Atomic SS1 vs. ScubaPro AIR2

[Dugongberbulu]

Does anyone have comments on which is more reliable: Atomic SS1 vs. ScubaPro AIR2? I would love to hear comments on ease of breathing, possible free flows , ease of cleaning, and any other concerns.

Thanks all!

 

[D_B]

AIR 2 ... Only thing I can comment on is that we (my dive buddy) thought it breathed easer than our rental reg's and have never had it free flow

(I'm probably going to get a longer hose for primary reg. to make air sharing easer/safer/more comfortable)

DB

 

[wmspdi]

I had an Atomic SS1 and the unit worked very well without free flows. However it is not a balanced second stage so don't expect the performance of one. The issue I had with mine was more the stiffness of the low pressure hose, combined with the BCD hose, which made the SS1 want to "spring out of my mouth" if I turned my head to the left.

Also an issue is dumping air from the BCD. You have to remove the SS1 or Air 2 to dump air from your BC unless you have a second shoulder dump valve on the right shoulder. You could rotate to a "heads down" position and use the lower pull dump valve, but this not practicle on ascents when you will be venting air on the way up.

I solved the problem by ordering the dedicated hose for Seaquest's Air Source. The Air Source hose has a point midway through the hose where the shoulder dump cable attaches. With this hose you can pull on the BC hose midway between the octo/inflator, and dump valve, and release air from your jacket without having to remove the SS1 from your mouth. The disadvantage of this hose is that it is very stiff.

After almost biting the mouthpiece off (trying to keep the octo in my mouth) I went back to a balanced M1 second stage with a "cracking pressure" adjustment knob. I rotate the knob about 1/2 turn to increase the cracking pressure on the M1 second stage to eliminate freeflows, and just turn the knob back to the lightest setting to reduce the cracking pressure it if I have to use it.

My dive buddy uses the Air 2 (with a Scubapro BCD) and loves it...

I hope this helps.

 

[DA Aquamaster]

As indicated above, dumping requires practice unless you have a separate right shoulder dump valve. A longer corrogated hose is also helpful to make using an Air 2/SS1 more comfortable.

When I used one, I found that you could pull on the corrogated hose (not the LP hose) anywhere in the middle and stretch it enough to dump with no problem.

As for a comparision of the SS1 and Air 2, they are essentially identical so any differences come down to how each is adjusted. The Air 2 shares essentially the same poppet assembly as the R190 or R390 just with a smaller diaphragm and lever so it is capable of pretty good breathing performance if properly adjusted.

I have found the Air 2 and Tusa Duo Air clone to be very reliable and free flow free. The qualifier here is that you need to replace the orifice o-ring during annual service to ensure totally freeflow free operation over the next season and this o-ring is not in the annual service kits, so the tech has to have his stuff together to do a truly good job on them.

I would bet that 95% of complaints about slight freeflows relate to either improper technician adjustment or failure to replace this o-ring at each service. l

 

[flyguy]

I have an Atomic SS1 but can't compare it to the ScubaPro. It has never free flowed on me and breaths very well for a integrated inflator octopus, even at 100ffw. It's not the same as my primary (Atomic B1) but for a secondary it will defiantly do the job as a secondary.

The inflator buttons are easy to use on the surface and under water but I've accidentally hit the inflator button many of times when donning my gear.

 

[djanni]

Also an issue is dumping air from the BCD. You have to remove the SS1 or Air 2 to dump air from your BC unless you have a second shoulder dump valve on the right shoulder.

That's not what you meant to say is it? You do not have to remove either one to dump air from your BC.

I like the SS1. It breaths well. No free flows. Dumps air without having to be removed!!!!

However, it simply unscrews from the corrugated hose so it's very easy to remove it for travel.

 

[Dugongberbulu]

All, thanks for your comments.

DA: you mention "when you used", can you tell me why you stopped using? Also, how hard was it to increase the length of the corragulated hose?

 

[D_B]

Just a note: If you have one of these and no octo , your buddy takes your primary reg and you use your AIR-2 / SS1 ... When you do, your pretty much going to be locked face to face holding each others BC straps That is why I'm pretty sure that I am going to a longer hose for my primary reg

DB

 

[spectrum]

My wife and each tried SS1s in a dive shop pool. Can't say much about performance except that I did try it and it worked. I can say that she fell inlove with the inflators button function. The love affair ended when we talked the combo vs dedicated safe second decision through. She disliked the SP buttons strongly. In the end she went with DIVA Lx and is comfortable.

 

[DA Aquamaster]

All, thanks for your comments.

DA: you mention "when you used", can you tell me why you stopped using? Also, how hard was it to increase the length of the corragulated hose?

I switched to independent doubles and a long hose primary regulator. The Air 2 is still potentially useful in this configuration as it gives you another second stage to access one of the tanks without an additional hose, but I felt it was overly redundant and I prefered to go with a much shorter inflator hose for streamlining purposes.

Switching to a longer corrogated hose is not overly difficult. You basically clip off the zip ties holding the old hose on and attach the new one with a new pair of zip ties. You obviously need a longer corrogated hose to start with and then may need a longer LP hose as well.

If you are using a dump valve incorporated into the base of the corrogated inflator hose, you will need to rig a longer dump cable as well. This is also not overly difficult but requires a suitable piece of stainless steel cable and a couple of cable crimps. Normally the cable loop on the inflator end (which is captured by a pin in the Air 2) should go just to the end of the corrogated hose so that only a 1/2 inch or so of stretch is needed to open the dump valve.

If you are not handy with tools and DIY projects, just about any LDS can do the job for you.

Most LDS's will have a longer corrogated hose in their junk bin as most shops scavenge the dump valve assemblies, inflators, and other parts off worn out BC's for future use. If this is the case, you should be able to get a longer hose for little or no money.