Bauer Junior II eating belts like crazy

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I've just re-tensioned the belt. It's a PITA procedure since I must loosen 6 hard-to-access bolts. I'm beginning to think I'm missing a step. When I put a new belt on the thing I should re-visit the belt tension after a few runs since it probably relaxes a bit. I know the new belts on my diesels need a bit of run-in before they hold tension.
Single belt? How many horsepower?
 
is the belt the right one. IE is the pulley a v shaped one or a partial v pulley with a flat part on it. if the belt dies not have the same bevel as the pulley you will eat it not only from mis matched surfaces but from the over tightening you would do because of you over attempt keep it from slipping due to the mis match. I see this on mower deck drive belts. also if the compressor had a motor to engine change are the pulleys on the engine and compressor have the same grove design?
 
is the belt the right one. IE is the pulley a v shaped one or a partial v pulley with a flat part on it. if the belt dies not have the same bevel as the pulley you will eat it not only from mis matched surfaces but from the over tightening you would do because of you over attempt keep it from slipping due to the mis match. I see this on mower deck drive belts. also if the compressor had a motor to engine change are the pulleys on the engine and compressor have the same grove design?

To my eye the pulleys both look to be appropriate. The belt looks like it is mating up properly into the v-grove of each pulley. Next time I pull out my replacement belts I'll look very closely at the bevel angles.

I'm certain the motor-compressor set are the stock equipment. Thanks for these ideas guys, I wouldn't have thought to check these items.
 
Yes, just one belt. The gas engine nameplate rating is 5.5 HP.
I wonder if you are running a fractional horsepower belt in sheaves that are for a wider belt. If so the belt will drop to the bottom of the grooves and slip like crazy. Badly worn sheaves will do the same thing but I doubt that is the problem. Anyway, the shiny area where the belt runs should not be at the bottom of the grooves.
 
I've just re-tensioned the belt. It's a PITA procedure since I must loosen 6 hard-to-access bolts. I'm beginning to think I'm missing a step. When I put a new belt on the thing I should re-visit the belt tension after a few runs since it probably relaxes a bit. I know the new belts on my diesels need a bit of run-in before they hold tension.
Honestly I have only used 2 belts in about 900 hours on my alkins. Never had to retension and I usually swap between my electric motor belt and gas engine belt at least once a year when I take the compressor on the road.

Use a yardstick (meterstick) to make sure the pulley and flywheel are in alignment. If that's not it, then I think you have the wrong belt size - its probably too thin. What is the exact width of the top of sheaves?
 
In these cases one should change the whole transmission, pulleys and belts.
My Bristol compressor has a 2.5 kW electric motor and uses a double belt.The belts are the same in 20 years.
I would recommend you mounting a double belt transmission, properly designed for the power being transmitted.
 
Never had one shed rubber either. Only replaced the original one because I thought it was time after 16 years.
 
I have an Oceanus, same basicly, and it came setup with a segmented belt. It ate that up. Changed to solid belt and all good.
 

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