Aluminum doubles

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I finally got around to disassembling my double Al80s today for VIP. They haven't been opened up in ~16 months. They are the 'brushed aluminum' finish.

This picture (cell phone camera :rolleyes:) was taken right after getting the bands off. You can see the galvanic corrosion and plenty of dirt. I got all the white gunky stuff off by scrubbing with white vinegar on both the bands and the tanks, but the black dirt stuff refuses to come off.

Any idea on how to get these things back to being spotless?


If it is any concern, there is no pitting from what I can tell.

doubles_nobands.jpg
 
The insulating barrier doesn't have to be thick or made of some unusual material. Electrical tape will do or even masking tape. However, masking tape will stick tightly and may be difficult to remove from the bands should that become necessary. The Navy used aluminum bands.
 
I finally got around to disassembling my double Al80s today for VIP. They haven't been opened up in ~16 months. They are the 'brushed aluminum' finish.

This picture (cell phone camera :rolleyes:) was taken right after getting the bands off. You can see the galvanic corrosion and plenty of dirt. I got all the white gunky stuff off by scrubbing with white vinegar on both the bands and the tanks, but the black dirt stuff refuses to come off.

Any idea on how to get these things back to being spotless?


If it is any concern, there is no pitting from what I can tell.

doubles_nobands.jpg

I have been diving with Luxfer brushed AL80s for around 7 years now. I have Highland bands on them. My tanks took on the same appearance as yours did in the photograph.

At first, I tried removing the unsightly "bands" by using vinegar and elbow grease. I finally came up with the idea of using maroon Scotch Brite pads that are used in the metal finishing industry. These worked pretty well, and maintained the brushed appearance, as long as I kept the strokes in the same direction as the orginal brush marks.

It took a lot of effort, and there were still faint marks present. However, once I covered the entire tank's surface, they came out looking pretty close to original.

To make a long story short, after two separate times of "refinishing" the tanks, I have decided that it is merely cosmetic in nature and is not a big deal. That being said, I still use the Scotch Brite pad to clean the interior of the bands.

Greg Barlow
 
^ Got a link to those? I want to know exactly what version so I know what to buy. :)
 
The pads Greg spoke of are 3M Scotch Brite hand pads, or the Norton Bear-Tex are quite similar, both are maroon in colour.
 
Hmm...are these the same sort of things you'd use on dishes? I tried to use the same thing I'd use on dishes on my tanks and while it got the galvanic corrosion off, it didn't put a dent in getting the dirt off. Maybe the ones I used just aren't strong enough.
 
Hi Sparticle The 3M Scotch Brite pads your looking for can be found at industrial supply stores, you may find them sold individually at Home Depot not sure. These are 6 X 9 inch pads which can be cut into smaller pieces to suit the work your doing. As Greg explained it's important to use these pads rubbing with the line grain of the finish on your tanks otherwise they will look like you took a grinder to them. These pads are great for cleaning and restoring line grain finishes on aluminum or stainless steel. Try using a 2 X 3 inch piece of these pads and fold them over the edge of a good hand scraper to apply more pressure to your work for better results.
 
Yes, the Scotch Brite finishing pads come in different colors. The color indicates the level of abrasiveness. I purchase mine from auto bodywork supply dealers. You can also use them with warm water. The water will reduce the cutting action somewhat, but will also aid in flushing away the residue.

Greg Barlow
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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