replies. I've read through a bunch of reviews of pros cons of aluminum/steel and various tank sizes but am not sure what would be best for me. Here's my situation:

• I've only ever dived AL80s. The buoyancy issues people cite for aluminum tanks haven't bothered me.
• I have always ended dives because I run out of air instead of bottom time
• I'd like to do this on a budget, but if a better solution is a bit more money, that's ok
• I'm not currently Nitrox certified but intend to get certified

What kind of tank (or tanks) would you recommend I buy?

There are two LP85 Faber steel tanks with plus rating for sale in my area, with inspections through 2018 and 2019. $300 for the pair, with offers accepted. Would these be a decent option, and what's a reasonable price?

 

[Marie13]

Have you considered AL100s?

 

[Jayfarmlaw]

I've purchased several aluminum tanks off Craigslist and been fine so far. 2air already identified the bad alloy issue so make sure you check the date. If the tanks have been stored inside with air in them and appear to be in good condition, your probably ok, but there is always a chance it won't pass visual or hydro. That's a chance you take buying used. If it's just out of Vis, you might be able to make that part of the sale. If they pass, you will buy them, if not, you're out the cost of vis and fill. (Around $15 in my area).

Steel tanks rust. You can usually plan on having them tumbled, blasted, or brushed at Vis time. I have a lp95 and 72 I would happily trade for aluminum 100s. Great tanks, great shape, it's just at least $25 more at visual time due to flash rust. I think I have 6 al80's, the steel tanks, and an aluminum 27 as a pony. Visuals add up.

All of my tanks were bought used. All passed visual (luckily) I prefer aluminum for the lower maintenance, but steel is nice to dive for the lower weight needs. I would not hesitate to buy newer aluminum tanks in good condition.

Good luck,
Jay

 

[teknitroxdiver]

Thanks for the replies. I've read through a bunch of reviews of pros cons of aluminum/steel and various tank sizes but am not sure what would be best for me. Here's my situation:

• I've only ever dived AL80s. The buoyancy issues people cite for aluminum tanks haven't bothered me.
• I have always ended dives because I run out of air instead of bottom time
• I'd like to do this on a budget, but if a better solution is a bit more money, that's ok
• I'm not currently Nitrox certified but intend to get certified

What kind of tank (or tanks) would you recommend I buy?

There are two LP85 Faber steel tanks with plus rating for sale in my area, with inspections through 2018 and 2019. $300 for the pair, with offers accepted. Would these be a decent option, and what's a reasonable price?

LP85s are very nice tanks. They are slim, lightweight, and hold a decent amount of air. $300 for two is a good deal, if they are in current hydro and in good condition I would do it. Another good option (if you can get a full fill) is an HP100. Similarly sized and a little more air. But you're unlikely to find a pair for $300.

Have you considered AL100s?

That would be a bad choice. An AL100 is taller, fatter, and a full 5 pounds heavier than an HP100, and not much if any cheaper. And you still have to find a 3300 psi fill. Even worse compared to an LP85, which is 10 pounds (!) lighter and an inch narrower. The buoyancy characteristics of the steel tanks are superior as well.

 

[Caveeagle]

There are two LP85 Faber steel tanks with plus rating for sale in my area, with inspections through 2018 and 2019. $300 for the pair, with offers accepted. Would these be a decent option, and what's a reasonable price?

LP Faber 85s are great tanks. In Hydro, those would get snapped up within a few hrs at that price around here.

.. HP100s would probably be better for salt water diving and getting fills at typical LDS.