Atomic regulators

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Atomic users have nothing but praise for their regulators. What bothers me is the seat saver on the second stage. Doesn't that make rinsing the regulator problematic, as you can't just dunk the thing in the rinse tank without pressurizing?

Since my T2x and SS1 are both made of titanium, corrosion's not an issue. So I never bother to dunk it and and only lightly rinse it.

And after reading an article in Undercurrent earlier this year about how quickly dunk tanks become germ infested cesspools, I don't dunk anything anymore anyway.
 
I am getting tired of SP's servicing schedule and cost especially since they null and voided my lifetime parts wantanty after a 3 year break to rear children. :shakehead:

Atomic still warranties the regs whether or not you get them serviced.

I hate to sound like a cheering section, but there are so few companies that are excellent at something, that it's really impressive.

Terry
 
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my singles setup is a z2 primary with a z2 octo. I use it on 100' dives in mild current in FL as well as in caves (it became my left post on a doubles setup when my SP mk25/s600 was giving me problems).

I have since been the lucky recipient of 2 M1s that I've yet to try but will be either my sidemount or my doubles setup.
The z2 is a very smooth breathing regulator. I do suffer from jaw fatigue generally and it's been mild using the z2 (though has not disappeared). I've yet to use the service but hear outstanding things.
 
What bothers me is the seat saver on the second stage. Doesn't that make rinsing the regulator problematic, as you can't just dunk the thing in the rinse tank without pressurizing?
This is a great question, and I don't have a definitive answer, but here's what I've done and thought:

I didn't notice the manufacturer's admonition about not rinsing unpressurized until years after I bought mine (2 B1s, for self and wife). So I merrily rinsed away. After the initial service, I started doing my own servicing and did not notice any corrosion or other problems anywhere. Once I realized that it was supposed to be a problem, I looked real close and still found no indication that there has been water getting where it shouldn't. My un-scientific conclusion is that it really doesn't matter much and that the manufacturer's caution is extremely conservative. Think about it; if water does get past the seat saver, it's likely to only be a small amount, and where's it going to go? Perhaps a little way into the IP hose. Even if one were to manipulate the hoses in such a way as to work the water back into the first stage, I think the materials there are sufficiently corrsion resistant that it's still not a big deal. And the first time it's put on a cylinder, any water would get blown out.

I've not had my thinking independently confirmed, but I continue to rinse, sometimes with a hose, and sometimes soaking.
 
This is a great question, and I don't have a definitive answer, but here's what I've done and thought:

I didn't notice the manufacturer's admonition about not rinsing unpressurized until years after I bought mine (2 B1s, for self and wife). So I merrily rinsed away. After the initial service, I started doing my own servicing and did not notice any corrosion or other problems anywhere. Once I realized that it was supposed to be a problem, I looked real close and still found no indication that there has been water getting where it shouldn't. My un-scientific conclusion is that it really doesn't matter much and that the manufacturer's caution is extremely conservative. Think about it; if water does get past the seat saver, it's likely to only be a small amount, and where's it going to go? Perhaps a little way into the IP hose. Even if one were to manipulate the hoses in such a way as to work the water back into the first stage, I think the materials there are sufficiently corrsion resistant that it's still not a big deal. And the first time it's put on a cylinder, any water would get blown out.

I've not had my thinking independently confirmed, but I continue to rinse, sometimes with a hose, and sometimes soaking.

The B2 and I presume B1 use titanium for the 2nd stage. So your findings may not apply to the Z2 which use plated brass.

Adam
 
I have been known to soak my regs for more than an hour - mostly after a multiple week trip where there is a fair amount of salt build up. When doing so the first stage goes in while the 2nd stage stays dry. Then I swap them. If I need to do a causal rinse I make sure the first stage is above the 2nd stage which prevents water from entering.

As for cleaning out the lubricant used to environmentally seal as said there are solvents for that. What most people hate the cost $25-$30 worth of lube is used. Unless you are diving in cold <40F (<5C) or really silty water it is not really needed.
 
This is a great question, and I don't have a definitive answer, but here's what I've done and thought:

I didn't notice the manufacturer's admonition about not rinsing unpressurized until years after I bought mine (2 B1s, for self and wife). So I merrily rinsed away.
Atomic has no admonishment against rinsing the regulator un-pressurized, just soaking it un-pressurized.
 
Atomic has no admonishment against rinsing the regulator un-pressurized, just soaking it un-pressurized.
You're absolutely right. I stand corrected, and thank you.
 
You're absolutely right. I stand corrected, and thank you.
I just wanted people to know what Atomic recommends. Mostly, so no one can come back later and say soaking caused them problems. Truth is, I soak mine un-pressurized. Both my ST1 and the SS1. I'm just careful not to press the purge button while they underwater. I also just soak the 1st and the 2nd one-at-a-time, keeping the non-soaking one higher. My equipment is used and kept in a very salty, highly corrosive environment and I need to soak them. If I didn't soak them and I just rinsed them, there would be salt rings around everything. But, I don't really want to keep a tank in my laundry room where the utility sink is. The room's small enough without adding one more thing.:D
 

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