Brinyte DIV10 "3000 Lumen" Canister light Review

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just came across this thread, im new to the light scene. im very interested in the DIV10. reading through this thread ive realized i need :

battery cells for it - i have no idea how many and of which kind or best place to look, also a charger for said batteries? how much is that typically?
the cord coming from the canister is stiff and some have recommended replacing it - whats a good option for this?


im getting different links to what seems the same light - is this infact the DIV10 3000 lumen? - Brinyte CREE XML U2 3000LM Scuba Diving 3 LED Bulb Flashlight Torch Lamp 150M | eBay
 
You'll need 3 button top 26650s. I really like King Kong. There are plenty of cheaper brands that will overrate their capacity by a factor of 2. The chargers can be found a few pages back. Batteries and charger will run you about $50. More if you want a second set. Mountain Electronics - MTN electronics comes highly recommended, although I ordered from fasttech. I saved a few bucks, but paid for it with a 2 month shipping time. I would not recommend it.

You posted in Andrewy's thread also. It's worth noting this light isn't particularly wide angled, and would likely not be great for gopro video although I haven't tried. I just ordered my drysuit and will be able to test it out with video up here sometime after.

This is the cheapest ebay listing I've seen: 3000LM CREE XML U2 Diving 3 LED Flashlight Torch Lamp 150M Waterproof Camping | eBay
although I have no experience and make no guarantee of the seller.
 
awesome thanks, not interested in using this for go pro - more for a primary light for wrecks and night dives
 
How difficult will it be to swap out the thin battery can for a larger capacity conventional battery pack?
 
It should not be difficult, but it is also not as easily as putting E/O onto another canister. The diver is in the canister. So your new canister needs to have space for the driver, and the proper switching mechanism. If you relocate the driver into the head, then you may need to find a way to put the switch.
 
It should not be difficult, but it is also not as easily as putting E/O onto another canister. The diver is in the canister. So your new canister needs to have space for the driver, and the proper switching mechanism. If you relocate the driver into the head, then you may need to find a way to put the switch.
To correct you: driver is in the canister ;)
LoL

And yeah this light is no good to modify like that..
It's is "glued" together and has the driver in the cainster with a matching magnetic switch for it ... i know, my div10 is in many many pieces now ;)
You have to use heat to disassembled parts, and it "will" damage o-rings.

im using the canister for a custom light in the build now, and i will be adding a new toggle switch to the bottom of the can.
 
can someone post a pic of the sharp part of the canister gland responsible for cable cutting?

Also, if the glands are glued down, other reports of these coming unscrewed during use are wrong, correct?
 
They said they are shipping the 3-LED one and it was their mix up, and just said to send the other light to a place in the states for return.

Received the 3-LED light today, and they reimbursed me for shipping the other one back. Have batteries on the charger now for testing it out once I have the chance.
 
Received the 3-LED light today, and they reimbursed me for shipping the other one back. Have batteries on the charger now for testing it out once I have the chance.

Pics/vid maybe. There's not much out there on this. Also what charger are you using?
 
What kind of burn time are you guys seeing from the king kong batteries. Iam debating between the div10 or the dustys can
 

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