Backplate - SS or ALU?

[Selachimorpha]

I have a question regarding the selection of a stainless steel vs an aluminium backplate.

My problem is the following, I dive all year round, nearly every day. However, red sea winter is in a dry suit, red sea summer is in boardshorts and rash vest. In between somewhere is usually a 5mm full suit.

Do I buy a Stainless Steel backplate, probably better for the winter, or do I buy an Aluminium backplate, better for the summer?

Don't say both, I am a poor diving instructor....
(I know I will end up getting both, but want a decision for now...)

The problem with getting the steel plate is that in the summer I will be overweighted. I don't like that. When I dive an AL80 with no suit I am pretty negative.

They sell theses weight pockets here for cam bands that look just like the halcyon or xs scuba weight pockets, but are very cheap. I was thinking of putting some pockets on the two cam straps (probably two pockets per strap) then I can play around with the weights.
Like this I could get the aluminium backplate, but still move lots of weight of the belt and to my back for the drysuit.

Any ideas? Anyone dive this kind of configuration with a drysuit?

 

[Scott]

The problem with getting the steel plate is that in the summer I will be overweighted. I don't like that. When I dive an AL80 with no suit I am pretty negative.

They sell theses weight pockets here for cam bands that look just like the halcyon or xs scuba weight pockets, but are very cheap. I was thinking of putting some pockets on the two cam straps (probably two pockets per strap) then I can play around with the weights.
Like this I could get the aluminium backplate, but still move lots of weight of the belt and to my back for the drysuit.

Your concern is valid and makes the decision for you. You have also provided a solution that works.

 

[LeadTurn_SD]

Hi Selachimorpha,

SS backplates weight about 5.5 lbs, aluminum plates about 2 lbs. So the difference is about 3.5 lbs. If you use a STA for single tanks, add from 2-5 lbs, depending on the design of the STA. Also, if you are transitioning from a jacket-style BC to a BP/W, most jacket BC's have at least a couple lbs of positive buoyancy due to the extra padding, cummerbund, etc.; this buoyancy is lost when you transition to a BP/W, and needs to be considered if you are already overweighted when diving in the summer.

As you mentioned you could use an aluminum plate and add the extra weight with a weight pocket(s) on the camstraps for winter diving.

Best wishes.

 

[ptyx]

Depends how much weight you need with your drysuit?

I dive an AL backplate with a drysuit. With an HP100 I need 12 pounds, which fit very comfortably in small halcyon weight pockets.

With an AL80 it's a bit of a stretch, I either need to trade the weight pouches for mesh bags or put some of the weight on the tank so I can fit the 19/20 pounds. If I were diving AL80 more often, I'd probably either switch to a steel BP or use a weighted STA.

 

[dkktsunami]

I would go with the steel. You will be in salt water and with any wet suit you will be adding weight - XS Scuba pockets on the two cam bands work great. My ss plate is 5lbs - in fresh water with a 3 mm I add no weight (and may be a little heavy) but in salt with a 7mm I am adding 14 lbs in 4 XS Scuba pockets (2 4's and 2 3's). With the dry suit you will need more. Rather be a little heavy in my skivvies than adding lead the rest of the time.

 

[TSandM]

You can always add weight, but you can't subtract it from a plate that weighs too much.

When I travel, I take my DSS Kydex plate. I have XS Scuba weight pouches on the cambands, to which I can add up to 10 lbs, and put whatever else I need on a belt.

I used 6 kg with my drysuit and double Al80s in the Red Sea, and I'm generally on the high requirement side for weight, so I'd be looking at probably 2 to 3 kg more for a single tank. That's pretty manageable with weight pouches and a belt.

 

[rcs9250]

Just get or make your self a vee weight for the aluminum plate. A vee weight
lays in the groove formed in the middle of the plate. Some folks use the plate as a mold. They just dam up a portion of the vee and pour lead into it. If you go that route learn a little about molten lead and it's dangers first. An easier way is to get some tubular nylon strap like rock climbers use for making straps and slings. Cut a length of it and seal up one end with a hot knife. A little up from the end install a brass or preferably stainless steel grommet. This can be done by a sail maker or parachute rigger or you can buy a kit in the hardware store. Next fill the tubular strap with lead shot. You can only put so much in as you will need to seal it off at the fill end and then install a grommet at that end too. You will have to experiment a little to see how much it weighs.
You can also make these in a pair just sealing the end with heat and maybe sewing it and then just cable tie it on the left and right edges of your plate.
Both are pretty economical solutions.
Dive safe.

 

[Guy Alcala]

You can always add weight, but you can't subtract it from a plate that weighs too much.

When I travel, I take my DSS Kydex plate. I have XS Scuba weight pouches on the cambands, to which I can add up to 10 lbs, and put whatever else I need on a belt.

I used 6 kg with my drysuit and double Al80s in the Red Sea, and I'm generally on the high requirement side for weight, so I'd be looking at probably 2 to 3 kg more for a single tank. That's pretty manageable with weight pouches and a belt.

Lynne, off the subject, do you have any problems with the rivets (joining the metal to the plastic) on the Kydex plate snagging your drysuit? Every time I look at one of those for warm water diving the (probably miniscule) possibility of ripping big holes in my drysuit gets into my head and turns me away from them, which is a pity because I like the DSS plate design. And I also wonder just how strong and rigid the Kydex plate is compared to Al. Has anyone ever cracked one where the metal and plastic join?:focus:
Guy

 

[cool_hardware52]

Lynne, off the subject, do you have any problems with the rivets (joining the metal to the plastic) on the Kydex plate snagging your drysuit? Every time I look at one of those for warm water diving the (probably miniscule) possibility of ripping big holes in my drysuit gets into my head and turns me away from them, which is a pity because I like the DSS plate design. And I also wonder just how strong and rigid the Kydex plate is compared to Al. Has anyone ever cracked one where the metal and plastic join?:focus:
Guy

We've had zero reports of cracked Kydex Plates, and had zero warranty replacements.

The rivets used are orbitally formed, which leaves a smooth low profile head.

A Kydex plate has 14 rivets, only four of which are "set" on the divers side of the plate. These are in bottom of the center channel reinforcement. That's a long way from the dive and suit.

If these rivets are a concern how do you feel about the bolts on a set of doubles?

Kydex plates are slightly flexible, but are routinely used with big steel doubles and Rebreathers.

Tobin

 

[TSandM]

What Tobin said . . . I think if you saw a Kydex plate setup, it would set your mind at rest. Nothing snags.

I have put my Kydex plate on doubles with very short bolts, and had to lean on the thing to get the wing nuts started. You can see it flex. Nothing has cracked. My Kydex plate is almost four years old now, I think, and has done 2 1/2 years of cave diving travel. Having the plate flex a bit has been more than handy on occasion, when Peter's rigid plate couldn't be used on a set of doubles, and mine could.