Are Atomics worth the cash?

[Dr. Lecter]

How significant is their cold water capability over sealed diaphrams? A rubber seal filled with christolube sounds quick fix solution to cold water diving. No?

As opposed to a thin silicone diaphram, which isn't a quick fix? I think the more completely sealed nature of the dry seal is what makes the sealing approach somewhat better than the goo-seal approach of the sealed piston regs. Though the diaphrams are surely cheaper and easier to replace.

Moving from the 1st to the 2nd stage, I was interested to learn that one of the reasons AA insisted on a brass/zirconium valve tube on the M1s was its better heat transfer properties. Between that and the sealed 1st stage, I'm happy with my M1s for any water I plan to enter, even if its in the low 40s/high 30s. Ice diving is not one of my aspriations... if it was, I'd look at the issue more closely and would at least consider putting my M1 2nds on my DS4 1sts.

 

[koozemani]

Hijack

I tried starting a thread but have not gotten any replies.

how much would a great deal be on a used Z1 first and second with an oceanic octo?

hijack over

 

[Dr. Lecter]

Probably around $200, give or take a few Andrew Jacksons. Assumes no issues or nasty brass dings, just general wear and tear.

 

[rsingler]

Probably around $200, give or take a few Andrew Jacksons. Assumes no issues or nasty brass dings, just general wear and tear.

Concur. Z2's now appearing for $250. Oceanic octo close to worthless.

BUT...make SURE the Z1 has been updated with the Jet Seat piston. It's identifiable by the rounded rubber cap on the end, as opposed to the flat circular ring that encases the HP seat cap, and shows metal in the middle. (There's nothing special about the rubber cap - just makes the upgrade quickly identfiable)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ATOMIC-AQUA...ultDomain_0&hash=item4d111b36ce#ht_1616wt_722

 

[cbm32]

Just my 2psi but in terms of the original question.....that is up to you. Stuff is worth what someone is willing to pay for it. Do your due diligence in terms of reviews of the equipment in question, as well as your other options, and then pick the one you feel is the right fit and value for you. Doesnt really matter what other people think, it is your money.

 

[halocline]

The only regulator I own that cost more than $100 is my PRAM, which ended up being a lot of $ to completely restore. So to me, no, a new atomic regulator for several hundred is not worth the cash. But neither is a new scubapro, aqualung, apex, hog, you name it, I'm too cheap to buy it new.

 

[rsingler]

The only regulator I own that cost more than $100 is my PRAM, which ended up being a lot of $ to completely restore.

But you'll note, he DID spend more than $200 on a scuba regulator. Just not an Atomic, lol!

For those wondering, a PRAM is a Phoenix Royal Aquamaster, an upgraded version of one of the best-designed double-hose regulators ever made. I'm just now restoring my own Royal AM, and it will doubtless cost me several hundreds to add a Phoenix first stage and get it re-chromed. Don't let halo discourage you from spending beaucoup $$$ on the reg of your choice. He did. And it's as cool as a Titanium T3.
Check out www.vintagedoublehose.com
Grow the family!

Halo,
Don't you just hate it when a new old guy argues with someone who's been on SB since '04?
Ain't Scubaboard great? Any jerk can chime in!
Don't mind me. You're a good man.

 

[halocline]

Don't you just hate it when a new old guy argues with someone who's been on SB since '04?

On the contrary, it's good to have some new folks to argue with....we're getting tired of arguing amongst ourselves!

There's a lot of great information on this board, always something new to learn, and there is also some real nonsense...but that's the way of the world.

 

[scubafanatic]

One issue with a high 'bling factor' reg is how easily upset would you be to see someone else say, boat crew, dragging it across a boat deck ? Pretty regs with lot's of chrome/titanuim will acquire very visable combat damage. Also, reg tech's can have an 'oops!' moment where servicing tools might scratch/marr those pretty (expensive) chrome/titanium surfaces.

 

[Dr. Lecter]

One issue with a high 'bling factor' reg is how easily upset would you be to see someone else say, boat crew, dragging it across a boat deck ? Pretty regs with lot's of chrome/titanuim will acquire very visable combat damage. Also, reg tech's can have an 'oops!' moment where servicing tools might scratch/marr those pretty (expensive) chrome/titanium surfaces.

Anyone who reaches for my gear will get a verbal rebuke before their hands touch it, and a physical intervention if they don't stop; I'm not the only one who has that kind of policy. Then again, having a fully rigged set of double 130s works wonders for making deckhands take interest in anything that looks lighter (like the dive boat itself in many cases).

Regardless, most regulators are chromed brass, no? That's going to be somewhat harmed by marring the chrome, but that's life. If it's a reg tech, you simply explain that they've just bought themselves a marred reg and you'll expect a new one promptly. Ti or SS regs, though... it's cosmetic only. Unlike chrome, these aren't protected by a coating so scratching them is NBD.